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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Lots of Progress and Fun!
Critical parts to finish my mods arrived this week and I've had lots of fun, considering it's cold as schitt outside with snow here and there. I already showed pics of the headlight mod moving towards completion. A bunch of firewall insulation and sound deadener stuff arrived, so I was able to insulate behind the dash and along the tunnel against heat, plus sound deadening. This needed to get done before I could mount my heater and install the dash panels. I also used some of the stuff to insulate/sound deaden the roof, so now I can install my headliner, so I can finish my upholstery and install the windows. AND the surprisingly hard to find special length countersunk M8 bolts I needed to finish my tilt up wing mod arrived, so I was able to mount my wing. Wow, it works and looks great! The hinge is nice and stiff and stands up on it's own with no rattling. Some velcro or magnets or both will hold it down. I needed to remove that pesky parking brake lever 'cuz automatic dudes don't need'em and it gets in the way of my center console mods. That made me go under the car for one of the first times and while there I was reminded why I bought this F'd up car: It has ZERO rust or any greasy, yucky, oil on the floorboards! The oem yellow is plain to see, the black you see is from when it was a black gullwing, plus there's primer overspray from it's recent paint job. It will be a cinch to paint the underside with some sort of sealer like POR15 or something else. Wheeeeeee! I'm having fun!

😀


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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
No, I don't see any qualities about that stuff that would make me want to use it.

Most likely I'll choose silver POR15. I like the metallic look of silver engine, drivetrain, and axles, so why not paint the whole bottom with the silver version of the stuff for a unified look. I've had excellent performance from the black POR15 on my other car, so I might as well stick with it.
 

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No, I don't see any qualities about that stuff that would make me want to use it.

Most likely I'll choose silver POR15. I like the metallic look of silver engine, drivetrain, and axles, so why not paint the whole bottom with the silver version of the stuff for a unified look. I've had excellent performance from the black POR15 on my other car, so I might as well stick with it.
Just wanted to jump in in case your not completely impressed with how the Por-15 spreads, I wanted to share my DIY experience with a similar product. I remember you complimented one of the under the hood pictures I had before so the moment caught my eye here.

I was just going to use the automotive Rust Bullet for a primer so I could paint my engine compartment white. What I found is that it spread and covered twice as well as the white finish coating. I was so happy with the look that I changed my mind on the engine bay color. They recommend two coats but it covered so well with the first coat I didn’t need to re coat most of the engine bay. That stuff spread and covered like a dream. I wouldn’t hesitate to do the underside if I can ever find the time or when the need becomes important to do so. Just rough up the painted surfaces, knock off all the loose rust and use the Metal Blast product for prep, I’ve got the rag soaked with it in the top picture for, of course the battery tray.
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To the best of my memory I learned about Rust Bullet reading an older RBob post and he had a really good things to say about it. I don’t recommend their top coat paints but I was really pleased with this one and it’s holding up very well, no chipping etc.

I’ve never tried Por-15 but have also heard good things about it. Looking forward to seeing how it comes out. Very nice job so far with the prep work!
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #126 · (Edited)
Oh, I'm not poo-pooing the idea, it just didn't seem to have the rust inhibiting qualities I want as my primary concern. Maybe I'm wrong and it would be good to use. I saw the "anti-skid" and "textured" description and immediately dismissed it. I'll have to read the ad more closely.

