I'm pretty sure that all GT gas pedal have 2 holes: One for the solid linkage and one for the kick down cable, plus there's room to drill 1-2 additional holes. The farther away from the pivot, the faster the throttle response. Regardless, you attach a Lokar throttle cable end(there are a number of the 5 they make that will work) to the pedal lever and below it on the motor mount tower there are 2-3 holes to mount a right angle bracket with a hole drilled for the adjusting barrel of the cable housing. If you have an automatic, you already have a bracket there, but you'll need to make one that's big enough for 2 cables. You'll need a 48" long cable(You'll have to special order that). This post starts my discussion and discoveries about Lokar cables:
In order to prevent strain on the cable, you might consider cable pulley from Honda CB750. It is very similar to what you are already using on your FI, except it consists of two pieces with a strong spiral spring in between. When FI reaches full throttle but you still have stroke left on gas...
Two Injector, Twin Throttle Body, 60-2 Timing, Wiring Harness Layout and Devices
I puzzled out the various connectors and the devices they go to this morning. A few come pre-labeled, most are not, but the number of terminals on each plug leaves little guesswork. I specified "60-2 Timing" in the title because my engine has that type of timing gear, so timing is plug in one device and done. Most of you would use the distributor for timing and a Pertronix-like device and there may be more/different connections and devices. This whole set up is only for someone using a single side draft manifold and a twin throttle body with only 2 injectors in "batch fire" mode. If you had oem FI and 4 injectors and a Pertronix, you could then have even better "sequential firing" of the injectors.
Although I don't actually need it, the alternate mounting location custom crank position sensor holder/bracket is on the way. Actually 2 of them, one from Charlie and one coming from the guy in Europe who made them, Anders Tjernström. It's his last one and I don't think he's going to make any more. I'll be putting both of them on my cars, but I would like to see if I could get someone to reproduce them before I install the last one. They weren't expensive, just $50 each. They mount to the oem fuel pump location at the bottom of the distributor housing. If you have a 2.4 timing cover, the center hole for the fuel pump plunger is undrilled and basically blocked off, but the 2 pump mounting bolt holes should still be there and threaded, so it should bolt right onto that location. If you have a 1.9/2.0 and possibly a 2.2 cover, this bracket replaces the fuel pump block off plate. It is made to mount a Bosch crank position sensor to read the 60-2 timing wheel on 2.4 or other Opel engines that use that timing gear. It's benefit is that it relocates the CPS sensor from the 7:00 position, which is directly over a GT's front suspension crossmember with only a 1/4" gap, to the more accessible and safer 2:00 position. It also eliminates the need to try to find the hard to get 2.4 oil pump covers that have the oem 7:00 position CPS holder molded into them. It seems to also have a carve out on the side to help dodge the fan belt.
Even though I have the 7:00 position 2.4 oem oil pump cover bracket and sensor, I want to use one of these holders to relocate the oem sensor away from the crossmember and the tight clearance there. It's almost impossible to remove the oem sensor in the 7:00 position without jacking the engine up tight against the tunnel, with an auto tranny, or removing the oil pump cover. It might be easier with a stick tranny. It's also possible for the sensor to get damaged if motor mounts collapse or you hit a really bad speed bump. It's also a cool gizmo that almost no one has. It's mounting method, location, and design might also give inspiration for a bracket design for those who want to use an alternate style of timing wheel than the Opel 60-2 one.
I'll entertain the thought of lending out my spare for a short time to someone who could scan or measure it and reproduce it in some fashion. These are pics from Charlie, I'll take more detailed pics and maybe measurements when I get it in a few days.
I now have every thing I need to swap the 2.4 Motronic FI system off of my GTX car and install a modern FI system using s single side draft manifold and a twin throttle body with 2 injectors.
I didn't actually need this bracket to do the swap, I could just continue to use the 1990's era sensor that is already in the car and which is a PIA to install and remove and sits dangerously close to the front suspension crossmember. In fact, it's such a PIA to get it out that I'm just going to leave it there and mount the new sensor and bracket in the new easier to access location. The Motronic sensor is at the 7:00 position, in relation to the crankshaft, and the new one is at the 2:00 position. The bracket bolts to where the mechanical fuel pump used to go and would either bolt on in place of the block off plate on 1.9 timing covers or in the same location on later covers that don't have the center hole for the fuel pump plunger, but which still have the mounting holes drilled and tapped. If you have the 60-2 timing gear on the crankshaft, this is a great thing to have if you have a GT, if you get your FI timing from the distributor, you don't need this.
The new sensor is about 12mm(1/2") shorter than the 1990's one I've been using and I won't know until I start the install to see if it will mount close enough(1-2mm) to the timing wheel to read it. The maker of the bracket just said it was made for Bosch sensors. The plugs seem to be identical. Does anyone know if the long and short sensors work the same and wire up the same?
The dreadful almost 100* heat wave ends on Thursday, no way the AC in my tiny garage could have made it livable and enjoyable to work in this past month. But, come Friday, I should have at least 10 days of weather in the mid-80's, so that I can actually enjoy the install of this latest mod.
