I thought you would call the agency that provided nationality appropriate support staff at Carlise and hire a couple for the car shows. Your trophy count should surely go up among other things.
MO has a similar process. When I got my car from CO, I had to get a form signed by a LEO. I called the County Police department, and they sent a cop over. He checked the VIN (I guess to make sure it hadn't been reported stolen), and I was good to go. Took that form, CO title and a check and they sent me a new MO title in my name.Colorado has a similar restriction, to title an out of state car, a VIN verification must be completed. To do that, the car has to be present in Colorado.
Luckily, I live in a small town and the local PD will do VIN verification's for free for town residents. They will even do house calls! I haven't tried this yet but plan to do it for my recently acquired '75 1900. Instead of trailering to the PD for inspection, i can make an appointment and they will come to my house. Can't ask for an easier process than that!
"All"? He added like, 4" of vertical steel. And shortened the member by like, 6". And it still has some roof, it's not a convertible. And, it's not driven when the doors are up and they contribute some to stiffness when closed. Looks find to my approxometer.I wonder if the cover box and the sill heightening was all that was needed to stiffen the chassis?
Damn, that's a great looking car.And here's another lovely pic of the finished car from 20 years ago one week after it came from the shop:
Correct. You cannot cut tempered glass.. I'm told I can't have the hardened glass cut shorter at the bottom and I have experienced how fragile the hardened glass is on door windows.
It will probably not conform, however, a blowdrier is hot enough to make it floppy. Or a heatgun. Or an oven. Or hovered above your shovetop with all the burners on. A bathtube with scaling hot water only is probably good enough too. Practice on offcuts, it's really easy, the trick is to get not get it too floppy, or parts it it floppy and other parts still stiff.Can I get that stuff pre-curved or is it flexible enough to simply conform to the way the window track bends them?
Acrylic isn't 1/10th as impact-proof as polycarb, and it shatters nastily, but it weathers much better. Polycarb is more soft and gummy, like frozen peanutbutter.You can also get mar resistant and impact modified acrylic.
Put a 1.9 L in it with a weber on it. I dont want to have to read 10 threads about why my car wont run correctly again. hahahahaMy GTX's previous 2.5 engine ready to be taken to the machine shop for new lower compression piston and head/block milling. That engine ran great for 2 years, but was made with too much compression for pump gas and it apparently had coolant leakage into #1 cylinder due to an insufficiently flat head/block. Hopefully addressing those 2 issues will have that engine back in business.
The short term plan is to get the car running and looking good enough to make it to Carlisle in May. I will put the Steinmetz SSD manifold and 45DCOE carb back on it.
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