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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, this time I'm back with great news. A week ago a user that lives near me posted his 1973 GT for trade. I went to check it out and structurally its in amazing condition. The story of it is, a while back the original owner had brought it in the the shop due to it not starting, then abandoned it I'm guessing due to possible repair cost or some other reason? I'm not too certain on the full backstory of it but, I'm hoping its something simple that got overlooked at the time. I'm going back this weekend to work on it and try to get it to start and maybe run.

Does anyone know any issues that 73' GT's had that might have prevented them from starting ? Visually the engine bay seems to be in excellent condition. I'm also kindly asking for any recommended areas to check that might cause this issue and/or any diagnostics. I'm still quite new to the Opel word/community and I could definitely use some expert and experienced opinions along with the research I do to find out other information.Thank you very much! I look forward to hearing back from y'all and update you on the progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Lots of things, just like any other car. Spark, good fuel, compression. How long was it sitting?
I'm going to be draining the old fuel and adding some fresh one with some fuel additives, the sparks on there look relatively new with new cables too I'll post a photo below and for compression I'll be renting one from a local auto shop to test the fuel pressure and engine pressure. I'm not too certain how long it has been sitting but I could guess anywhere from 10-20 years.
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Discussion Starter #5
If its been sitting for that long with fuel I wouldn't trust the fuel system at all. From tank to carb. You might hook up a temporary fuel supply to see if it will fire.
Carb has been recently clean, but I'll try a gravity can style for the gas if I don't manage to clean the tank.
 

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Like Kwshumm mentioned the most important of the 3 is to be sure that you start with fresh fuel, I’d even recommend taking the cover off from the carburetor (if it’s a Weber, they are simple) and removing the fuel inside of the bowl. If it’s a Solex I’d leave it alone for now.
Check for good fuel flow before the fuel pump, if the tank has been sitting long enough something may have been jeopardized inside such as the sock or fine screen at the bottom of the tank being plugged, if the gas dumps aggressively before the pump as long as you have fresh fuel check that one off of the list.
IF you have the original 73’ cylinder head they tend to be cracked on the exhaust between #2 & #3, there’s very few of them left so there’s a good chance that it’s already been replaced and you have a good one on there now. Lower compression would usually be indicated on those two cylinders.

You’ll want to identify what sort of cranking compression you have because in 1971 Opel lowered the compression a bit too much as did a lot of auto manufacturers back then until they figured out a short while later they didn’t have to.

With cars as old as these, the previous owner could have rebuilt the entire engine, so you really don’t know what you’ve got until you start checking. Usually 115-140 indicates the lower compression dish type pistons, 150 and up would indicate the flat top higher compression pistons that have a little more get up & go. Here’s a good link for you to get started with.

Opel GT Source has a great website with many more very good tech tips. Lots of great folks here willing to help you out with a tremendous knowledge base, astounding at times. It sounds like a great find and hopefully lots of fun ahead! Can’t wait to hear more!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Like Kwshumm mentioned the most important of the 3 is to be sure that you start with fresh fuel, I’d even recommend taking the cover off from the carburetor (if it’s a Weber, they are simple) and removing the fuel inside of the bowl. If it’s a Solex I’d leave it alone for now.
Check for good fuel flow before the fuel pump, if the tank has been sitting long enough something may have been jeopardized inside such as the sock or fine screen at the bottom of the tank being plugged, if the gas dumps aggressively before the pump as long as you have fresh fuel check that one off of the list.
IF you have the original 73’ cylinder head they tend to be cracked on the exhaust between #2 & #3, there’s very few of them left so there’s a good chance that it’s already been replaced and you have a good one on there now. Lower compression would usually be indicated on those two cylinders.

You’ll want to identify what sort of cranking compression you have because in 1971 Opel lowered the compression a bit too much as did a lot of auto manufacturers back then until they figured out a short while later they didn’t have to.

With cars as old as these, the previous owner could have rebuilt the entire engine, so you really don’t know what you’ve got until you start checking. Usually 115-140 indicates the lower compression dish type pistons, 150 and up would indicate the flat top higher compression pistons that have a little more get up & go. Here’s a good link for you to get started with.

