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Nice!

Nicely done, Mark . . . now all we need to do is convince someone with an original ARA A/C GT to post similar pics of that installation here for reference!

. . . anyone?
 

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The only thing I didn't see a pic of, is the covered hole in the belly pan to drop the battery out. During the body work on Willit?, I had the body shop put a 1/8" X !" steel strap completly around the hole on the inside and hinge the front edge. The panel was originally only held in place with sheetmetal screws.
 

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The only thing I didn't see a pic of, is the covered hole in the belly pan to drop the battery out. During the body work on Willit?, I had the body shop put a 1/8" X !" steel strap completly around the hole on the inside and hinge the front edge. The panel was originally only held in place with sheetmetal screws.
I heard about that, people putting a trap door on the belly pan to get the battery out. On Stealth I don't have that problem since I made a large cutout on the belly pan and installed 1/4" metal strips to maintain the curve. I needed this cutout in order to fit the new Mustang II rack I am going to use. After installed and all things taken care of, I will place a piece of plastic over the area for servicing if required. This is what they do on most import cars now.

But not to take over the thread, this complete installation does not look too user friendly when servicing brakes and other things.
 

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Nicely done, Mark . . . now all we need to do is convince someone with an original ARA A/C GT to post similar pics of that installation here for reference!

. . . anyone?
Here are some pictures of an ARA GT kit installed. The only change made to the stock ARA system was the addition of a Sanden compressor to the stock compressor mount in 1990.
You don't have to cut a hole in the belly pan to remove the battery; just provide loops in the hoses to the condensor and it will swing up out of the way to allow battery changes without breaking hose connections(see photos). The condensor coils are mounted to the front of the radiator bulkhead with only four sheet metal screws, so the battery can be replaced in only about five minutes.
There is no intereference of the hoses/lines with the master cylinder since the compressor is mounted on the pasenger side.
 

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Here are some pictures of an ARA GT kit installed. The only change made to the stock ARA system was the addition of a Sanden compressor to the stock compressor mount in 1990.
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I like that compressor setup. I have the piston type and have yet to find an adjuster that will work on it ( and aside from that it has put a dent in my hood from lead foot ). What did you have to do to make that mount on the original ARA bracket and what model is the Sanden compressor.
 

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I like that compressor setup. I have the piston type and have yet to find an adjuster that will work on it ( and aside from that it has put a dent in my hood from lead foot ). What did you have to do to make that mount on the original ARA bracket and what model is the Sanden compressor.
I just center drilled some ~1" round steel bar to match the hole size in the compressor mounting tabs (3/8" bolt I think), then cut the bar to fit snugly between the compressor tabs. Using the bolt and bar, I then test fitted the compressor, aligned the clutch pulley with the drive pulley and tack welded the steel bar to the top of the old ARA compressor mount. Rechecked alignment and then finished welding the bar to the mount.

I also cut off about half of the top of the ARA mount before finally mounting the compressor since it wasn't needed and was just in the way. The steel bar is welded very close to where the top plate butts into the vertical member of the mount. I cut a small belt tensioner from 3/8 steel plate to go on top of the compressor (I'll send you a template if you want it).

The compressor is a Sanden SD-508. There are smaller ones available now, but at the time this one was about as small as you could get. I maintained all of the ARA idler pulleys. I just wanted to get rid of that York compressor, since it always intefered with the hood closure and had a rough engagement.
HTH
Bob
 

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Thanks, but I can see how now, just like an alternator, pivot mount on bottom with a strap on the top. I still would have to have the ARA adjuster so it wil be awhile before I get back to it. I just saw your information and it looks great, I dislike the piston type bracket it must weigh about 20 pounds and almost impossible to work around in that area it is so tight. So when I get all the stuff between radiator and motor removed and see what gives with the pulleys and why they won't align with the adjuster, I'm going to really consider changing the piston compressor out for your neat little package. Thank you for the information.
 

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this is mike brooks here , i have the gt pictured in this thread with the gm a/c system . responding to namba209 about the hole for the battery my car does not have one . the car has had a front nose replaced at one time and did not have hole recut , i use a group 51 honda civic battery that will clear the condensor . .... also i do not have any starting issues , hope this helps anyone out there with an a/c car
 

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The piston type AC pump posted by Dennis Texas, sure doesn't look like the original ARA setup I've seen before. The AC pump was mounted down low on the engine really close to the oil filter and has caused a problem or two because of the location. I'm wondering if this was a mod to the original ARA setup. I do like the Sanden pump I put on Willit?, really simple to mount. One of theses days I'll get it working, after I repair the plastic enclosure for the evaporator unit. :D
 
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