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Über Genius
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For the battery acid concern, line the whole compartment with some of that "flex seal" stuff.

For a connection for the negative terminal, weld a bracket with a bolt on the end. That way you can replace the bolt if it corrodes and you still won't compromise the integrity of the metal on the car. In a worse case scenario, you'd cut the bracket and add another to it.
 

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Opel Intern
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A bracket could be good. I might have to wait until I am back in a capable shop in Oregon before I make a more permanent solution. For now I might end up using a bolt tacked to the floor of the car.

Both batteries arrived today! 22Ah AGMs with 220 CCA each, dimensions ~181mm x 170mm x 76mm. That means I *should* have at least 15mm for a mounting strap/plate going over the top of the battery before it runs into the package tray. Hopefully this turns out to be a super stealth battery solution.

I am still thinking about where to locate the batteries. I have a feeling I should try to get both of them on the passenger side, but I have no idea what the corner weighting of my car is at the moment. Whatever the weighting may be, I am taking mass from outside the wheel base and sticking it inside the wheelbase, an almost guaranteed plus for handling.

I'll take pictures of my Rev 1 mounts tomorrow and post them here. I have to wait until next week for the battery cables to arrive, but I'll be sure to post the full system once it is all assembled.
 

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I am still thinking about where to locate the batteries. I have a feeling I should try to get both of them on the passenger side, but I have no idea what the corner weighting of my car is at the moment. Whatever the weighting may be,I am taking mass from outside the wheel base and sticking it inside the wheelbase, an almost guaranteed plus for handling.
:D That's a good idea.. fur sure
A bunch of late model cars has the battery mounted on the pass. side Low .
The fuse box is over on the drivers side.
 

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Making some progress

Life got in the way for the past couple of days, but I am back to work and I have all of the parts necessary to complete my modification.

First, I started with the battery hold downs. For this, my plan is to make a ring which snugly holds the battery in the X and Y translations and then a hold down which prevents movement in the Z direction.

Today I built the rings and I used 3/4" plywood to make them. Its what I had in the garage and shouldn't have any problems doing this part of the job.

So off to CAD (Cardboard Aided Design)! I got the battery out and an old cereal box from the recycling. Traced the battery onto the box, drew some bolt holes and what I assumed would be a thick enough ring for some satisfactory strength and cut out the cardboard.

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I then traced that onto some wood and started cutting the shape out. ~15 minutes into this endeavor, I realized that I was being a doofus and the setup time on my CNC machine would more than make up for the time invested in making this thing since I would eventually have to make 2 of them.

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Off to CAD (Computer Aided Design) and within ~2 minutes I had this:

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Ship it off to the CNC machine, spend about 5 minutes in CAM, about 5 minutes warming up the machine and getting it auto-zeroed, and ~5 minutes of run time. Repeat the setup and run time, and less than 30 minutes after my eureaka moment, I have there sweet looking things:

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I haven't bolted them into the car yet, but it was nice to have a CNC machine today.
 

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So off to CAD (Cardboard Aided Design)! I got the battery out and an old cereal box from the recycling. Traced the battery onto the box, drew some bolt holes and what I assumed would be a thick enough ring for some satisfactory strength and cut out the cardboard.

I then traced that onto some wood and started cutting the shape out. ~15 minutes into this endeavor, I realized that I was being a doofus and the setup time on my CNC machine would more than make up for the time invested in making this thing since I would eventually have to make 2 of them.


Off to CAD (Computer Aided Design) and within ~2 minutes I had this:

Ship it off to the CNC machine, spend about 5 minutes in CAM, about 5 minutes warming up the machine and getting it auto-zeroed, and ~5 minutes of run time. Repeat the setup and run time, and less than 30 minutes after my eurka moment, I have there sweet looking things:

I haven't bolted them into the car yet, but it was nice to have a CNC machine today.
Not to burst your bubble but the same thing could have been accomplished in my shop with way less equipment and a LOT less work. It's called, "Hey Sheila, I need you to cut something out for me for your Opel." :)

Harold

P.S. They do look nice though. :biggthump
 

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Batteries Mounted in car and + Wires Run

I made some more progress today which I think is looking pretty good.

First I placed the battery frames in the car, and then shimmed them until they stopped rocking on the floor and had plenty of support around the mounting bolt locations. I then marked the locations for the bolts on the floor and drilled some holes in the floor for the bolts. Right now this is my temporary solution until I get to Corvallis where I can fully weld around the bolts, turning them into studs.

