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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, you've been there. Cruising the freeway or a nice country road. Real nice day. Not too hot. Not too cold. And you want a little airflow. Maybe not as much as rolled down windows would provide (plus that might be a little too much buffeting going on once you're up to speed.

But the dash and foot vents, plus opening those rear windows would be great. Just perfect.

Right. Like we're going to pull over just to open them. You know the story. Tip the seat way back so you can reach the window lever for both windows, while at the same time serving back & forth trying to keep the car on your half of the road.

Question is; has anyone installed remote window openers on those two little back windows on the GT?

Only car I heard of that had something like that was a Nissan Sentra back in the early 90s.

So...... anyone altered their GT to accommodate this?
 

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Lots of the newer minivans have rear windows that open like that. They just pivot out a few inches. Be easier to find one of these(Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth)

DAN
 

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Old Hippie;
If you mean that you have the fixed 1/4 windows and would like the flip out style, you're in luck. Rodney Killingsworth, of the TX Opelers, has a piece that allows you to get a set of the flip out windows and use them in your fixed window GT.
 

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Opeler
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I trecently built such a mechanizm for my GT, looslyu based on the published design mentioned above. A couple of comments:

- I initially thought the Chrysler mini-van rear power windos would be perfect. I picked up a set at the auto wreckers. They consist of a lever that looks a lot like teh orginal Opel unit with a cable mechanism that runs back to a motor that can be hidden away. The problem is that ythey are designed to mount on a flat piece of metal that is parallel to the window glass. All teh metal around the GT window is at a significant angle to the glass. I tried a bunch of positions to mount the actuator and didn't come up with anything I liked.

- I went ahaed with a modification to the published design that i ended up being quite pleased with. The biggest change is that rather than mounting the motor in the middle of the rear storage area where it is in the way of the spare tire and anything else you try to put in there, I mounted the motor off to one side bolted to one of the inner fenders. I then used a couple of 3/8 inch copper tubes in a big loop under the rear sheet metal to get back to the windows. Inside the tube I used 1/8 inch steel cable wrapped in 1/4" high-density polyethelene tubing, which was a nice fit inside the copper, and seems to slide with very little friction. The motor was one of the chrysler mini-van rear window actuators I mentioned above (since i already had it). My only problem with this is that the motor is just barely strong enough to fully open both windows. If i were to do it again I would use a more powerfully regular power window motor.

If anybody is really interested, I can post some pictures.

I installed a couple of relays (from a Nissan) to do the switching so I could use a very small mini-toggle in the dash. Since I had the relays in place, and an alarm system (an Alpine unit) that has extra buttons on the remote, I also wired the alarm to the window relays and I can now open and close the windows from my alarm remote. This is a truley useless but neat feature.
 

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Please post the pics, it may spark some future projects for others.
 

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Opeler
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One more possible source for parts: BMW 3-series coupes have remote openers for the rear windows. Probably way too much $$$ from a dealer, but might be worth a junkyard scrounge.

-StephenM
 

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That is some good info. Thanks fellow opel-maniacs! Since my 71GT is bare metal w/ no interior, it sounds like the perfect add on project. I'll leave my 69 alone since that will be my first one to finish "stock".
 

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Here's something from my model race boat community that may help in the driveline area. To get the propellor adjusted for max drive, we use a 3/16" flex cable similar to a speedometer cable. This can be slid inside a tube, copper, steel, or my preference stainless steel. If the cable is well greased and inserted, no further lube should be required. One thing, there has to be a shallow bend in the tube or the cable will whip around inside the tube if it is straight. There alot of ends that can be soldered to the ends of the cable for conections to the motor and mechanisms for hooking up the two. On my boats, I use a square drive off the engine and a long tapered threaded nut at the other end for the prop shaft. The ends can be attached by sleeves with set-screws also. These are ready available at most hobby shops that have accessories for model boats. Also the cable can be had with 1/8" diameters, but I'm not too sure about the availability of the attaching hardware.

Ron
 
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