My 70 GT's doors are "sagging" to the point where they don't close whithout lifting them by holding the door handle up, is there a way to fix this problem?
new hinges? rebuild them? any suggestions?
Before you order new doors / hinges you might want to see if they only need adjusting. My Wife and I just went through the same thing with her GT. It's not that hard to adjust the doors.... it's just a time consuming, trial and error thing. Here is the "Cliff Notes" version.
Remove the window crank, arm rest, lock knob and door lever cup. Remove the door panel. On the inside of the door, toward the front you will find two (2) large allen head screws (4MM I think) at each hinge. Loosening these will allow you raise and lower the door to line it up with the striker. The holes in the door (I believe) are slotted so you can also slide the door forward and backward. We found it easiest to completely loosen one bolt on top and one on the bottom then use the remaining two to do the rough adjustments. Ging was on the wrench and I was the one lifting and lowering the door.
The time consuming part is that you cannot access the bolt with the door closed. It's one of those..."move the door, tighten the bolts, check alignment,move the door, tighten the bolts, check alignment, repeat as necessary" kind of things.
We had to do this due to water leaking into the interior.
Hopefully your hinges are not bent.
Guyopel gave us a cool tip to make sure the seal is good. Put baby powder on the door gasket, close the door and blow with an air hose. A bad seal should be obvious, and cleans up easily.
Hope this helps
Dan and Ging
Its rare to see a GT hinge pin go bad, most times the metal door positoner will bend up and jamb the door and funtion of the hinge itself. Have you tried to adjust the door, since you say you have to pick the door up to latch it, is the margin around the door equal when not latched completly? From most of my experiences with GTs it is just an adjusment, usally cause by a bolt loosening up. Just my 2 c.s
When I had my GT in the body shop, you could see the "play" in the hinge by lifting the door when the door was open. I got a good used set from OGTS and the play in the door dissappeared. If you just need to adjust it, great, go for it, but if the play remains, replace the hinge. Just my 0.02
Im wondering if thats all I need to do with my door. One day when I opened my door a STRONG wind caught it and swung it open so hard it put a crease dent in the front fender and it hasnt lined up well when you close it ever since. I have a new door and hindges, but I guess a quick adjustment might do the trick.
Thank you so much for taking the time to respond to my post on the GT door problem, I will take your advise and try and adjust the hinges to the striker first, it does sounds like that could take care of the problem if not, well....I'll go for plan B.
Again thank you.
Have a look at the hinges and notice that there is a grease nipple on the pivot pin. A shot of grease in there from time to time will slow down any wear on the pin quite a lot.
My drivre's door was badly worn ( due to lack of grease!) so I removed the old pivot pin, reamed out the hole with a K-Line Chevy valve guide reamer and turned up a new pin out of a high tensile allen head cap screw. Result a door hinge better than new!
Adjust your door to the opening to obtain an equal margin around the perimeter and at the same time flush with the body. Then adjust the latch to the door. Unless when it is closed the magins are equal in that case adjust to the strike and latch.
I am in the process of cleaning up my door hinges and thought I would share this. I decided the only really good way to do the job was to take the hinges apart. I used a small cutoff wheel in my dremel and carefully removed the tack welds that held the pins in. Then using a good strong drift pin and a little wd40 I drove the pins out. I will now sandblast and clean everything for reassembly. The question I had was, how to reinstall the pins, without having to weld them in, which I didn't want to do, because I want to paint everything first to get the best job, and then reassemble. At first I was going to use external retaining rings, but that meant cutting the groove in exactly the right place, which you really need a lathe to do, and I don't have one. So I went to McMaster and found 8mm shaft collars with set screws. Now after painting and reassembly I will just slide the collar on and tighten it up, leaving almost no clearance for the pin to move. I also have the ability to take them apart anytime I need to. If the pins are worn, as stated earlier in this thread, reaming to a larger size and using a stock pin from the HELP rack at a local parts shop is also an option, I would just have to purchase different size collars.
The hinges I have are not worn, but I ran into another problem that I have not made a decision on yet. The collars that I bought are 8mm ID and also 8mm thick. Well there is only about 5mm of shaft that sticks through the hinge, so the set screw is right on the end of the existing pin. I have two choices. Splice a piece of 8mm rod onto the ends of the pins so they are longer, or try to find longer replacement pins. The pins have a nice grease groove cut into them and I think that pins with that and also the right dia. and length will probably be very difficult to find, so I am leaning toward the splicing thing.
The hinge at both top and bottom is double ply thin material and I don't think thinning it more would be a good idea. I would be cutting into only one of the layers and would almost have to cut right through it to do any good. I have a 120mm long 8mm bolt that I am going to use to increase the length of the pins. I will cut it into 4 pieces to use. I also realized that just like our roller rocker situation, the pin should remain stationary and in order to do that I have to weld the set screw collar to the hinge bracket. The original pins had knurling at the top which is not very deep and I could tell that the hinges had seized in the past because 3 of the pins had broken welds, which meant the knurling was also spinning inside the hinge bracket. The knurl would therefore not prevent the pin from turning in the future if there is any friction at all between the hinge and the pin.
Came up with a good solution to the short pin problem. I took a 100mm long 8mm bolt and cut the threads off so I had an 8mm pin with a hex head to hold onto. I put a collar right on the end so that the set screw just caught the end of the bolt. This left about 3mm of collar sticking out past the end of the bolt. I used my belt sander ( good 'ol shopsmith from way back) and sanded the collar 3mm thinner, right up to the set screw, but did not break through into the threads. No when I install the collars and the pins they are exactly flush with the end of the pin, and I put the sanded end of the collar on first so the set screw is down next to the hinge, which gives me plenty of bite on the pin with the set screw. I am sand blasting the hinge sections now, I just took a break cause it's too friggen cold in the garage where my blaster is. I will take a picture when it is all done. Set screw collar will be welded to the hinge.