Opel GT Forum banner

141 - 160 of 176 Posts

·
Opeler
Joined
·
3,670 Posts
The small L's and the squares are thin and have no provision for mounting the caliper, so they must be either spacers or reinforcers.
I agree, small "L"s are likely the spacers. Some kits come with spacers welded on the mounting bracket. It doesn't seem to be the case with the kit in question, so small "L"s should be inserted between the bracket and the caliper.


426742


One more thing: The brake lines should be mounted as close as possible to the calipers. This is to prevent brake lines being damaged by the frame when the rear axle is pushed upward due to road bumps or when the car is lowered.
426739

426740
 

·
Opeler
Joined
·
3,670 Posts
Alternate location of proportioning valve should be under the master cylinder. It usually takes several tries to find out optimum bias between front and rear brakes. This location provides easy access to the valve.
426744
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Wish I knew you were looking for a kit, we build the same kit pretty much, except I give you full instructions, backing plates, hoses, and a proportioning valve already set up for a GT and an emergency brake cable/parking brake cable.
Jesus!!! .... next time. I will recommend you to my pals ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
I agree, small "L"s are likely the spacers. Some kits come with spacers welded on the mounting bracket. It doesn't seem to be the case with the kit in question, so small "L"s should be inserted between the bracket and the caliper.


View attachment 426742

One more thing: The brake lines should be mounted as close as possible to the calipers. This is to prevent brake lines being damaged by the frame when the rear axle is pushed upward due to road bumps or when the car is lowered.
View attachment 426739
View attachment 426740
Very good pictures, now the global picture means more sense to me... And a very good advice about the brake line. Moreover, I was wondering where to put the proportioning valve, I was looking for an accessible area in the engine bay and your location it is ideal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Once mine will be finish, I will post all the process, maybe will help someone too. With a mention to you P.J.Romano just in case someone want to buy a brake kit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Well, here we go... I putted all together to see how looks before anything else. The clearance between the caliper and the disk brake looks ok for me...any input?
However, the clearance between the rims and the brake is too small for me... the problem is that I love that rims.... arggggg. I thought to install another 25mm wheel spacer to get a better clearance, however, I have installed already a 2" wheel spacers, two wheel spacers together? too much? I will need to cut the rear arc to dont destroy the tires? any idea?
Cheers guys 20200517_141144.jpg 20200517_141405.jpg 20200517_162743.jpg 20200517_183429.jpg 20200517_183438.jpg 20200517_183455.jpg 20200517_183500.jpg 20200517_192820.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
It isn't possible to slightly grind away material from the caliper ? And/or swap the 25mm spacers to 30-35mm ones. Of course of the bolt on type.
Thanks for your reply. The clearance you can see in the picture is because is already installed a 50mm (2") wheel spacer, if I dont fit that spacer the wheel wont fit... So, I need to install another 25mm (75 mm in total) to have a good clearance... however, I am thinking would be too much ( I dont know tbh)
Grind away material from the caliper could be an easy option, however, would affect to the performances of the brakes?....
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
677 Posts
Grinding away material should be ok as long as it's taken from cooling fins or other parts that sticks out from the caliper body. If available, the best option would be to swap to a larger diameter version of the wheel. 2-3" spacers are definitively not a good idea.
 

·
Just Some Dude in Jersey
Joined
·
14,246 Posts
Discussion Starter #151
14" rims. That's pretty unusual, you don't see them around much. Probably tough to get good high traction tires for them. Yeah, they're pretty nice looking. How wide are the rims? Assuming zero offset, if they're 8" and you already have 2" of spacers, that means that you presently have 6" of rim/tire to the outside of your axle bearings and only 2" towards the inside. I wouldn't add any more spacers. And if you intend on keeping those wheels you'll HAVE to grind some of the caliper off as Commodaren said. Luckily, cast iron is easy to grind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
14" rims. That's pretty unusual, you don't see them around much. Probably tough to get good high traction tires for them. Yeah, they're pretty nice looking. How wide are the rims? Assuming zero offset, if they're 8" and you already have 2" of spacers, that means that you presently have 6" of rim/tire to the outside of your axle bearings and only 2" towards the inside. I wouldn't add any more spacers. And if you intend on keeping those wheels you'll HAVE to grind some of the caliper off as Commodaren said. Luckily, cast iron is easy to grind.
Thanks Scif Guy, I shouldn't have painted the brakes before testing the wheels ... arggggg What rims have your car? are you using spacers?
Thx
 

·
Just Some Dude in Jersey
Joined
·
14,246 Posts
Discussion Starter #153
I have 8x15 negative 35 offset custom made Minilite wheels. Most wheels nowadays have POSITIVE offset. I have the Steinmetz flares on my car, so in order to fill out the wheel wells I have 2" spacers on the rear wheels. My brake rotors are entirely outside of the rear wheels! I have 1/2" spacers on the front wheels
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
I have 8x15 negative 35 offset custom made Minilite wheels. Most wheels nowadays have POSITIVE offset. I have the Steinmetz flares on my car, so in order to fill out the wheel wells I have 2" spacers on the rear wheels. My brake rotors are entirely outside of the rear wheels! I have 1/2" spacers on the front wheels
You are right, my wheels are J8 R14x185, probabley I whould have bigger tires in the back) ...good eye btw :)
the offset (ET) ,,, I dont know exactly what it write there....lol

20200518_194711.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
I don't see a proportioning valve in your pics. You will almost certainly need one to reduce the hydraulic pressure to the rear disc brakes by about HALF. Without one, the rear brakes will lock up even under light braking. Our cars are too light back there. Our cars need rear disc brakes like they need chicken wings: They don't, it's massive overkill. Unless you're racing, rear disc brakes are mainly just a cool project. At best, expect only 10% better braking.

GT's were one of the fastest stopping cars in tests back in the day. I've always thought that that was why so many GT's got rear-ended, other cars couldn't stop as quick as ours. :)

I am thinking to install the proportioning valve as the picture shows. Would be useless? as maybe never again I will touch it... but I dont like leave it outside with all the mud and water... I am thinking to installed in the engine bay that would be much easy for me. Thoughts?
427117
20200528_190858.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
677 Posts
Check what the law says first, it can be illegal to fit an adjustable prop valve in a way that it is attainable when driving. At least it is illegal in Finland, and I suspect it is the same in most of the western Europe and EU.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Check what the law says first, it can be illegal to fit an adjustable prop valve in a way that it is attainable when driving. At least it is illegal in Finland, and I suspect it is the same in most of the western Europe and EU.
Is a very good point....thanks for the advice
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,872 Posts
As already mentioned, grind down some clearance on your calipers and all should be well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ganyancin
141 - 160 of 176 Posts
Top