Opel GT Forum banner
161 - 180 of 213 Posts

·
Über Genius
Joined
·
9,460 Posts
What about strong magnets?

Karl
I would vote magnets also. Velcro will have a certain amount of flex that could cause the hinge to wear. Also, velcro would trap moisture and could cause some rotting effect.

Remember that not all magnets are created equal. An N50 magnet is much stronger than an N35. I wouldn't waste money on an N35 for this application.

One click Ebay search for you
 

·
Just Some Dude in Jersey
Joined
·
15,466 Posts
Discussion Starter · #162 ·
I did some more work on countersinking, shimming, and alignments and now there's no more gap between the back side of the feet where they meet the wing. Keep in mind that I'm showing you extreme close-ups of stuff that is 3 feet off the ground and 1"-3" from the surface of the rear deck and under a big wing. Yes, you can see my shims and bolt heads in the pics, but when just casually walking by the wing you can't see any of that stuff. Obviously, if you are going to add hinges between a wing and it's feet you are going to increase the gap between them. Keep in mind that I'm trying to not alter the wing and it's feet in any way by drilling holes for hood pins, latches, and other ways of mounting the hinge. It's all reversible, in case the whole idea doesn't work out and I have to go back to it all being hard bolted to the car. Here's a pic showing the closed gap at the back:

437567


So, some folks suggested magnets to keep the wing "closed". Charlie found these and I ordered a set. They are 5mm thick, just under 1/4".:

https://www.amazon.com/DIYMAG-Neodymium-Countersunk-Magnets-Permanent/dp/B071ZKQ2X5?hvadid=80607998012508&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584207577495032&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=goinmanta-20&linkId=0598aa2fcd27eba3b8261c96cbe24590&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl&fbclid=IwAR1meG7PuJLBTLDahrKgpBlkzj7-H5EUKC46gT8LoD35RD2QkQuZjlDN7Jc

30lbs of holding force ought to be more than enough. My shimming and stuff has left a gap of about 5mm between the forward surface of the wing feet and the wing, so I should be able fit them between the wing and the feet with minimal change to the gap at the back.:

437568
 

·
Über Genius
Joined
·
9,460 Posts
Those screws that come with the magnets might not hold well with the fiberglass.

BTW, I'm a magnet guy. I have, realistically, over 10,000 magnets in my house that I play with. They're everywhere.
 
  • Like
Reactions: The Scifi Guy

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,475 Posts
Man you are one creative son of a gun Gordon I truly enjoy watching the stuff you come up with and do
Keep it up.
The minds a terrible thing LOL
 

·
Just Some Dude in Jersey
Joined
·
15,466 Posts
Discussion Starter · #165 ·
Those screws that come with the magnets might not hold well with the fiberglass.

BTW, I'm a magnet guy. I have, realistically, over 10,000 magnets in my house that I play with. They're everywhere.

The magnets being too strong and the suggestion to only install one was brought up by Charlie, to which I replied:

<<< The plan is to bolt one magnet to each of the rear wing holes and countersink the bolts going into the rear foot holes. With luck, although the bolt heads are smaller in diameter, the magnets should stick to the bolt heads and keep the wing down. The bolt heads are about .6" in diameter and the magnets are 1.25". Less bolt head surface area = less magnetic attraction, so the cumulative 60lbs of magnet strength from both magnets should be roughly cut in half. We'll see, as you well know, just because it works out on paper doesn't mean it will stand the test of the real world. My options are open, I'll try the magnets and if they work well, then project done. If not, try something else. >>>

I could also add small areas of velcro to supplement the magnets if they prove to not be strong enough. There's plenty of flexibility in the concept and it's too soon to make guesses, let's just wait for the magnets to get here and I install them and see how it goes. :)
 

·
Über Genius
Joined
·
9,460 Posts
The magnetic force will come in near 5-7 pounds based on what you just said. That might be about right if you're using one on each side.
You could always add a custom washer to expand the area of attraction if it's not enough.
 
  • Like
Reactions: The Scifi Guy

·
Just Some Dude in Jersey
Joined
·
15,466 Posts
Discussion Starter · #167 ·
Hood window for Lenk LT10 hoods

I just bought one of the hood windows pictured below for my project car. I have an LT10 hood with the metal framework swapped over and I already have a similar hood window on my GTX car. The one on the GTX was made by Power Portal in New Jersey and they don't make them anymore. That type came with upper and lower mirror polished stainless frames. This new hood window does not come with a stainless frame, I'll have to cut a hole in the hood and try to dress up the edges. It's supposed to mount from underneath, but I may be able to cover the cut edges if I put it on from the top. There IS a stainless LED frame you can buy for these Corvette ZR1 style inserts, but they're fantastically expensive. This window-only costs $110. Search Ebay or Amazon for "Corvette hood window". Probably the single best mod I've done to my GT's.

