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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #181 ·
The wing is normally hard bolted to the car and to look proper it should be mounted pushed back so that it's rear edge is parallel to the angled tail panel of the car. This makes it impossible to put a fuel nozzle into the filler neck and you have to slide a rubber hose onto the fuel nozzle to extend it. If it was on a hinge, so that you could tilt it forward, this problem would go away. That's what I'm trying to do. It's a 40 year old one-of-a-kind kit, so it has value in unmolested condition. I'm trying to do this mod without drilling or modding or doing fiberglass work to the wing. If it was just a plain old Lenk wing, which I have 2 of already, I could go wild with mods like latches, pins, and other holding devices.

I tried magnets and didn't like what I discovered working with them. Velcro is a soft way to get it done. They make all sorts of high tech velcro for harsh environments and I have a lot of experience with all of them and using velcro will definitely have enough strength and not come loose or degrade. If the velcro idea doesn't work, I can just peel the stuff off and try another idea. If other ideas fail, then I'll throw in the towel and just hard bolt the wing to the car as it was designed to be and go back to using a rubber hose to fill up. The anchored nuts in the wing are starting to wear out from bolting and unbolting all the nut and bolt and magnet ideas I've tried.

I've already got this idea worked out, I don't really need any further input. I can't move forward until the car comes back to me from the body shop and I can install the wing feet to the car. I will then use bolts and velcro to construct the mounting of the wing feet to the car, the hinge attachment to the feet, the wing attachment to the hinge, and velcro to keep it "closed" and still be able to tilt it up and forward so that the tank can be filled easily. I'll only need to lift the wing about 20 times a year for fill ups and top offs of the tank.
 

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oh oh ok For some reason I was under the misconception that the filler neck was to be relocated to the rear above the license plate.
My apologies for the unnecessary dribble of mine.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #183 ·
I bought a hood window for the leftover Lenk hood from my Red Baron car that I'll be putting on the Banana. This hood had the oem hood latch and reinforcement structure from an oem hood swapped onto it. That made part of that structure visible through the window, so I chopped out the area between the hood latches. This window is intended to be installed from underneath and held in place with gasket sealer. I don't think that's a good idea. The window matches the front/rear and side to side curvature of the hood perfectly, so I will install it by just laying it on top with emblem tape, plus a couple of rivets. I just have to sand some edges and it's ready to go to the body shop for painting with the rest of the car.

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Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Fluid
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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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Very cool Gordon - takes a big set to cut into a hood like that - I don't think I could do it. As always good luck with the project.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #186 ·
Ha! It helped that I had cut one of these hoods before and built up confidence that I could pull it off. 😀
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #187 ·
Rear Disc Brake Install on and Early C-clip Style Rear Axle

So, this past week's other project was the install rear brakes on a 3:18 rear axle. That gear ratio lowers my automatic's rpms at 80mph by about 500rpm to 4000. I had one of Keith Lundholm's rear disc kits that I had bought for the '75 Sportswagen project I aborted. But it's a later style "nutted" axle type and there's a different hole pattern and a diameter difference, so you can't use bracket's made for later axles. No one makes them, so I had to make my own. Luckily I saved a template from when I did this same mod on my GTX car's identical axle. When I first did this I was working with Gary on the project and we used a 4.25" rotors, I think from a Chrylser, with a depth/height that was more favorable than what I have from Keith, which requires a spacer. Plus my brackets are made for those rotors' size. I just have to hog out the stud holes a little(shown in one of the pics below) to make them fit on our 4x100mm bolt patterns. I needed to pause this project and order those rotors, so I did the hood project today instead. Pics are of the rotors from my previous install and the bracket template, and pics of my progress so far on the new axle.


Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle brake


Holes elongated

Automotive tire Vehicle brake Rim Gas Circle


Making the brackets

Handwriting Font Sketch pad Wood Pattern
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Painted

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Über Genius
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FWIW, I have both styles of disk brake plates. Made out of stainless. At one point I was going to make them and offer to the community.
 

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I want to see the custom socket to get on those bolts LOL no really
Any way WOW get after it Gordon
 

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Your Noble Friend ;-)
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The wing is normally hard bolted to the car and to look proper it should be mounted pushed back so that it's rear edge is parallel to the angled tail panel of the car. This makes it impossible to put a fuel nozzle into the filler neck and you have to slide a rubber hose onto the fuel nozzle to extend it. If it was on a hinge, so that you could tilt it forward, this problem would go away. That's what I'm trying to do. It's a 40 year old one-of-a-kind kit, so it has value in unmolested condition. I'm trying to do this mod without drilling or modding or doing fiberglass work to the wing. If it was just a plain old Lenk wing, which I have 2 of already, I could go wild with mods like latches, pins, and other holding devices.

