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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Now that I'm retired I now have time to plow into this project with more focus. My recent exploration of fuel pressure(best at about 38psi) and it's effect on AFR and driving performance has revealed that AFR's of 12.5 @ idle, 13 @ cruise, and 14 or so under acceleration are where Opel/Bosch decided the safe, economical, and low emissions zones are. I figure that this knowledge can act as a safe baseline as I work towards installing an aftermarket FI control system. Understand that my reason for this potential upgrade is not to achieve more power, although I'll gladly accept it if it's "safe" for the engine. My primary goals are to eliminate the Air Flow Meter in favor of Air Density sensing and to generally make the system more efficient and, possibly, more adaptable to performance upgrades later. And also simply as a mind challenging project. Understand also that 9 months ago I knew essentially nothing about fuel injection and that I've been on a crash course of learning just the basics of the Motronic 1.5 system on an Opel 2.4 engine.

I'm currently talking with a guy at DIYautotune, whom I presume are the makers of Megasquirt/Microsquirt. Apparently I could go sort of full custom with a Microquirt system by chopping all the wires and attaching them to the Microsquirt ECU or I could go with a pre-configured set up that accepts the Motronic computer harness plug, minimal wire cutting and reconfiguration, with a few added resistors and devices. This is the introduction to that latter set up:


If you read the introductory overview paragraphs, it appears to me that I want to go with the
TunerStudio Configuration for MicroSquirt
In that section it outlines the handful of wiring changes, resistors, and devices I'll need to change and add. None of this is over my head, I've performed similar work at my prior job. You just do each operation one at a time until you are done and then turn the key and see what happens. If glitches pop up, then you call tech support for more guidance. I'm well acquainted with this drill.

So, the purpose of this post is the subject of "Crank Angle". In previous conversation with tech support and now in the link I just posted, this seems to be something important that I need to find out. It appears to reference what angle the crankshaft is at when the first tooth, after the gap, is seen by my crank position sensor. I don't have a clue. I could be completely wrong about what is being asked of me to find out.

Could someone amongst the less than 1% of you who understands or has experience with this stuff help me out with this question?
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Okay, I just talked with Jeff Herman / Gold GT / Markandson and he told me that the crank angle references where the space on my timing wheel is in relation to my crank position sensor and #1 cylinder at the top in firing position.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Knowledge in hand, now is when it's really, really, great to have a guy like Charlie handy. Determining that crank angle would have been a major PIA for me. But Charlie has 2.4 timing covers and timing wheels laying around. He positioned the timing gear, marked things, then got out a degree wheel, and took some pics. Then, out of the blue, he finds a bracket he somehow got from somewhere, that repositions the CPS almost 180* closer to the distributor housing where the timing mark is. He said that "Euro dudes use this when installing Megasquirt and other aftermarket controllers on our engines". Here are the pics he took with the sensor in the oem location:

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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15,468 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
And here are the pics he took with the sensor mounted in the new location near the distributor housing with the new bracket. Some of you may recall that the oem sensor location on a 2.4 causes a BIG problem in a GT because it ends up 1/4" above the front suspension crossmember. You can't get the darn thing out without jacking up the engine. This new bracket Charlie had that repositions the CPS 180 or so degrees away next to the dizzy housing fixes that problem and possibly makes calculating the "crank angle" easier.

I still don't know what the "crank angle" is, because my brain has turned into cottage cheese about all this, but I have sent all the pics to the Megasquirt guy to figure out. We'll see what comes of it. Here are the pics of the sensor in the new locations:

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
The guy at Megasquirt got back to me after I sent him the pics:

<<< Sorry, I didn't mean it to sound this complicated. All you'll need to do is confirm the timing is where the ECU "thinks" it is with a timing light, and adjust the tooth #1 angle setting in the ECU if it's off. You will want to do that first with the injectors unplugged so the engine won't kick back if the timing is way off, then plug the injectors in when you're in the ballpark. >>>

Good Dammit! The brevity of his answer pisses me off. He made this issue sound like a big deal. I put Charlie through a whole bunch of work for nothing.

Jeff(GoldGT) plunged into this on his own accord and read up on this BMW configured system the guy is trying to sell me and also reviewed the newer systems they offer. He thinks I ought to skip the BMW system and just go with the Megasquirt II 3.0 system, plus a handful of widgets and gizmos.

Mannnnnn.......I'm losing my enthusiasm for this project.

All I really want to do is get rid of that darn air flow meter and decongest my engine compartment. That's all I really want. I only had one glitch with my system, stalling when limping along at idle, but now that I have corrected the fuel pressure that problem seems to be gone. The car starts and runs just fine. The Motronic system I have is supposed to be reknowned for it's stability and reliability. That's all I want from an FI system. I really don't care about more power. For all I know, my now plain 2.4 will never have the same power as my previous very high compression 2.5 engine, no matter what FI system I put on it. So I'd be going through a whole bunch of fuss and bother for almost no gain. If having that air flow meter and filter filling up the area in front of my radiator pisses me off that much, I could just reroute and position it all the way up front behind the grill where nobody can see it. I did that with a previous downdraft carb set up, no big deal.

That's where my thinking is at this point
 

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Über Genius
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That's one of the great things about the DIY boards. You can put a pick up just about anywhere and tune around it.
 

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The guy at Megasquirt got back to me after I sent him the pics:

<<< Sorry, I didn't mean it to sound this complicated. All you'll need to do is confirm the timing is where the ECU "thinks" it is with a timing light, and adjust the tooth #1 angle setting in the ECU if it's off. You will want to do that first with the injectors unplugged so the engine won't kick back if the timing is way off, then plug the injectors in when you're in the ballpark. >>>

Good Dammit! The brevity of his answer pisses me off. He made this issue sound like a big deal. I put Charlie through a whole bunch of work for nothing.

Jeff(GoldGT) plunged into this on his own accord and read up on this BMW configured system the guy is trying to sell me and also reviewed the newer systems they offer. He thinks I ought to skip the BMW system and just go with the Megasquirt II 3.0 system, plus a handful of widgets and gizmos.

Mannnnnn.......I'm losing my enthusiasm for this project.

All I really want to do is get rid of that darn air flow meter and decongest my engine compartment. That's all I really want. I only had one glitch with my system, stalling when limping along at idle, but now that I have corrected the fuel pressure that problem seems to be gone. The car starts and runs just fine. The Motronic system I have is supposed to be reknowned for it's stability and reliability. That's all I want from an FI system. I really don't care about more power. For all I know, my now plain 2.4 will never have the same power as my previous very high compression 2.5 engine, no matter what FI system I put on it. So I'd be going through a whole bunch of fuss and bother for almost no gain. If having that air flow meter and filter filling up the area in front of my radiator pisses me off that much, I could just reroute and position it all the way up front behind the grill where nobody can see it. I did that with a previous downdraft carb set up, no big deal.

That's where my thinking is at this point
It seems to me that the trigger is at thoot 19 after the missing theet, and thats the same as the C20XE/LET, and equals a trigger angle of 117 degrees.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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15,468 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I've decided not to go with the Microsquirt and will do a different FI modification. I plan to put a Holley Sniper SIDEWAYS on a Steinmetz single side draft manifold. The Holley people tell me that their FI carbs will work just fine sideways. The Holley Snipers have almost everything built in and are self-tuning. This set up will take up very little space and the cold air intake will flow straight from the radiator wall to the carb. The air flow to the engine will be a more or less straight into the side of the engine with no sharp bends. I just have to make an adapter for the carb/manifold union or have the manifold modded to directly bolt on the Holley.
 
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