437576
437578
437579
437580
437582
437583
 

·
Just Some Dude in Jersey
Joined
·
15,466 Posts
Discussion Starter · #168 ·
My freshly powder-coated valve cover. Why didn't I chrome it you ask? Because my engine is a 2.4 and the cover is for a 2.2. Also, the chroming companies are so backed up with work that it might take 6 months for them to get it back to me and charge me $300+. Sand blasting off the nasty corrosion and powder-coating it only cost me $80. No, I'm not painting the engine yellow also. It will be silver with lots of chromy stuff around it.


437589
437590
 

·
Just Some Dude in Jersey
Joined
·
15,466 Posts
Discussion Starter · #169 ·
I'm going with velcro.

The magnets came today. They were ferociously strong. I couldn't pull the top one off of the stack, I had to pry it off with a knife. I stuck one to the bolt head it needed to grab and was underwhelmed with one magnet's worth of strength, so I would need to use two, one on each foot. But they needed the center hole enlarged to 6mm and the countersink in them needed to be much deeper. I MELTED and destroyed multiple drill bits trying to accomplish this. Okay, they're harder than tool steel, I'll use stone grinding bits, they're made out of ROCKS. Not much progress and then........SPLIT! The magnet split in two. I didn't like all this and the fitment and adhesion disappointed me.

So, I went to the hardware store to look at their velcro offerings. I have a LOT of experience with velcro in challenging environments. Just about all my biking and kayaking stuff I used over 40 years had some form of velcro somewhere. Water, mud, heat, etc. the good stuff works forever. The ACE hardware had velcro with 5, 10, and 15lb strengths, plus types made for outdoor and automotive use. I bought an outdoor type. I'm sure it will work out just fine.

The biggest issue is whether the strength of the velcro's adhesive back and the strength of the velcro itself will pull the paint off. That's okay. If the paint on the top of the foot and where it contacts the wing pulls off, there's still the gel coat of the fiberglass to hold the peel and stick velcro. If need be I could add metl plates to stick the velcro to.

So, I'm going to call this mod done. There's no point in sticking the velcro on now before the wing gets painted, I can put small pieces on the wing after it's painted and on the car to see what the smallest amount of velcro that is needed to get the job done.

437594
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,942 Posts
Gordon, I have a big box of industrial strength screw-on plastic ‘Velcro’ circles. You can have as many as you need.
 
  • Like
Reactions: The Scifi Guy

·
Vendor
Joined
·
3,023 Posts
This still might be the simplest solution (engineering-wise, anyway) Not sure how much torque you would need to keep it in place, but 5-6 inch-pounds seems like a pretty tight spring.
 

·
Registered
1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
Joined
·
789 Posts
I'm going with velcro.

The magnets came today. They were ferociously strong. I couldn't pull the top one off of the stack, I had to pry it off with a knife. I stuck one to the bolt head it needed to grab and was underwhelmed with one magnet's worth of strength, so I would need to use two, one on each foot. But they needed the center hole enlarged to 6mm and the countersink in them needed to be much deeper. I MELTED and destroyed multiple drill bits trying to accomplish this. Okay, they're harder than tool steel, I'll use stone grinding bits, they're made out of ROCKS. Not much progress and then........SPLIT! The magnet split in two. I didn't like all this and the fitment and adhesion disappointed me.

So, I went to the hardware store to look at their velcro offerings. I have a LOT of experience with velcro in challenging environments. Just about all my biking and kayaking stuff I used over 40 years had some form of velcro somewhere. Water, mud, heat, etc. the good stuff works forever. The ACE hardware had velcro with 5, 10, and 15lb strengths, plus types made for outdoor and automotive use. I bought an outdoor type. I'm sure it will work out just fine.

The biggest issue is whether the strength of the velcro's adhesive back and the strength of the velcro itself will pull the paint off. That's okay. If the paint on the top of the foot and where it contacts the wing pulls off, there's still the gel coat of the fiberglass to hold the peel and stick velcro. If need be I could add metl plates to stick the velcro to.

So, I'm going to call this mod done. There's no point in sticking the velcro on now before the wing gets painted, I can put small pieces on the wing after it's painted and on the car to see what the smallest amount of velcro that is needed to get the job done.

View attachment 437594
My freshly powder-coated valve cover. Why didn't I chrome it you ask? Because my engine is a 2.4 and the cover is for a 2.2. Also, the chroming companies are so backed up with work that it might take 6 months for them to get it back to me and charge me $300+. Sand blasting off the nasty corrosion and powder-coating it only cost me $80. No, I'm not painting the engine yellow also. It will be silver with lots of chromy stuff around it.


View attachment 437589 View attachment 437590
They did a really good job.....really nice looking valve cover which will pull your color palette more together under the hood even more. Mustard and Ketchup comes to mind, makes me hungry just thinking about it. Again looking forward to the finished project.
 