P.S. Throw that useless fiberglass firewall stuff from OGTS away, it's crapp. Buy some self-adhesive foamed butyl rubber with foil stuff instead. You get a lot more of it(40"x80") and you can use it to cover a much larger area in the engine and tunnel vicinity as a heat and sound shield and you can also use the stuff throughout the car for insulation and sound deadening. This stuff:

 

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Not trying to be a party pooper here but this product IMHO wouldn't be a candidate for exterior use or exterior side of the firewall.
2) Can be used for the entire interior of any vehicle including: floor panel, door, carpet under/seat, headliner/roof, trunk, trunk lid, firewall (internal side).
Temperature Rating: 200 Degrees nominal
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
On the subject of putting self adhesive stuff on the floorboards:

I am not a believer in putting various types of self adhesive stuff, like Dynamat or the sound deadener/insulation that you see in my pics and linked to above, on floorboard areas. Vertical areas, yeah, but not the floorboards or under the fuel tank. Here's why:

When my GTX car came to me, the PO had coated the entire interior with Dynamat. I mean the ENTIRE interior. Doors, roof, floorboards, center console, rocker panels, etc. He also sprayed Great Stuff household foam into all the hollow cavities in the back of the car. It took me 6 weeks, working every day, to scrape it all out. The car was rust free EXTERNALLY, perfect floorboards under the car, no rocker rust, perfect, and came from Washington State. As I started to remove the Dynamat I found all sorts of rust under it. Water was apparently condensing on the metal and flowing to air cavities under the mat. Even vertical areas like the doors. This car had been kept indoors in a garage for 18 years, stripped to just a shell, painted only in primer, with no parts or windows in it. The exterior of the car was perfect after 18 years, the interior had hundreds of rust spots forming under the Dynamat. I had to paint the entire interior with POR15 to block any further progression of the rust. When I put it together, I used house carpet padding on the floors, with dense rubber conveyor belt mats under the carpet and the additional decorative mats. I wanted my floor to breath and any moisture be able to evaporate. My sound deadening efforts worked VERY well. I can't hear my engine when it's running and I can barely here my loud exhaust. My ass-kickin', heavy metal-playing, stereo doesn't cause any buzzing or vibration sounds in the car.

Recently, Don Matlack, here in New Jersey received a car from OU, in the same shipment as I got my gullwing/Banana car. It also was rust free and had Dynamat all over the interior. He also discovered rust under the Dynamat at the floorboards, specifically where air pockets formed. He also had to spend weeks getting the stuff off and decided to paint the whole interior with an epoxy-based industrial sealer.

You'll notice that I have black mats over my floorboards. That's to hide the fact that I did NOT put that self adhesive insulation/sound deadener on the floors. I did not want to repeat what I found in my GTX and Don's car. Opels come from the factory with a heavy, dense, rubber stuff on the floor boards. My Banana car had that stuff on the floor, too. My Banana car has no rust on the bottom of the floorboards. Guess what I found under that rubber stuff from the factory? RUST. Just at the lowest points of the floorboards. My Banana car was stored indoors in OU's showroom for at least 20 years and a few years outdoors in their desert heat. So, that's 3 cars that I'm personally experienced with and all 3 had rust under the stuff that was adhered to the floorboards.

Okay, so the household carpet padding I used on my GTX car was pretty cheesy, but it worked! 10 years now. I've pulled my carpets up for various reason over recent years and the floor is as perfect as when I painted it with the POR15. I'm not going to put household carpet padding in my Banana car, but I did see that OGTS offers the hair-like carpet padding that oem GT's come with. That hairy stuff should breath pretty good and will provide a buffer between my hard conveyor belt stuff, which might scrub at the paint on the floor over time. I ordered a bunch of the stuff and it should arrive this coming week.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
Now that I got my insulation/sound deadener stuff installed behind the dash, I was able to bolt the heater in place. While I was at it I made a diamond plate cover for the old oem heater hole. I now have to take measurements and order flexible coolant lines of the right length to run from the heater, through the patch plate, and into the engine compartment.

Next I fitted the glove box panel and instrument panels. This took freakin' forever and fought me tooth and nail the whole way. This is because my dash ended up 2" too wide and 1" too high in the center because the mock up firewall from my old Red Baron car somehow ended up too wide after I patched it back together after cutting it down the center to get it home in my SUV. The 1" too high in the center was entirely my fault and a week or so ago I had shortened it's center supports by 1". These sizing problems caused all sorts of fitment problems, gaps, and tightness issues. Oh well, that's the beauty of my custom dashes: I can always remake and redo stuff that doesn't work out.

