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I thought you would call the agency that provided nationality appropriate support staff at Carlise and hire a couple for the car shows. Your trophy count should surely go up among other things.
 

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Opeler
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Colorado has a similar restriction, to title an out of state car, a VIN verification must be completed. To do that, the car has to be present in Colorado.
Luckily, I live in a small town and the local PD will do VIN verification's for free for town residents. They will even do house calls! I haven't tried this yet but plan to do it for my recently acquired '75 1900. Instead of trailering to the PD for inspection, i can make an appointment and they will come to my house. Can't ask for an easier process than that!
MO has a similar process. When I got my car from CO, I had to get a form signed by a LEO. I called the County Police department, and they sent a cop over. He checked the VIN (I guess to make sure it hadn't been reported stolen), and I was good to go. Took that form, CO title and a check and they sent me a new MO title in my name.
 

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It looks great!

The lift mechanism is surprisingly not awful. I suppose this is obvious, but I suppose it must lower the headliner a bit in the car to accommodate the thickness of more than just sheet steel and a scrawny rib that was there before.

I'm excited for you to get it and start working on it.

I want one!
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #105 (Edited)
Todd has more pictures that he has to send me. I talked with him a fair bit today. There are some serious metal bars in the doors to reinforce them. If you look closely at the pics you'll see some big changes to the door area of the car. The rockers are taller, so the doors are shorter at the bottom. Does this mean that the window glass has been shortened? Also, observe what was done at the front of the door. You can barely see it in the pic of my car, but you CAN see it really well on the silver/blue car below, which is this mod's designer's car. The "box" of the door has been cut back about 4"-5", but the outer skin of the door remains the same. And the metal of the body in that area has been extended rearwards the same 4"-5". That's where the oem hinges mounted to. Obviously they weren't needed anymore. I don't know why it was felt necessary to cut back and extend things, when simply removing the hinges was all that was needed. Maybe it was for weight reduction and to aid in the stiffening of the door.

My goodness, when you start to consider the things that were needed to be done to accomplish this mod, it makes constructing a targa or a full convertible seem easy!

Wheeeee! I'm going to have FUN!!!! :love:

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #106
Coming up with a headliner will be a fun challenge. Obviously it won't be able to extend over where the door hinges and struts are. I'll have to get creative. After talking with Charlie about it, he jokingly said I out to make a chrome/mirror stainless interior and dash. Okay, that's a little crazy.........but not totally crazy. I do plan on a white/beige interior......hmmmmm........it WILL be a show car.......hmmmm.......howsabout I mix mirror stainless with beige vinyl? I could do the flat lower portions of the door panels and areas in the back and the dash face in mirror stainless and use beige vinyl at the tops of the doors and other rounded, padded, areas and the dash top.

Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy! I am going to have SO much fun with this project!
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #107
Klaus Priewe, the designer of this mod, had this to say about the above:

"The door glass is still original, not shortened. Without cutting the inside of the door in the front area, the door will not open upwards. The "cover-box" for the original hinge area works also as a reinforcement part for the body."

Here is the pic of the cover box, which also shows how the door sills were heightened. Hmmmm...interesting.....I wonder if the cover box and the sill heightening was all that was needed to stiffen the chassis?

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And here's another lovely pic of the finished car from 20 years ago one week after it came from the shop:

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #108
Here are pictures of how Klaus did his headliner:

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And this previously posted pic is now identified as what my car looked like before it was painted:

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #109
On a side note: I was under impression that the door locking/latching was not completed. But I now hear that they WERE completed and functional. There is a push button at the bottom center of the door, where the new latch is, and a key can unlock the push button. However, only the driver's side seems to be working at the moment, the other side seems to be stuck. No biggee, I'll get it working. :)
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #110
I'm told that the shortened doors make it impossible to wind the windows all the way down and that they will stay partially up by several inches. I'm told I can't have the hardened glass cut shorter at the bottom and I have experienced how fragile the hardened glass is on door windows. I took one out of a car one time and carefully set it down on my basement floor and it detonated. Millions of little squares of glass. I never drive with my windows up, the only time I roll them up is for security at a hotel or if it's raining. So, the idea of putting plexi/lexan race car windows in the doors occurs to me. They'll only get used once in a while and will mostly be down inside the door, plus they will make the doors lighter, which will help a lot. Can I get that stuff pre-curved or is it flexible enough to simply conform to the way the window track bends them? Can anyone suggest a source? Any help greatly appreciated.
 

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Detritus Maximus
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It can be heated til it's flexible, then sandwich it between two pieces of GT door glass while it cools.
Need to find an acrylic fabrication shop that has a big enough oven/heater.
You can also get mar resistant and impact modified acrylic.

