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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My GT came with an automatic. How strong are these trannys? I am thinking about the 3.4 engine swap sometime next year and dont know what tranny if I go that route. Feedback please on manual or auto trannys... including how difficult to swap. Thank you
 

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crazy opeler
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The automatic in the gt is a GM part that was used on some of their larger engines. It is very sturdy and could take the abuse of a 2.4L motor. I have had 3 Automatic gt's and other than a leakey oil line the automatic's never had any problems.

I also have a question on this subject. Was the automatic fitted at the plant in euorpe, or was it dealer installed, I have heard conflicting stories, I know that the ac was dealer installed but if the auto trans was then wouldent there have been a bunch of brand new manuals laying around the dealers garage?

Chris
 

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Had to be factory

The Kadetts, at least, had to be auto's from the factory. The floor pan is completely different than the 4-speed ones. Manta's with auto's have no provisions for clutch cable's in the firewall, and I'm pretty sure GT's are the same.
 

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crazy opeler
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I have only owned gt's(I would buy a manta but I have never seen one for sale;))
The gt auto or manual has the exact same floor pan. The GT's that I have had with automatics had the mount and hole for the cable already there. Also the autos and manuals used different cross members but both had the mounting holes for either one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If the floor pans are the same for the manuals and the autos... Is there a difference in the tranny mount? and I would assume that there is a different console also? Any other diffs (beside flexplate vs torque converter!)
 

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crazy opeler
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>If the floor pans are the same for the manuals and the autos... >Is there a difference in the tranny mount?

*****yes thats what I ment when I said cross meber,
the autos and the manuals have differnt mounts. But the holes to mount either transmission are present in every car.

and I would assume that there is a different console also?

******where there is that round rubber booty in a manual there is a mini plastic shift consol that tels you what gear you are in.

Any other diffs (beside flexplate vs torque converter!)

*****the brake petal is differnt(wider), There is a detent cable to downshift, and I believe the hole to mount that cabe too is present on the manual. There is a mount that holds the detent cable. The autos have a differnt radiator, the auto radiator has an oil cooler built into it. Driveshaft is differnt, and one of the most important differnences that most people forget is that the manual has a needle bearing that fits in the end of the crank shaft, the auto's do not have this and you need to add that if you are converting from auto to manual.
 

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The TH-180 Opel automatics were built in Strasbourg Germany. They were also installed behind 180 hp 6-cylinder engines, so they're pretty tough.

However, why not just use the TH-700R4 4-speed auto with your 3.4 conversion? You get the benefit of a lower 1st gear (3.06) and an overdrive of .70. So you can run a numerically higher rear axle ratio to improve acceleration, but have the OD for better highway cruising and top speed. With a 4.10 rear axle ratio, you'd still have a 2.87 final drive!

The 700-R4 is only 4 inches longer than the TH-180, and uses the same output shaft, so it shouldn't be too much work to fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I would go with the 700 R4 if I decided to keep it an auto... I would love to swap in a T5 but am unsure as to the mods to put the T5 in my auto console. I realize that either way the drive shaft needs to be shortened and I have read about this in other posts.

Also the clutch pedel needs to be added.

Sorry about the cross member thing opelgt73, I read your reply too fast and missed it. Thanks
 

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crazy opeler
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What 3.4L are you talking about? Did you mean 2.4L or am I missing something? I have been out of opels for a while:(

as far as the transmissions I still think it is better to use the Getrag with opel motors, and if you can hawlk the money get the kit from Gil. I got one for the last gt that I restored and it was bolt on, every piece was included and it worked flawlessly. You can also get a Getrag unmodified from Germany for about $150 plus $hipping.

There are posts in the Yahoo classic oples list as to all of the modifications needed for the T-5
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The 3.4 I am refering to is a 93-97 Camaro engine. Sorry I wasn't clear.

What is the "Yahoo classic oples list" that opelgt73 referenced?

The documentation I am going off of is what Mike Pilkenton put together regarding his 3.1L GM V6, Borg Warner T-5, Mustang-Eating Opel Gt paper. In this paper he said the the T-5 matches up the Opel auto cross member well but did not document if any interior console mods were necessary.

Anybody know how to get ahold of Mike Pilkenton?
 

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crazy opeler
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The list I am talking about is at

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/classicopels/

It started with the armory group, then they made the Egroups group, then yahoo bought Egroups so now it is Yahoogroups.......anyway it is basicly like this group only you get all of the messages in either digest or individual form in your email. Or you can read them directly off the site, but the interface is not nearly as good as Gary has set up here and it can be tricky to find past articles.
I like this forum way better than the yahoo one, but they have mamy more members, I hope people start switching over.


Chris
 

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opelgt73 said:
...I like this forum way better than the yahoo one, but they have mamy more members, I hope people start switching over.
Chris
Thanks, Chris. Actually we currently have 808 members, 17 more members than the yahoo list. Some prefer to receive emails rather than visit a web site.

Once it is released, the new version of this program has a updated FAQ module. The moderators will be able to pull important posts and add it to a FAQ. This will help with the common questions that keep popping up and is one of many additions coming down the pipe.
 

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My current GT was an automatic (no fun), so I yanked it out (saved it), and it's real easy to put the 4spd in. flywheel, clutch, bellhousing, 4 spd drive shaft (longer), manual pedals (bolt right up, clutch cable (holes right there) and away you go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Where do yo get the pedal assemblies? Is is a completely diff unit (gas, brake and clutch)?
 

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The clutch and brake pedal, along with the mounting bolt, is what you'll need. Should not be hard at all to locate a used setup. Everything under dash is correct for mounting pedals. Gas pedal is not affected.
 

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Auto Conversion

A fellow here in Calgary (John Warga) has an automatic GT he is contemplating converting to a Getrag 5-speed. He pulled the pedal assembly from a '70 Kadett at the PYP, and compared it to my GT, and it appears to be identical. So that is another potential donor. HTH.
 

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Ok, so I'm actually doing the conversion from auto to manual right now.

The problem that I'm having is this:

The spring in which we thought was the clutch return spring seems too short... So my buddy took the e-brake spring, and tried to put that in for the clutch return spring. It seems that either way, he can't find anywhere to hook the spring on to, on the frame (or is it the transmission?)

I know we should have taken a better record of this work, but it's one thing that's slipped... Otherwise, things have gone relatively well.

So does anyone have a picture of where the clutch return spring hooks? Along, of course, with a picture of the spring... Thanks! Really need this, I'm hoping to drive the car this evening! :)
 

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the answer you're looking for is, the end attaches to a tiny hole in the trans crossmember, straight back from where it attaches to the clutch arm. You may need to clean the trans crossmember to see it, but it's there.
 
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