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Well, hewe we are... finished the conversion rear brakes.
I had some issues flaring the end pipes due the tool. I had an old tool and I wasnt happy with the outcome...I bought a better one...

The both ends in the pipes were different too. The original car had both ends wiith inverted flare but with the new calipers, one end had inverted flare and the other had bubble.

Also,
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I got enough clearance between the caliper and the rim... yeah!
 

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Here is where I fitted the proportioning valve....
The question is, to bleed the brakes I need the proportioning valve in the minimum, maximun, does not matter?
Thanks guys
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Did you use spacers to achieve your clearances?
 
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Did you use spacers to achieve your clearances?
Before fit all together, I did a "presentation" of all items. However, the presentation needs two phases; one without tight anything and another with all tighted.

I fitted all together but without tight properly the calipers for no waste the "nural" of the bolts. Then, the clearance between the calipers and the rims was too small. I thought that tighting all the bolts to the right torque wont save that gap... but I was wrong.

I took all the advices on board and I did a list:
1-grind the calipers
2-find small calipers
3- change the rims
4- add more spacers
5- tight all toguether to have a more realistic view of the clearance.

So before grind the brakes that was the biggest job, I researched for bigger rims and smaller calipers. The options didnt like it too much. Add another spacers was not an option either, I didnt want to add more stress to the new bearings.

Therefore I tried to torque all and see how look...and surprise! I am happy with the new clearance....

Yeah....
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #168 (Edited)
All I can tell you is that I use a Power Bleeder contraption to pressurize my brake fluid reservoir/MC. With normal brakes I then just started opening the bleeders at the calipers and rear drum brake cylinders and the fluid would run out, then I would tighten them after the bubbles and rusty fluid had been purged. After installing the rear discs, nothing would come out of the rear calipers, I had to have someone pump the pedal to make the fluid come out of the rear calipers. PJRomano had installed rear discs shortly before I did and he said that he just left his proportioning valve set at the 50% it was set at when he got it, so I did the same thing.

I have no idea why simple pressurizing of the system would not work with the prop valve or why pumping the pedal does. When you are done and you've done everything more or less correctly, your brakes will be amazing and should make contact with only about an inch of pedal movement.

I've heard it said by our main guru, RallyBob, that you should bleed all the fluid out of your brake system once a year to purge the rusty, oxygen saturated, fluid out. Before I installed the rear discs I did this every year and, yes, lots of rusty fluid came out, even though all my brake components were brand new, except for the rebuilt widened BMW calipers I have up front. I haven't bled them for at least 3 years now, so I'm overdue. The added necessity of finding someone to sit in the car and pump the pedal when I bleed the rear ones has made me keep putting it off.

:)
 

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All I can tell you is that I use a Power Bleeder contraption to pressurize my brake fluid reservoir/MC. With normal brakes I then just started opening the bleeders at the calipers and rear drum brake cylinders and the the fluid would run out, then I would tighten them after the bubbles and rusty fluid had been purged. After installing the rear discs, nothing would come out of the rear calipers, I had to have someone pump the pedal to make the fluid come out of the rear calipers. PJRomano had installed rear discs shortly before I did and he said that he just left his proportioning valve set at the 50% it was set at when he got it, so I did the same thing.

I have no idea why simple pressurizing of the system would not work with the prop valve or why pumping the pedal does. When you are done and you've done everything more or less correctly, your brakes will be amazing and should make contact with only about an inch of pedal movement.

I've heard it said by our main guru, RallyBob, that you should bleed all the fluid out of your brake system once a year to purge the rusty, oxygen saturated, fluid out. Before I installed the rear discs I did this every year and, yes, lots of rusty fluid came out, even though all my brake components were brand new, except for the rebuilt widened BMW calipers I have up front. I haven't bled them for at least 3 years now, so I'm overdue. The added necessity of finding someone to sit in the car and pump the pedal when I bleed the rear ones has made me keep putting it off.

:)
thanks, I'll try and I will tell you know how it well...
 

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Your Noble Friend ;-)
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Here is where I fitted the proportioning valve....
The question is, to bleed the brakes I need the proportioning valve in the minimum, maximun, does not matter?
Thanks guys
Keep the valve at "wide open" to make it easier for the brake fluid (and air) to flow through while bleeding.

Dieter
 

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P.S. When I had someone pump the pedal, I'm pretty sure I also still had my Power Bleeder hooked up. This didn't seem to cause a problem.
Thanks, I'll try my best. Just waiting couple spares from germany to finish the project.
Also I had to order new banjo bolts, as the ones I had were different pitch.
Also, the proportioning valve had very few threads and I had to make the deepest thread to fit the bolts... fingers crossed is not leaking after all.
 

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Would you please elaborate on this? What happened here?

Dieter
What happened is that after flare the pipe that connected the proportioning valve, I saw that it did not seal well. The threads in both places, "in and out", did not reach the end. Probably designed for a 3/8 x 1mm pitch connector with a longer end than the standard ones in EU and US. So I had to tap the proportioning valve... I think asian countries, like Japan and China have different standard in some kind of things... They are selling adaptors but the cost is higher than a new proportioning valve. BTW I couldn't find these adaptors in Europe, and once again, buying abroad is more expensive the ship and the customs fees than the item...
Therefore, if fails, I will buy a new proportioning valve with the adaptors included or one that is made in EU or US. However, is not that easy as looks, as many brands are only the name, their factories are in Asia...
 

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Well guys, here we are... project completed !!!. And as you can see in one of the pictures, my garage is very small, work in some kind of projects without lift and without enough room is a challenge...

Now I'm going for a dual carb project... so expect me doing 100 questions again... lol

Thanks to all of you who helped me during this project

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