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There may be a way to fab an internal structure to the pylon supports that would allow the whole assy to be removed and set aside for filling. There would be exposed D'zeus type fasteners though and would require tooling to get it it apart. Not ideal, but certainly an option.
 

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Opeler
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With all due respect, I've had 40 years to live with and think about this problem. No, I'm not going to come up with ever more complicated remote fuel filling options. I did that with the fuel filler neck coming out the back of my GTX car and that's even more of a PIA.

My solution will work and look just fine. I'm getting really sick and tired of the non-stop criticism I'm getting from you guys and this project and constantly defending me efforts on it, please move onto other mods I've done to my car that piss you off so that you can permanently piss me off and make me stop posting on this site entirely.,
Dude. You post things on here and ask question or are looking for input & response…but if they vary from what is in your head, then you get upset and hate it. Use this as your build log and lock the comments on it besides what you post if you don’t want outside input. I truly think people are trying to offer up help or alternative ideas to help you and this project move forward and be successful.

Best of luck
 

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Opeler
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Well…this can’t be a good sign.

Believe it or not Gordon, we are all trying to help you out on your ventures, whether you see it or agree with it.
Either way, hope all turns out the way you want it to and it’s a success.

Happy New Year

Eric
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
What the heck is going on here?
I decided that my experimental, design, development, and misstep pics were causing people to make comments and suggest crazy ideas that I didn't welcome or ask for and my subsequent comments showed a side of me that I don't normally show. So I decided to delete my comments and my not-ready-for-primetime pics of projects in the works. I will instead follow in the footsteps of PJ and other modders and just show pics of the finished mods.
 

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BORING, That is what has always set you apart from the others, ( your ability to share) your success with your failures.
And for me, watching the wheels turn in your creative mind is what I admire most. Being able to except a defeat and still figure out a way to turn in into a success is what you do very well.
I was convinced you forgot your meds and this was the adverse affect of such LOL.
But I get it, you've been around these cars almost as long as I've been alive ( not an old joke just a fact)
You have a vision in your mind and that's the goal and you will figure it out as you always do. If it's not attainable then you'll trash the idea and move on.
Moving forward I'll keep my idea's to my self as well, it's just kind of fun because it get's my imagination & creativeness going too.
But if all the extra input and ideas are a bigger distraction than there worth then I can see where the fun has left the building.

AND just for the record I don't think anyone is/was criticizing you.
Like you told me when we first spoke on the phone 3 yrs ago (opinions are like bungholes everyone has one). everyone is not going to like everything you do and there are some who always think they have a better way or a better idea. Not that one way is the only way but their preferred way.
Do as you must but I'll continue to follow your build from the shadows
Happy New Year,
And have a grand day
 

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Über Genius
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Sometimes success is only held back by stubbornness or adherence to preset ideas or opinions.

That is a life lesson I try to teach many.
As it relates to Opels, I told my sons, on many occasions to get a cockamamie idea out of their head because it wasn't going to work. Of course, they didn't listen.
This is why one of my sons called me for help getting his engine out of the top. I've learned with that son, and many people I've met in life, that when they say their idea will work, it's not my job to tell them it won't. I might offer a suggestion or two, or plant a seed of a different idea but there's a point when you just stand back and watch.

There's an interesting thing I've noticed with some people who adhere to a prejudged opinion. The more someone tries to convince them their opinion (even if it's a fact) is not a good one, the more angry they can get. This is SPECIFICALLY why I don't discuss politics, religion, or sexual orientation with others.
 
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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
Okay, NO MORE DISCUSSION ABOUT THIS PLEASE.

Let's move on......

Pop-out Side Window Louvers Update:
So, Don Matlack came by with some fixed window rubber, with the slot for the window chrome, the other day. I fitted the rubber to pop-out window glass, installed the louvers, and we went and test fitted it to the car. It worked! The rubber held the glass and the louvers and it appeared that I could bolt the 2 brackets and the latch to the car and it would work. No problems apparent. So, I needed to order my own rubber and chose to order fixed window rubber without the chrome groove, GT-J rubber, thinking that without the chrome groove it would provide and even firmer grip on the glass and louvers. It arrived yesterday.

Now, the idea here was to have the window rubber stay attached to the glass as it pivoted in and out. Fine and dandy, the test with Don's rubber showed this was possible. But the edge molding that grabs the flange on the window opening and which is bonded to the window rubber wouldn't let the window go all the way in and seal. This is logical, that edge molding is supposed to clip over the window opening flange, but it can't with my repurposing experiment. You also need that edge molding to be on the flange to hold the headliner and upholstery. So my plan was to carefully cut the flange off of the window rubber with a razor blade, and use my belt sander to smooth irregularities where I cut it off, then fit that edge molding onto the flange, then the rubber and louvers onto the glass, and the whole thing should work. So, that's what I did.