I tried magnets and didn't like what I discovered working with them. Velcro is a soft way to get it done. They make all sorts of high tech velcro for harsh environments and I have a lot of experience with all of them and using velcro will definitely have enough strength and not come loose or degrade. If the velcro idea doesn't work, I can just peel the stuff off and try another idea. If other ideas fail, then I'll throw in the towel and just hard bolt the wing to the car as it was designed to be and go back to using a rubber hose to fill up. The anchored nuts in the wing are starting to wear out from bolting and unbolting all the nut and bolt and magnet ideas I've tried.

I've already got this idea worked out, I don't really need any further input. I can't move forward until the car comes back to me from the body shop and I can install the wing feet to the car. I will then use bolts and velcro to construct the mounting of the wing feet to the car, the hinge attachment to the feet, the wing attachment to the hinge, and velcro to keep it "closed" and still be able to tilt it up and forward so that the tank can be filled easily. I'll only need to lift the wing about 20 times a year for fill ups and top offs of the tank.
Use a couple of electric linear actuators in combination with a hinge, to rotate the wing if needed.
  • locked in place in all positions
  • enough force for fast driving
  • coolness factor ...

Dieter
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #192 ·
Use a couple of electric linear actuators in combination with a hinge, to rotate the wing if needed.
  • locked in place in all positions
  • enough force for fast driving
  • coolness factor ...

Dieter
Well, it's an idea I hadn't considered, but I'll think about it. I've been looking at linear actuators lately and it's hard to find very short ones.
 

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Your Noble Friend ;-)
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Well, it's an idea I hadn't considered, but I'll think about it. I've been looking at linear actuators lately and it's hard to find very short ones.
They start at 4" stroke, hundreds of them all over ebay. Make sure that they are in the inside, with only a rod extension coming out of the body. Water kills them within one rainfall.

Dieter
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #194 ·
Today I took another crack at getting the disc brake kit to work and came to the conclusion that the calipers and rotors from Keith's later style axle kit just won't work with the early style adapters I had made and other factors. There's nothing wrong with his kit, I just failed to make it work on the type of axle it wasn't designed for.

So I decided the best solution was to go out and buy the rotors and calipers that I used when I did this mod before. I know my adapters will work and don't require spacers and that I just have to file the rotor stud holes 1/8" towards the center to make the 4x4.25" hole pattern work with the Opel 4x100mm stud pattern.

The stuff will arrive on Tuesday.
 

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I just have to file the rotor stud holes 1/8" towards the center to make the 4x4.25" hole pattern work with the Opel 4x100mm stud pattern.
I know you have done this before but somehow it goes against my engineering background, I just can't put my finger on why.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #196 ·
It's only 1/8" off each mounting hole of a small 10" circle(rotor). Small inaccuracies even out since they are going in 4 different directions. I do each hole a little bit at a time and test fit back and forth until it slips tightly on.
 

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I know you have done this before but somehow it goes against my engineering background, I just can't put my finger on why.
It goes against mine as well. If the rotors are working as "hub-centric", in that the hub bore matches perfectly to the hub, then I am less fussed. But in the case of wheels that are meant to be "lug-centric" then this is a bad idea
 

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It goes against mine as well. If the rotors are working as "hub-centric", in that the hub bore matches perfectly to the hub, then I am less fussed. But in the case of wheels that are meant to be "lug-centric" then this is a bad idea
Well they are hub centric but it still seems wrong. If a small amount of bending is imparted to the studs they could eventually fail due to work hardening.
 

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Über Genius
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Well they are hub centric but it still seems wrong. If a small amount of bending is imparted to the studs they could eventually fail due to work hardening.
The stress is on the center bore. The lug holes only have to incorporate facial strength. They don't center the disk at all.

I did try to make some Cragar SS wheels into unilugs back when I was 16.
Even though I use a milling machine and got them as close as possible, they failed. I broke 4 out of 5 lugs on one wheel within 500 miles.
 

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The stress is on the center bore. The lug holes only have to incorporate facial strength. They don't center the disk at all.

I did try to make some Cragar SS wheels into unilugs back when I was 16.
Even though I use a milling machine and got them as close as possible, they failed. I broke 4 out of 5 lugs on one wheel within 500 miles.
The lugs resist the torque when accelerating or braking. If the elongated holes act as cams then bending force rather than pure shear is introduced into the system.
 
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