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
Dashectomy in Progress

I called in the dash specialist(Me) and after examining the patient the only recourse to do things properly would be to perform a Dashectomy.

And I thought I would also show how I will have to work on the car most of this Winter when there's snow or rain outside. On days with no precipitation or snow on the ground I can roll the GTX out of the garage and lower the lift to work on the Banana. On the elevated lift, there's only 4" of clearance between the roof and the ceiling and I can't open the hood or doors, that's why I haven't put the doors on. I had to buy a special ladder specifically to get to the car on the lift.


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The Young One
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Dashectomy in Progress

I called in the dash specialist(Me) and after examining the patient the only recourse to do things properly would be to perform a Dashectomy.

And I thought I would also show how I will have to work on the car most of this Winter when there's snow or rain outside. On days with no precipitation or snow on the ground I can roll the GTX out of the garage and lower the lift to work on the Banana. On the elevated lift, there's only 4" of clearance between the roof and the ceiling and I can't open the hood or doors, that's why I haven't put the doors on. I had to buy a special ladder specifically to get to the car on the lift.


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Why not just but the banana on the ground and the gtx on the lift? Would that give you anymore room?
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
If the Banana is under the lift I can't lift the hood or do any engine work. I've got some under the car work to do, also. It's a weird 100 year old garage that's really shallow and narrow and the other half is my neighbor's side, but we share one peaked roof, so the whole ceiling is on an angle that barely let's me fit two 48" high GT's in it.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
Gosh, I scare myself with how fast I can do this stuff. It turns out that my side floor vents were causing a big part of the problem and my shortening had caused them to be too low and pinched between the panel and the tunnel, pushing the panel out. Also the panel was being pushed out by the shape of the sides of the tunnel. My angle grinder with a cut off wheel did all the dirty work. I peeled back the upholstery and cut 2" off the bottom of each panel and the gold colored strip hinge vertical support, then cut new holes for the vents to be mounted much higher up. I whipped out the Goop adhesive and the C-clamps and done! We'll see how it worked out tomorrow.......


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You are a man possessed by the spirit of Opel. I still think you have to be working in your sleep to get all of it done. I know you were worried about being bored being retired but I'm sure you have days where you wonder what that work thing was all about. Great work as always. So when you get this done in a couple of weeks, what are you going to do next?
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
Ha! Ha! Well, it won't be done in a few weeks, but maybe by mid-Spring. Even that is optimistic.

I didn't retire because I was sick of working, just sick of working at the PO, plus I had vision and wrist issues. I got the vision thing fixed, but my right arm is toast. It's amazing that I had to wear glasses for the past 15 years and now I don't need them at all. Just two 15 minute cataracts and lens replacement surgeries and my eyes are almost new. But the wrist thing can't really be fixed and it gives me nerve spaz-outs that affect my whole arm. I might also have a rotater cuff or something issue. Other than that, I'm healthy as a horse. But the writing was on the wall and my money situation should keep me afloat until it's time to feed the worms.

It's funny, I absolutely didn't want another car project and wasn't looking for one. A gullwing was the only car in the world I would have wanted to come out of retirement and fix up. Little did I know what a clusterfluff that car was. By then, the boredom of retirement and pandemic lock down had really set in and it turned out that the enormous amount of work and money to turn this car around and make something special in an entirely different way than a gullwing turned out to be a blessing in disguise. I'm having BIG fun conquering the big challenges this car presented me with and the modification possibilities I threw into the mix. I don't regret the purchase at all now.

:)

The reconfigured panels came out........okay. Not great, the upholstery is a little irregular at the bottom. I would have to do a full reupholstering to make them great. I could always do that in a jiffy at a later date if they piss me off. The flaws are at the bottom where they can barely be seen.

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