I fastened down the frames to the floor, turning the bolts into stud which could later be used to strap down the battery.

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After the frames were in, I shimmed the floor under the batteries so they would sit flat and then I strapped in the batteries. I used some nylon webbing to strap them in. I am not fully sold on this strap, but I need a strap which is ~3mm in thickness in order to clear the package tray above the batteries and my metal fabrication facilities here in DC are severely lacking. The straps took tension nicely and show no signs of being over-stressed, so I think they will do the job, if only temporarily.

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Then my favorite part of the whole caper, I got to mounting the battery cut-off switch and the final wiring. I didn't take any photos of the installation of the battery cutoff switch, but you can see in in the lower right hand corner of the photo below. For the wires, I am using 4 AWG wires for each individual battery and 2 AWG under the car to the starter.

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I forgot to get a short stainless bolt from the hardware store for the ground stud, but I should be able to finish this project up tomorrow and move on to cleaning up the fuel system in the car.
 

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I have a pair of motorcycle AGMs ...



The plan is to run the batteries in parallel to each other, effectively doubling the capacity and cranking amps of a single battery. I'll run a single battery cable under the car next to the brake lines and on the opposite side of the frame rail as the fuel line, terminating at the starter. .
Yes, I'm pretty sure that Ah was doubled.

And my EFI system will have a GPS plus a RTC unit, so it should be fine sorting out what time of day it is in the log files.
I've installed several GPS units in loaner/RTO cars.
The patristic draw with EFI,digital radio and GPS usage was like 10ma.
 

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The patristic draw with EFI,digital radio and GPS usage was like 10ma.
Yeah. That's what I am worried about. After ~3 months, one of these battery's capacity will have been completely drained. If I am going to be putting my car away for the winter, having that cutoff switch is the easiest assurance against killing another battery.

I think I'll permanently wire in a Deltran hookup too.
 

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I really like the twin small battery approach. A few months ago, I decided to go the single D51 Optima approach. It is 26 lbs.

SR1 Battery Tray - Fits Optima D51 Yellowtop Battery

Just posted as an alternate fairly compact approach with single D51 battery. I decided to put it on the driver's side in order not to interfere with the muffler, as it extends about an inch below the floor.

The nice part about having the prefab tray was that it served as a template to build around, and I didn't yet have to buy the actual battery yet since my chassis is still on a rotisserie.

I mounted the wooden rear platform, and then inserted the box up from below until it just touches the wood, then completed the welds.

Later it was sealed and closed in. More pics later.
 

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Opel Intern
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I really like the twin small battery approach. A few months ago, I decided to go the single D51 Optima approach. It is 26 lbs.
I looked at the D51 but I couldn't get it to fit without 'heavily' modifying the floor like you did, or raising the package tray. My goal was to try and keep this process away from the welder since I currently don't have easy access to a welder.

Today I finished up the installation, adding the ground bolt and a Deltran jumper for float charging. The stock package tray still fits on top, meaning I still get some room for my dog to hang out in the car with me :).

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I've made some modifications to the installation I described in Comment 43. When I first did the install, and went with the Miata battery I was curious as to whether something thinner like the Odyssey PC680 would have enough capacity to do the job. But I didn't want to spend the money and take the chance that it wouldn't crank the motor. Recently I some some used, like new PC680s, come up on E-bay, at about half the new price and got one. Plus when I was doing the engine upgrade from 2.0 to 2.2, I put in a permanent magnet starter from OGTS, which I understand draws less current than the stock starter. I did a bit of fabrication with some brass angle to get the battery terminals where I wanted, but then I was able to use the same tray and cover as before, but with shorter hold down bolts. And the thinner/smaller PC680 seems to crank the motor just fine. I also added an aluminum lid, attaching to a frame around the battery with 1/4 turn fasteners. The whole thing sticks up about 3/4" above the package tray. Pictures below.
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I was thinking of a relocation as well, but ended up with a small 15 pound battery in the stock location (Odyssey PC680).
 

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Can Opeler
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Yep I’m running a 9lb or 11lb Braille battery in the stock location on my 1970, and I have a small power sports battery in my 72. Can’t remember the size, but it was $30 lol
 
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