·
Just Some Dude in Jersey
Joined
·
15,466 Posts
Discussion Starter · #174 ·
From Facebook:

UPDATE: How to install Pontiac Solstice/Saturn Sky/New Opel GT side view mirrors on an Old Opel GT

First, you really need a bench top belt sander with metal grade paper or a bench top grinder or a portable angle grinder. Remove the bolts/studs and fit the mirror to the car as high as possible where the door skin is fairly flat. Try to position it to cover old mirror bolt holes. Position it so that the opening where the mirror is is roughly perpendicular to the ground. You'll notice that the mounting bolt chassis sticks out and touches the door skin before the foot does, particularly at one of the bolt holes. Grind some of that part of the chassis off and test fit again. Do this over and over again, but try to leave at 2-3 threads of the bolting chassis still there at that one bad bolt hole. You will probably have to grind a bit off of one of the other bolt holes. While you are doing this you will also grind a bit of the foot off where it's curve doesn't match the car. You will NOT be able to grind enough off for perfection, you will have a few areas of the foot that are still 1/4" away from the body. Put the bolts back in, position the mirror as far forward on the door as you can, and mark your bolt holes. I think the bolts are 4 or 5mm. Drill holes of the appropriate size. Now look inside the door and realize that those bolt holes in the door skin are almost impossible to get at to install nuts on the original mirror studs. You may find it easier to install your own bolts to screw into the mirror chassis. You may find it easier to use a small hole saw or a big drill bit to make access holes in the inner door skin. You'll need to find some sort of 1/2" thick foamy black stuff to make a gasket. Industrial floor mats are a good material for this.

At this point you are modifying like a muthafluffa. The above is how I installed these mirrors the first time. I might do it differently this time around. The best solution would be to make the foot of the mirror stick down farther, so that you don't have to grind off the bolting chassis. You could slip a rubber collar around the foot where it meets the door to hide the inaccuracies. You could make a foot "extension" out of wood that conforms to the car and the foot and fit's perfectly, then paint it to match or go with black. The bolting chassis is held in place by clips, but I can't get it out, the round pivot thing in the center must be stopping it from coming out and I can't figure how to get it out. I don't want to break the mirror to find out. I made this mod work and look "good enough" the first time, so I'm going to do what I did the first time.

P.S. I may make an attempt at making a wood foot extension that conforms to the car and the mirror foot. I am fundamentally a woodworker at heart and I have sanders and stuff to do it. My car is still at the Maaco and unpainted, now is the perfect time to try to make wooden feet/adapters and have them painted to match. I did something similar when making the feet for the wing I put on my GT trailer "Das Boot". The booger is that I'll have to bring all my tools and grinding equipment to the Maaco and do the work in their shop.


437620
437621
437622
437623
437624
437625
 

·
Just Some Dude in Jersey
Joined
·
15,466 Posts
Discussion Starter · #175 ·
From Facebook:

Update to my side mirror update

I removed the studs/bolts and ground off the positioning posts, then went out to my GTX car to try to re-envision the mods I did 6 years ago to make them fit. As it turns out, it was easy and I'm virtually done fitting them. I just have to grind a little off one bolt hole on the bolting chassis and maybe take a little off the bottom of the feet. Solstice doors are convex, whereas GT doors are concave AT THE TOP. GT doors DO become convex lower down on the door, but then the mirror might be too low. The concave shape at the top of the door helps absorb part of the bolting chassis that sticks out. As long as you can wrap your mind around using a thick 1/2" gasket to hide this irregularity, you can fit these mirrors.

Well, gosh, it was no trouble at all to shape the mirrors to fit, I was all done in about 20 minutes, but I remember that they were a PIA to install. It's the bolting to the door that's a PIA. You have to mount them really high, like 1/2" below the windowsill. That's a tough area to access. That's why I mentioned hole saws and drilling access holes into the inner door skin to get at the bolts to tighten the nuts onto them. No biggee. Just be prepared to cuss your face off and make sure no kids are around to hear you do all that cussing.
🤪



437626
437627
437628
437629
437630
437631
437632
437633
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,475 Posts
Gordon is there no way to mount/glue the magnets for the wing from inside the mounts or where you want them to make contact/connect?
After looking again at the pick I don't see that possible.
BUT I did find this for you to check out. these might be better suited for what your after.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,475 Posts
And here's another
 

·
Just Some Dude in Jersey
Joined
·
15,466 Posts
Discussion Starter · #178 ·
Unfortunately, the various dimensions and construction of the wing and it's feet dictate the possibilities of what can be done. I can't or don't want to alter the wing and it's feet. I'm locked into a 5/16" bolt and tube size. The wing was never meant to be on a hinge and clearances weren't made for that. It can't fall off or ever fail. Doing this mod has got to make the wing work better, not worse, and be highly functional, while simultaneously not having a massive hinge assembly underneath of it.

You'd have to be here working with it to understand how little you can do.

The velcro will work just fine.
 

·
Opeler
Joined
·
1,319 Posts
I would take magnets that arent as strong, grind them down to fit the shapes of both areas and then adhesive them on. Fill in the gaps and paint the wing. Nobody will ever know the magnets are there. No counter sinking them in or anything.

Karl
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,475 Posts
and be highly functional,
Have I missed something in this thread?
If there is purpose for the wing to swing or move in a up/down motion why not scrap the whole hinge and magnet/Velcro and work with an electronic strut type of deal similar to the Porsches and there operable spoiler?
I apologize ahead of time if I'm completely off
Just trying to help with your creative goals
 
161 - 180 of 213 Posts
Top