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OH yes your post 57 showed that, I was under the assumption you took it apart.
Did you find the keepers or bits of in the top of the head?
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
OH yes your post 57 showed that, I was under the assumption you took it apart.
Did you find the keepers or bits of in the top of the head?
My investigation is just what you see in the pics. Yes, I see a few slivers of metal on top of the head. I left what remains of the keeper in the spring cap for the machine shop to observe. At present we're thinking of replacing the whole head, so I/we aren't going to mess with it at all.
 

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Detritus Maximus
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Hmmm......I'm pretty good at woodworking, maybe I should make a wood engine. Facebook video:

I know you meant it as a joke, but years ago one of the writers for Classic and Sportscar wrote a Running Report (a regular feature about living with and maintaining their own old cars) and how while tearing down his motor, something British and from the 50s-60s, found a wooden piston. It was maple as I recall.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #86 ·
More valve and piston damage pics
Good news! I don't think the piston has to come out. I wire wheeled the top of the piston to clean it up, then used a 2" rubber grinding/polishing wheel I've had for 30 years and never found a use for to round/flatten off sharp or raised edges. 5 minutes worth of work! I just need to use some emery cloth or a dremel to smooth out and remove ridges at the bottom of a couple of gouges. Is it normal for the valve guide to have a short slot cut into the end?

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Gordon, you should’ve taped over the gap between the piston and cylinder wall. Now all that abrasive is trapped above the top ring. It will scratch the heck out of the cylinder.

I’ve never seen a valve guide with a notch in it.
I’d recommend replacing the guide. It could be compromised (cracked) from the bent valve getting jammed into it. Been there and done that.

Also, throw out the retainers and keepers. There was a compatibility issue, so chances are the others are damaged too.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
I dremeled and emery clothed the deep ridges in the gouges and the piston is pretty decent now. Then vacuuming and moving the piston up and down to remove debris, if there was any. Then I cleaned off the remains of the head gasket and vacuumed some more. Next I drained the oil and tossed the filter, followed by pan removal. I always run my oil and coolant through a t-shirt strainer when I drain things so that I can search for debris, if any. Yeah, there was debris in the oil pan, even after draining, so good that I removed it. All the dirty work basically done.

I'm not sure how the head will play out, whether we replace it entirely or have the shop work it over. They are slow as schitt, but it's their fault the valve failed, so they owe me a warranty repair.

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I'm not very smart so take this as you will.

I wouldn't run that piston.
With the impact it's seen, the skirt took some pain.
With that impact, it may not show a crack on the surface of the piston but it could be cracked on the opposite side. I've seen this happen on metal more than an inch thick. No reason to think it couldn't happen on something .25" thick.

You don't need to pull the engine to pull the pistons. You need to pull it to pull the crank.

It's your call if you want to risk rebuilding it AGAIN by reusing that piston.
 

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I'm not very smart so take this as you will.

I wouldn't run that piston.
With the impact it's seen, the skirt took some pain.
With that impact, it may not show a crack on the surface of the piston but it could be cracked on the opposite side. I've seen this happen on metal more than an inch thick. No reason to think it couldn't happen on something .25" thick.

You don't need to pull the engine to pull the pistons. You need to pull it to pull the crank.

It's your call if you want to risk rebuilding it AGAIN by reusing that piston.
Quite right. If it forged it might be worth salvaging. Cast, NOT.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
We're going to put a new piston in. Bob has offered one and Charlie has others.

o_O (n):poop:are you serious?
I can't believe you haven't cussed all over this thread.
Way to hold it back Gordon.
But I bet they'll hear it LOL
Publicly cussing and throwing people under the bus won't get it fixed. In the end, I've always enjoyed tinkering with my Opels more than actually driving them. Well, now I'm tinkering with a problem and believe it or not I'm actually enjoying it(a little) so far. The engine doesn't have to come out and get rebuilt, I just have to do some wrenching and I love wrenching. I'm a pessimist and always expect the worst, the worst(pulling the engine for a block rebuild) isn't necessary, so I'm thrilled. Plus I have options, I have an already rebuilt engine waiting in the wings that has been languishing at Charlie's for a year. That engine was supposed to go in the new car. I could put the new piston in and just have Charlie give me the head from the new engine and I'd be up and running. If all I had was just the GTX to worry about, well, Winter is upon us and I wouldn't be driving it much so I could wait months to resolve the issue. But the new car will be arriving any day now and it will have to share space under the GTX on the lift in my tiny garage. I don't want a dripping fluid car sitting above it and there will be times with the new car that I'll need to work under neath of it with it on the lift and that means getting the GTX off the lift. It sucks to push around fully built cars that don't run on my small property. The new engine hasn't had the head installed on it yet and I need the GTX to run, so that I can drive it on and off the lift, plus actually drive it for a little pleasure, so it would be expedient to put the new engine's head on the GTX engine and get it running. The head shouldn't need too much work to fix and that can play out over the Winter and Spring months
 

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Opel Key Master
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Now a thing about the warranty, I know 3000 miles isn't much...but we don't all drive these cars that much. So how long ago did they do the work? What I'm saying is if they built the head 5 years ago, and they warranty the head...they are doing you a massive favor in retrospec, but not really entitled to do anything. Its easy to say its their fault, but do we know that 100%? Were they provided the parts, are the parts wrong? Was it just a fluke failure? I would say until the other valves are removed and to see if any issues with them, and the retainers being correct or not.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
It was done about a year and a half ago. There's the "implied" warranty, nothing in writing, from the shop and the gentleman's agreement warranty from Charlie. One way or the other it will get fixed or a suitable replacement will be given to me and it will either be free or I'll have to pay them or someone else. I need a reliable 2.4 head one way or the other.
 

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I'm not very smart so take this as you will
Oh Come on First opel,
You'd have a better chance of me/us believing you won the lotto BIG, bought a private opel Island, And offered parcels to us for free and payed the closing cost.
Well before I will ever believe that statement!!!
Wait a minute was that you be sarcastic?
You sly dog you I almost missed it LOL
 

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Washed it up quickly. Looks pretty good. I’ll mail it out to you tomorrow.
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From your photos it appears that those are 10 degree Chev keepers got stuffed into 7 degree retainers.
Not likely. That’s would be a massive misfit.

Stock Chevy keepers fit the Opel retainer taper but they are the wrong overall diameter. This means that only about 50% of the taper is in contact.
 
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