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Oh, you mean the basic part is actually part of the cable and you only put in a pipe plug. Now that's easier than I thought, this should be a cinch. I was talking about the diameter of the whole part not the diameter of the pipe plug. I have not looked at that connection in such a long time I don't remember what it looks like. That's why my previous comment was about a welded nut because I was assuming that it screwed on.
It's not part of the cable, it is the speed driven gear 'holder'. I did chop the threads off of it.
 

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Jeff, if you want I will have my machinist Earl make an aluminum plug that you can insert and attach the same way as the speedometer pinion but there will be no cable - very similar to Bob's solution. He can do it this weekend and his price is always very reasonable. Actually, I can have him make two as I will likely switch to GPS speedometer at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Jeff, if you want I will have my machinist Earl make an aluminum plug that you can insert and attach the same way as the speedometer pinion but there will be no cable - very similar to Bob's solution. He can do it this weekend and his price is always very reasonable. Actually, I can have him make two as I will likely switch to GPS speedometer at some point.
PJ, that is perfect. I will take it. Just let me know how much for the part and shipping.
Thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter #44
It's not part of the cable, it is the speed driven gear 'holder'. I did chop the threads off of it.
See, told you I could not remember what it looked like. PJ's solution will mean that I don't destroy the gear retainer and cable connection point. I don't know why I should be concerned since I never intend to put a cable back on but at least this way I will have the parts in case whoever owns the car after me wants to go back to stock. I am such a great PO.....:ugh:.
 

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PJ, pictures as requested.
Nice Work.. Double Chrome Rings looks sharp..You kinda have to do the tach ...matching gauges are always nice. That's a cool Mod....come on 160 MPH that's going to get you into trouble:yup: staring you in the face
The only problem that I see if you decide to use one of those Fancy Electric Power steering units the ECU uses speedo as speed sensor. That something to consider
Plug it :veryhappy
 

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PJ, that is perfect. I will take it. Just let me know how much for the part and shipping.
Thanks!!
John Bartnick wants one, too. That will make 3. I will see Earl tonight after supper (he likes to work late) and get the estimate.
 

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John Bartnick wants one, too. That will make 3. I will see Earl tonight after supper (he likes to work late) and get the estimate.
If it's not too inconvenient I'd like one too. I'll pay for cost + shipping.

And if you'd rather not mess with it I'm OK with that too.

Thanks!
 

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Just came back from Earl's shop. It will be $10 a piece plus shipping.

The plug will be made of aluminum and it will have correct groove for O-ring. Rather than a slot for the attaching tab, it will have a groove all around. The plug will be slightly chamfered at the front for easier insertion. Also there will be extra groove on the outside end for easy grip if it ever has to be pulled out from the transmission.

You will PayPal money to Earl when shipped when we will learn exact postage cost. Earl or I are driving to Port Huron, MI every 2-3 weeks, so if it is not very urgent, the stuff could be sent from there which would avoid international shipping cost. Jeff, you are the only one with immediate project, so if you want the plug quickly, I can send it from Goderich, no problem. Let me know.

In a meantime, please everybody PM me your postal address.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Just got the tracking number for my tachometer, it is due to hit my shop next Wednesday :veryhappy.
 

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All right folks, Earl has made first plug, and he asked me to check it on my car before he makes the rest of the plugs. I had to put my car on a jack stands and crawl under to remove the pinion and try the plug. Hint, hint?
 

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All right folks, Earl has made first plug, and he asked me to check it on my car before he makes the rest of the plugs. I had to put my car on a jack stands and crawl under to remove the pinion and try the plug. Hint, hint?
Hmmm, I like your version because it's lighter for racing. Can you get cooling fins machined in there too? Lol....
 

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Discussion Starter #56
I have shipped all plugs today. They are marked as "Sample".
Shipping cost were $1.49 for padded envelope + postage $8.36 (small package air, 3-5 working days).

John, Gary, Lindsay, Ken, Jeff:
Please PayPal $19.85 directly to Earl (machinist) at [email protected].

Thanks
Money Sent: Again my thanks to both you and Earl.
 
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Payment sent. Thanks very much for making these and including me in your production run. You guys rock!
Ken
 

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Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
Tachometer Install

The tachometer is now installed in my car. The new unit fit into the old housing with no modification to the housing. I used the exact same method as I did for the speedometer. The 5" adapter ring from Speedhut and the black inner bezel from the old gauge was used to create the proper diameter and thickness to be able to use the old chrome ring. This time it was extremely difficult to get the old chrome ring to snap over the combined thickness of the housing lip, 5" adapter, and black inner bezel. I eventually used an old butter knife that I keep in my shop. I got the ring installed around about 270* of the assembled gauge and then stuck the butter knife in vertically and hammered the butter knife around the circumference until the ring snapped on. It took me about 2 hours of fighting with it and swearing like a sailor until I figured out the butter knife trick. I used 3 round grommets to pass the wires through the old slot that is in the back of the housing. I left all of the wires long this time because I didn't know exactly how I wanted to wire it up. My original thought was just to use male and female spade connectors going from the old wires to the new ones. It turned out that there were three locations on the back of the dash where the old wires ran to so I just unplugged the old wires and wired up the new gauge to the old locations. So the three I was able to connect using female spade connectors were the switched 12V, the ground, and the gauge lighting. The fourth connection was the green tach signal input and for that I did use a male spade connector crimped onto the old wire after I cut off the old connector. The new gauge is extremely stable since it is driven by a stepper motor and a digital signal. The one weird thing is that the pointer will stay at the rpm that the gauge last saw just before you shut off the ignition. So if the car was idling at 1000 rpm when I turn off the key the pointer will remain at 1000 until I turn the key on again. In the pictures you can see the new blue crimp on connectors. The two white wires are the gauge lighting wires, the red wire is the 12V switched wire, and the 2 black wires are the grounds. You cannot see the green signal wire in the pictures. Some of the pictures are a little blurry because I was trying to hold the camera still at very slow shutter speeds so that I could take the picture with no flash. The pictures were taken before I put the steering column back up in place so that the steering wheel was was not in the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
More pictures
 

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