I totally didn't like the look of the black throttle body in my chromy wonderland, so last night I stripped off a few external items and painted it with aluminum 2X and a few coats of Eastwood Diamond Clear. I also sealed some raw aluminum parts with the Diamond clear to keep them from corroding. I have to add another vacuum port to the manifold for the MAP sensor and I'm going to reconfigure the stand alone idle air control stuff with small filter to mount into the side of my air box and use the cold air intake's main filter. I have to drive over to the industrial metal supply warehouse today to pick up a sheet of thick mirror finish stainless steel sheet metal to make a new lid and to upgrade some areas of my engine compartment that need some fixing up.
Uuuurrgghhh! I'm in a bit of a peccadillo configuring and mounting the idle air control valve. I have 2 set ups: The new system from Classic Fuel Injection(CFI) and my previous one that was made by a small company and uses the 4 hoses idea. The CFI one would also use hoses, but only 2 larger ones and a 2-hose manifold that would connect to CFI's IACV. CFI's kit uses Weber throttle bodies that have one LARGE barbed fitting on each of the 2 barrels, so 2 hoses. The FAJS throttle body I had previously bought only have a small threaded port for a barbed fitting on each barrel. I didn't think those small ports would provide enough air, so I drilled and tapped 4 holes in the manifold into a "runner unifying passageway" I had previously drilled to make the single side draft idle better. The 4 hoses and previous IACV would certainly have worked, but it was purchased to use with the Microsquirt operating system I had first bought and all those hoses are an unsightly annoyance. The guy at CFI said that his would work much better and has a separate controller for his IACV that isn't compatible with the IACV that worked for the Microsquirt system.
But my 4 barbed fitting holes are already drilled and the barbed fittings mounted. If it wasn't for the fact that my manifold is already chromed, I would have set it to someone to weld hose outlets to it. I could plug off the 4 drilled holes and drill more holes for bigger barbed fittings, but there's only so much thickness of the flange for me to work with. The other big flaw is that the Steinmetz SSD manifold doesn't have a common plenum, hence the 3/8" passageway I drilled. If I had known that I was later going to be going with FI and add a MAP sensor, I would have had a whole bunch more welding and modding done to the manifold to give me a common plenum, idle IACV port, MAP sensor port, and maybe other ports. Too late now, I have to work with what I have.
What strikes me as amazing is how little air flow it seems is required to run the engine at idle with these throttle bodies. Just a 1/8"-3/16" port for each TB barrel seems to be all that is required. The oem Motronic manifold and throttle body had huge 1/2"-5/8" vacuum ports for the idle air system. The 2 systems I have seem to use half of that with a combined diameter of 3/8". It's all very confusing and I won't know if any of it will work for sure until I turn the key for the first time.
So, the simplest way out of my dilemma is to try to adapt the 4 hose manifold from the small company, or maybe I got it from Jenvey, to plug into the new CFI IACV gizmo. I'm sure I can pull it off, but I sure wish I had the luxury of a common plenum on the Steinmetz with places to easily attach the various high vacuum devices/hoses I need. RallyBob is making me a new manifold to address all these concerns and give me other benefits. But, that will go on the new car. I'm going to have to hope for the best as I try to jury rig what I already have to work on my red car. This IS an experiment to try to use an SSD manifold and just one twin throttle body with 2 injectors to run a big 2.4L displacement engine, so what I'm really doing is a proof of concept mod. If I could start all over from scratch, I would have had various mods done to the manifold to fix the issues I'm encountering. Some pics to show the parts:
I stripped out the Motronic FI wiring harness yesterday and went out and bought a really mirror-like sheet of mirror finish stainless steel to make a new cover for my air box and replacement chromy panels for the corner pieces at the rear of my engine compartment. The corner pieces were chromed aluminum sheet metal and they didn't stand the test of time and were corroding.
Today I slapped some aluminum exhaust paint on my jet coated cast iron 2.4 manifold, which was showing rusted pores in the metal. I also made the super mirror-like cover for my air box. Then I decided that I needed to take some pics of the individual main parts in a step-by-step fashion, so that I could size up where I have room to put things. And for eye candy for you guys to munch on. All loosely fitted, no gaskets, no wiring or hoses hooked up, and I definitely need to get some new cold air intake pipe that isn't all scratched up.
New FI - Day 4 - Idle Air Control, TB, and Air Box Mods Complete
Today was mostly about mixing and matching my various idle air control components and then finding a place to mount them that was efficient, logical, minimal, and looks good. I only had one really good place for the IAC valve and that was between the throttle body barrels. It took me all day to get it in there good and solid and everything around it not interfering with electrical connectors and other stuff. The clear hoses are just cheap hose from the hardware store for mock up purposes, heat resistant black hoses will be fitted to the final incarnation. This whole thing was the hard part of the project, I have never seen any car that used those hoses on throttle bodies and a modern style IACV, so I had nothing to base my design on.