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Über Genius
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Are the pistons right way around?...
And are the rods oriented correctly on the pistons?

I had a choice once. Redo the wrist pins or add new oil squirters. I did the latter.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
I marked the rods and bearing caps with a grease pen as I removed them to preserve the orientation they were in and cross-checked between cylinders that they all had the same sides facing forward. I didn't mess with the relatively new bearing sleeves and just put things back together the way they came apart, doing one removal, swap, and reinstall at a time, making sure that things were cleaned of any debris and re-lubed. I watched a bunch of YouTube videos about ring and piston install and had the FSM tell me where to put the ring gaps. I also checked that my ring gaps were within the acceptable range, none of them needed grinding.

Today I'll torque my rod bolts, clean oil and excess sealer boogers off of the one-piece pan gasket, which is still adhered to the block, and reinstall the pan. Then I'll vacuum the coolant passages, in case any head gasket debris got into them, and I'll finish cleaning out the head bolt holes, which have had paper towels in them over night to suck up any water/oil that may have gotten into them during the head removal.


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Good choice on using the thinner piston rings that are standard on the factory pistons for 2.2 and 2.4 engines. It has been stated that the thinner rings reduce heat and help counter ring chatter.
You could have used ring land spacers that are available for the Chevy rings on your old modified pistons but I like the thinner rings you are using.
Good Luck with your build.
John
 

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Detritus Maximus
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3,189 Posts
And are the rods oriented correctly on the pistons?

I had a choice once. Redo the wrist pins or add new oil squirters. I did the latter.
Rods: big hole at the bottom, little hole at the top. If you aren't careful it's easy to get it wrong...
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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15,866 Posts
Discussion Starter · #126 ·
Good choice on using the thinner piston rings that are standard on the factory pistons for 2.2 and 2.4 engines. It has been stated that the thinner rings reduce heat and help counter ring chatter.
You could have used ring land spacers that are available for the Chevy rings on your old modified pistons but I like the thinner rings you are using.
Good Luck with your build.
John
Well, good, I'm glad I went that route then. And being a tad lighter I might even end up a bit faster. Woo-hoo, FIFTY hp increase! Wheeeee! :ROFLMAO:

Or I'll have done something wrong and it will self-destruct and I'll be replacing the engine in 6 months.........again.
 

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Rods: big hole at the bottom, little hole at the top. If you aren't careful it's easy to get it wrong...
What he may have been taking about is that the notch or mark on the piston goes toward the front (timing chain cover) of the engine and the notch on the piston rods go toward the rear (transmission area) of the engine. I have seen machine shops get it wrong, but not the one I use. I always include written instructions with specs. and etc. with parts I have at the machine shop.
 

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Über Genius
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9,582 Posts
What he may have been taking about is that the notch or mark on the piston goes toward the front (timing chain cover) of the engine and the notch on the piston rods go toward the rear (transmission area) of the engine. I have seen machine shops get it wrong, but not the one I use. I always include written instructions with specs. and etc. with parts I have at the machine shop.
This is why I bought my own hydraulic press. I'll do my own pistons after the machine shop messed them up. Not to mention they threw away a perfectly good set of pistons when I was swapping to bigger pistons.
 
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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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15,866 Posts
Discussion Starter · #131 ·
2.4 rods don't have oil holes or grooves at the crank and the wrist pins are free floating, plus they are identically shaped, so they can be installed facing the front or the rear. You do have to make sure that a "pip" on the bearing cap is on the same side as the "pip" on the rod.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
GTX car cylinder head arrival
Charles Goin brought me a replacement cylinder head to help repair my dropped valve incident. I decided to replace ALL the pistons and rings, instead of just the one that got damaged, and the bottom of the engine is now all closed up. I just needed a repaired cylinder head. This head is actually from my previous silver painted 2.5L engine which ran great for 2.5 years and 7000 miles until a chronic coolant leak due to the head/block not being milled flat enough started causing a weird problem that caused my single side draft to go into "limp mode". I don't think I would have discovered the coolant leak problem if I had a normal downdraft carb or FI, so it was sort of a good thing that the limp mode was happening because it made me search for the illusive problem. So, since it was a known good head and it was freshly milled flat, it was a good candidate to replace my current head that had a bent valve and split guide and probably more valves that were on the verge of failure due to improper valve keepers. I'll reuse the stock 2.4 cam and rockers from my present engine in it and give it new lifters and rocker nuts. The previous engine also had too high compression and was pinging, due to having flat top pistons instead of the required dished pistons. The pistons have been replaced and the block was milled to make sure it was flat. When my present head with the valve issue is repaired, it will go on the 2.5 block and that engine will go in my Banana car.

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