Now, fixed window glass is 10mm(3/8") longer, front to rear, than pop-out window glass. When I fitted the GT-J rubber onto the fixed window glass and louvers it was all loose and floppy and the whole assemblage would fall apart. WTF! Everything fit fine using Don's fixed window rubber with the chrome slot. Dammit! That dang rubber is $79 each and I've ruined it and made it unreturnable to exchange for the type with the chrome groove. Schitt! So, I cut a strip off of some plexi I had and fitted it into the rubber to shim that missing length and cut it to 1/2" wide to add extra tightness to the whole assemblage. Okay, that worked, louvers and glass nice and tight. But I've changed the length dynamics of the pop-out glass in relation to the window opening and expected the end with the brackets, where I put the shim, to need some sort of extension or stand off at the brackets to make everything bolt to the car. I test fitted and held the brackets and the latch to the glass and body. Yeah, the holes in the glass ended up 1/2" too far away from the B-pillar. I then checked the latch and the hole in the glass there and......DAMMIT.......the hole was 1/2" too close to the apex of the curve at the back of the glass and window opening. I wouldn't even be able to mount the latch.

So, apparently, I shimmed the wrong end of the glass. I need to put the shimming at the curved, rear, end of the glass, to shift the glass forward 1/2". My shim shifted the glass rearwards. Oh schitt, that's not going to be easy to do. My use of plexi or some metal won't work and stay in place as easily as it did at the straight vertical front edge of the glass.

The louvers came with a flat curved pieces to cover the glass at the rear curved end, which I wasn't going to use because the latch bolt and hole was there. But they gave me an idea: I could use that bolt and hole to hold a piece of sheet metal, that I'll cut 1/2" longer PAST the curved end of the glass, and that should shim the glass and push it forward 1/2" and the 3 bolt holes in the glass for the brackets and the latch will be in just the right spots for the brackets and latch to work and mount normally with no mods needed to mount them. The sheet metal will fit into the window groove in the rubber and tighten up the rubber.

That's tomorrow's project.....


Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Fixture Automotive design Vehicle
Hood Automotive lighting Grille Automotive exterior Vehicle
Light Black Automotive tire Motor vehicle Grey
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive lighting
Road surface Triangle Wood Asphalt Flooring
Asphalt Sleeve Road surface Rectangle Grey
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
I cut, drilled, and painted the extensions for the apex of the glass.

Factory Accuracy Not So Great:
I had chopped the body metal at the back of the window glass off of my old Red Baron car, so that I could maybe reuse the latch mounting metal or use it as a guide for making my own bracket mounts. The pop out window metal of the body is specifically made for pop outs and the apex of the curve at the rear of the glass has a flat spot, with an indentation marking the apex, and the 3 screw holes to mount the bracket. Notice the inaccuracy of where they drilled the bolt holes in this pic. :

Tire Wheel Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire


The one on the right is the passenger side, the one on the left is the driver's side. Notice that the bracket mounting has been skewed upwards in relation to the apex.

BUT, if you look at the pop out window glass, a keen eye will detect that the bolt hole for the latch is 1/16" lower than the center line of the apex:

Motor vehicle Asphalt Rectangle Font Parallel
Ruler Finger Line Rectangle Tape measure


So, if you intuit what you're seeing, the hole in the glass is 1/16" off center LOWER on the glass and the latches have been screwed to the body a very inaccurate 1/4" HIGHER than the center. So, the latches end up pulling slightly UPWARDS on the glass at an angle, in regards to the centerline of the glass.

Weird. Just mentioning it. It doesn't seem to be something to be concerned about.......but maybe it is, I won't know until I get closer to final install. Maybe there's a variance in where the latch is mounted to address a fitment and alignment issue. Or maybe Pierre' at the Brissoneaux body faftory had too many bottles of wine on his lunch break before he screwed the latches onto my Red Baron car.

Here's my black painted glass extensions. I need to order the nylon pop out window replacement bolt hole bushings before I can do final assembly:

Hood Pliers Metalworking hand tool Finger Electrical wiring
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #111 ·
Electric Pop-Up in the Front Headlights
In this video I'm showing the functional completion of a mod to make Opel GT headlights electrically pop-up in the front, instead of manually rolling sideways. I'm using 2.5" LED headlights and I've only got the passenger side working so far. The pop-up function is operated with one switch and the headlights will be turned on by a second switch. There's still some refinement to so and I'll be wrapping the top back and front sides with mirror finish SS sheet metal.



 

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Über Genius
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I won't lie. That's pretty nifty.
All kinds of ways you can dress up the backstage too.
 
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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #117 ·
I could have gotten stronger or faster linear actuators, but "micro" actuators from the company below were the cheapest to gamble on for this experimental mod. PA-7's, 2" throw, 5lbs of force.:


 

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Your Noble Friend ;-)
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This is a nice Gordo-style mod (y)(y)(y)

How do you restrict the "open" position, to adjust the lights to the right height? Is there an adjustable mechanical hard-stop?

Dieter
 
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It would be funny to hook them up on individual switches so you could wink at people starring as you pass o_O
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #120 ·
This is a nice Gordo-style mod (y)(y)(y)

How do you restrict the "open" position, to adjust the lights to the right height? Is there an adjustable mechanical hard-stop?

Dieter

The linear actuator and where I position it sets the height. It has 2" of movement, retracted it closes the headlights to sit on bumpers, and when fully extended it lifts the headlights 4" at the front. The "bumpers" are the shafts at the front of the headlight openings that the headlights used to pivot on, they have rubber hoses slid onto them. The LED headlights are 2.5" in diameter and had to be set back so as not to hit the bumpers when closed. Otherwise I would have mounted them farther forward.
 
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