Opel GT Source has a great website with many more very good tech tips. Lots of great folks here willing to help you out with a tremendous knowledge base, astounding at times. It sounds like a great find and hopefully lots of fun ahead! Can’t wait to hear more!
Thank you very much for taking the time to provide me with this information, I’ll update the post if I have any updates.
 

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"I'm going back this weekend to work on it and try to get it to start and maybe run."


Welcome to the Club...Web Group, Am always glad to hear new excitement in in new members and hope that you picked a good GT candidate for your Project Restoration. Opel GT's are Really Cool Cars to own
Was the PO a Member Here?
I would think that you would want to get the GT home back onto your Property. If your the new owner.

Need More Photo's Posted up.... then some Yellow spark plug wires.j/k .LOL Let's see what you Have (y)

First, Remove Spark plug #1 slip it back into the plug wire, and check for spark against ground..


If it was me... first time Opeler
If you have spark... I would just Go for the Starting Spray,, couple of squirts just to hear the Motor kick,fire and come alive... That will make you Happy to hear,,It's Alive LOL...,then get your GT home...
That's My advise. Post Tons of photo's along the way, That will helps " US" to help You, :cool: Good Luck
 

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RunOpel
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Yea congratulations on finding an Opel GT. Please post more pictures interior and exterior. You are definitely in the right place to get the best advice and expertise in the Opel world.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
"I'm going back this weekend to work on it and try to get it to start and maybe run."


Welcome to the Club...Web Group, Am always glad to hear new excitement in in new members and hope that you picked a good GT candidate for your Project Restoration. Opel GT's are Really Cool Cars to own
Was the PO a Member Here?
I would think that you would want to get the GT home back onto your Property. If your the new owner.

Need More Photo's Posted up.... then some Yellow spark plug wires.j/k .LOL Let's see what you Have (y)

First, Remove Spark plug #1 slip it back into the plug wire, and check for spark against ground..


If it was me... first time Opeler
If you have spark... I would just Go for the Starting Spray,, couple of squirts just to hear the Motor kick,fire and come alive... That will make you Happy to hear,,It's Alive LOL...,then get your GT home...
That's My advise. Post Tons of photo's along the way, That will helps " US" to help You, :cool: Good Luck
Thank you Dpre and Opellane for the information and tips, when I go back I'll be sure to take some more photos. I have some I'll post right now, I mostly took videos so I could later analyze them, I'll add a google docs link with the videos, I'll also be adding new pics and vids there as the project progresses (smoothly as possibly hopefully). I'm not certain of the original owner, but the PO I got it from is a member on the forum (Mick88). He has a mechanic buddy who had dropped this off to him instead of the junk yard after the customer had abandoned it for years.
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RunOpel
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Looks like a nice GT. How is the rust especially at the floor panels?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Looks like you have something to work with.
I sure do! I'm replacing the starter coil and distributor condenser this weekend in hopes of getting it to start, I also order blank keys so fingers crossed that I'll have it running by next week.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
sweet another opel gt saved and appears you have something to work with there awesome find my friend
Thank you, I've enjoyed working on it so far, I haven't done much but just testing the mechanical condition. Hopefully this weekend I'll get it to run then do maintenance on it.
 

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oh shoot haha, thanks for pointing that out, I'll add that to the to-do list!
Don't worry too much about strictly observing the stock tail light location "rule". That is way on down the list of things that you need to be concerned about right now. I actually prefer to have the taillights on the outside since it marks the outer boundary of the car better at night. The amber lights are only seen when you turn or are broken down, so where they are located is not that critical.
 

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RunOpel
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You will hear many members recommend taking one project at a time rather than working on many projects and get no where. I know you already know that and are probably concentrating on the mechanical part in order to get it running. The ultimate goal is to get it running so you can drive it and have fun. Once its derivable, you then can work on the restoration/modification and still take it out for a drive.
Looking forward to watching your progress, good luck and have fun :)
 
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