Have a look at Glantz or Laird Plastics. Acrylics also has good info on the properties of various acrylics.
 

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I wonder if the cover box and the sill heightening was all that was needed to stiffen the chassis?
"All"? He added like, 4" of vertical steel. And shortened the member by like, 6". And it still has some roof, it's not a convertible. And, it's not driven when the doors are up and they contribute some to stiffness when closed. Looks find to my approxometer.

And here's another lovely pic of the finished car from 20 years ago one week after it came from the shop:
Damn, that's a great looking car.

. I'm told I can't have the hardened glass cut shorter at the bottom and I have experienced how fragile the hardened glass is on door windows.
Correct. You cannot cut tempered glass.

The process of making tempered glass means that the whole sheet has tremendous stresses put on it, from itself, in balance. If you imbalance that at all, the stresses start to equalize and then it explodes into croutons, by design.

It's not that it's too fragile to machine or anything like that. It's that the shape it is in itself, is what holds it together. If you add or remove material, you've unsprung it.

You can't grind it. You can't melt it. You can't even chemically etch through it.


Can I get that stuff pre-curved or is it flexible enough to simply conform to the way the window track bends them?
It will probably not conform, however, a blowdrier is hot enough to make it floppy. Or a heatgun. Or an oven. Or hovered above your shovetop with all the burners on. A bathtube with scaling hot water only is probably good enough too. Practice on offcuts, it's really easy, the trick is to get not get it too floppy, or parts it it floppy and other parts still stiff.

Opelbits has the right idea, sandwich it between two other pieces of glass, or even just one piece of glass and another piece of plastic that can be used to push against it. With two pieces of glass, you can probably just heat it right through the glass, the temperature that it gets floppy is way below the temperature glass cares about.

You can get it cheap from any local plastics supplier. I have probably 5 in my town, you pay for the size you want or just buy a full 4x8 sheet. Hundred bucks maybe?

...

You can also get mar resistant and impact modified acrylic.
Acrylic isn't 1/10th as impact-proof as polycarb, and it shatters nastily, but it weathers much better. Polycarb is more soft and gummy, like frozen peanutbutter.

I'd use polycarb and spray it with some headlight UV resist once a year.
 

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Detritus Maximus
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2,465 Posts
Warning on acrylic....if flame or a laser is used on it, DO NOT USE ALCOHOL on it to clean it. It Will cause it to crack...guaranteed.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #114
It doesn't sound like a doable idea. I'll have to see how much glass sticks up when the window is all the way down before I can contemplate other options.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #115 (Edited)
My GTX's previous 2.5 engine ready to be taken to the machine shop for new lower compression piston and head/block milling. That engine ran great for 2 years, but was made with too much compression for pump gas and it apparently had coolant leakage into #1 cylinder due to an insufficiently flat head/block. Hopefully addressing those 2 issues will have that engine back in business.

The short term plan is to get the car running and looking good enough to make it to Carlisle in May. I will put the Steinmetz SSD manifold and 45DCOE carb back on it.

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #117
Todd is a knucklehead and slow as schitt. Supposedly all the cars, about 5 of them, have been freed up and lined up in his lot ready for the trucking company to pick them up..........as of Monday. Still, you hear nothing from the guy. Once the trucker picks them up, my car will be here in Jersey in about 3-4 days, along with another one for a Jersey guy who lives north of me. The 2 month delay is disappointing, but we are saving a couple of hundred $$$ on shipping by shipping late like this. To be honest, I probably wouldn't be doing much with it until car show season is over anyway, so I'm patient.
 

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Opeler
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1,188 Posts
My GTX's previous 2.5 engine ready to be taken to the machine shop for new lower compression piston and head/block milling. That engine ran great for 2 years, but was made with too much compression for pump gas and it apparently had coolant leakage into #1 cylinder due to an insufficiently flat head/block. Hopefully addressing those 2 issues will have that engine back in business.

The short term plan is to get the car running and looking good enough to make it to Carlisle in May. I will put the Steinmetz SSD manifold and 45DCOE carb back on it.

View attachment 430461
Put a 1.9 L in it with a weber on it. I dont want to have to read 10 threads about why my car wont run correctly again. hahahaha

Karl
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #119
I talked with the trucker dude and he anticipates pick up of the cars on Friday, with delivery of mine on about Mon/Tue of next week. Another fella named Don Matlack, who lives about 45 minutes south of me, will also be getting a freshly painted and fixed up red one at that time, also.

Yipppeeeee!

:love:
 
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