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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Has anyone purchased/used the Oil Temperature and Voltmeter Gauge from Opel gt Source? And if so could it be mounted in a gauge pod? I'm looking for the diameter of it, as my clock actually works and I don't want to change it. Thank you, Jarrell
 

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Depends on your gauge pod, but if you are going to run an actual gauge pod, they are pretty big, but why run a factory looking gauge when the pod isn’t going to look like anything factory. It’s the same size as the clock, but just as long as the other two gauges fuel/temp and ammeter/oil
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Depends on your gauge pod, but if you are going to run an actual gauge pod, they are pretty big, but why run a factory looking gauge when the pod isn’t going to look like anything factory. It’s the same size as the clock, but just as long as the other two gauges fuel/temp and ammeter/oil
True, but as times have changed and I seem to have learned a little bit,( dangerous, I know). I've been looking at Air fuel gauges and a 2 pod system that could be mounted under the dash. That was why I was looking for the Diameter of them. My interior is factory except for some wood grain on the console and an Arm rest. Open the hood and it's a wiring nightmare, Just glad I've kept notes on what I did. Here is what I've been leaning towards https://www.amazon.com/HOTSYSTEM-Un...=1571279521&sprefix=Gauge+pods,aps,174&sr=8-8 or something along those lines. Just curious. Thanks, Jarrell
 

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The only issue I see is the mounting of the GT gauges is from behind, whereas those are mounted through the front and have a ring nut around the outside. You could use two VDO gauges that are close in style to the factory style of gauges
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The only issue I see is the mounting of the GT gauges is from behind, whereas those are mounted through the front and have a ring nut around the outside. You could use two VDO gauges that are close in style to the factory style of gauges
True, but besides Duct tape, Gorilla glue works pretty darn good. I'll keep looking and wondering. Thanks, Jarrell
 

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Has anyone purchased/used the Oil Temperature and Voltmeter Gauge from Opel gt Source? And if so could it be mounted in a gauge pod? I'm looking for the diameter of it, as my clock actually works and I don't want to change it. Thank you, Jarrell
Jarrell, I got the gauge from OGTS. I use it instead of the amp meter because I am running an 80 amp alternator. The Oil temperature gauge still needs to be hooked up, it comes out on the bottom of the oil pump, easy enough to get it connected, still haven't done it yet. You should be able to add it to the area below the dashboard. Since they are VDO gauges, it should be easy to find a holder for them. I took out the original clock, it actually works.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Jarrell, I got the gauge from OGTS. I use it instead of the amp meter because I am running an 80 amp alternator. The Oil temperature gauge still needs to be hooked up, it comes out on the bottom of the oil pump, easy enough to get it connected, still haven't done it yet. You should be able to add it to the area below the dashboard. Since they are VDO gauges, it should be easy to find a holder for them. I took out the original clock, it actually works.
Bob
Bob, that is why I was looking in my other post for pods. I would like to keep my clock, plus taking the instrument panel out is a pain. I may have to do it anyway to put a newer stereo in,(a kenwood that plays mp3s, Winter project).
Question, where on the bottom of the oil pump does it go? I haven't crawled under the car except to put in a new fuel pump in a while. My old bones don't get up from the cold concrete like I used to, LOL. Thank you, take care, Jarrell
 

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Jarrell my clock stop working so I replaced with the Oil Temperature and Voltmeter Gauge from Opel GT Source. Easy install after you get the dash removed. The oil sender gets inserted in the oil pump area. You remove the hex (square) plug that is for priming the pump located on the left side (driver side). Be careful, that hex bolt can be a booger to get off. If you have a 6 point socket, they work the best.

No sooner did I replace the clock and OGTS came out with a replica of the old clock :haha: I would prefer to have the clock because its original and I really don't need to know the oil temp (I guess). I plan to replace with the clock that OGTS sells now, just don't want to remove the dash just yet.

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Jarrell my clock stop working so I replaced with the Oil Temperature and Voltmeter Gauge from Opel GT Source. Easy install after you get the dash removed. The oil sender gets inserted in the oil pump area. You remove the hex (square) plug that is for priming the pump located on the left side (driver side). Be careful, that hex bolt can be a booger to get off. If you have a 6 point socket, they work the best.

No sooner did I replace the clock and OGTS came out with a replica of the old clock :haha: I would prefer to have the clock because its original and I really don't need to know the oil temp (I guess). I plan to replace with the clock that OGTS sells now, just don't want to remove the dash just yet.

Dan
That removing the dash is why I wanted to go with Pods. Thanks about the info on the oil sender, [gets inserted in the oil pump area. You remove the hex (square) plug that is for priming the pump located on the left side (driver side). Be careful, that hex bolt can be a booger to get off. If you have a 6 point socket, they work the best]. I may just end up with 1 pod for the air/fuel meter. Thank you, Jarrell
 

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I am repeating, but the sensor for the oil temperature screws into the oil pump where the priming hold is. At least that's what I think it's called. It is the only hex plug on the oil pump, just remove it, replace with the sensor, run a wire to the gauge and you are done.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am repeating, but the sensor for the oil temperature screws into the oil pump where the priming hold is. At least that's what I think it's called. It is the only hex plug on the oil pump, just remove it, replace with the sensor, run a wire to the gauge and you are done.

Bob
Thank you Bob, just having a Senior moment, thank you for your reply. Jarrell
 

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I am reviving an older thread. I am having a problem with both the voltmeter/oil temp gauges maxing themselves out over the coarse of the drive.

I have recently installed this oil temp/voltmeter gauge and have done short idle runs in the garage. Gauges seemed to work. I took the car out this weekend to make sure all my fixes worked and no new problems appear before making the 11hr driver to Carlisle this upcoming weekend. I have 2 issues.

Problem 1- the volt gauge reads 16v+ and never comes down. Since i removed the clock i used the + power wire that originally went to the clock. Battery shows 14.9 when running. I have the ( -) ground going to the back of speedo guage

Problem 2 - the oil temp gauge slowly climbs to 150c (300f) and stays there. I have a remote filter and oil cooler in the nose. The outside temp has been around 60. Water temp never gets over 180-200. the VDO site isn't much help on troublshooting and most seems related to finding a sender that matches the gauge ohm output. Since this is a set from OGTS i figured they should be matched already. I have the (+) 12v on an open spot on fuse panel. I believe both gauges shared a ground. This signal wire runs 1 continuous wire to the sender at the oil pump location.

It has been over a week since i installed this gauge and i am pulling the instument cluster tonight to verify wires, ground, ohms, etc. Anyone have an insight on a glaring obvious issue that i am missing?
 

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Purchased OPGTS guage in December 2001. Do not not remember what 12-volt positive wire I used for voltmeter.
Gauge reads less voltage than battery voltage due to resistance loss in wire circuit(s).
If I ever open up instrument panel, will route a new larger AWG wire for more accurate voltage signal.

I have a remote filter and oil cooler in the nose.
Is there a thermostat for the oil cooling system.

Amazon Reviews suggest history of sending unit failures.

OPGTS used to list oil temperature sending unit, PN 5054. Can't find it on their website.
300°F/ 150°C M14X1.5 VDO PN 323 055:
 

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  • In my case gauge reads more voltage than what the battery is putting out. The clock power source was a 20ga wire. I don't remember testing the clock power wire for 12v. I will add that to my things to check tonight.
  • There is no thermostat for the remote cooling system.
  • After i get back from Carlisle i might try a new sending unit. Maybe i just got a crap one. Ill recheck my signal wire tonight with the meter.
-OGTS still sells the 5054 sending unit.
https://www.opelgtsource.com/search/2775/details
 
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