GT with Bad Surface Rust

And what's a Mikuni carb??? Is it good??

I think he said it was a Mikuni carb -- Japanese, I guess. The PO said it was a good match for the engine. At any rate, he made it fit which has to be worth something.

Bill and the FrankenOpel
It's not rust, it's brown oxide paint.

Brown oxide paint makes a world of a difference over rust! You don't happen to have a pic of the engine bay off hand do you???

A Mikuni carb, is the japaneese equivalent of the weber. I don't know about the down draft versions, as I have only seen the side draft versions. The side draft versions are identical to the weber.

I am just curious, I see a lot of old cars sitting out whith that kind of surface rust covering the body. Is it possible to fix a car like that? If so how do you keep the rust from returning?

probably a few ways to go about fixing the pitting. one way i have seen done. seen the car before and after but not during. blasted the whole car down to bare steel, i can't remember which first, but he used a etcher/sealer over the whole car and used a heavy catalist primer. the primer filled in the pits, then he sanded it down every time, sprayed a heavy coat again, sanded more, until eventually all the pits were filled in with primer.

hey bill
mine looks worse than that to start with
and as greensmurf says etch prime then prime then prime then prime and so on and you get there

by the way jared how did the avast work out for you ok i hope!

baz: it worked great, thanks alot!!! found a total of 6 infections.

The only bad thing about POR-15 is paying for shipping liquids. The products are expensive, but work GREAT. It's as close to lifetime paint as I've seen.

I really like the Marine Clean. A little bit cleans a lot. It'll get rid of most the of the rust, oil and stains in one application.

Let me add my 2cents woth on the rust issue, from my experience
in the service (21 yrs as a air frame structual mechanic). The metal will take sand-blasting well, as long as you don't stay in one place long. After cleaning out the sand, a good brush-on / wash-off metal etch will secure the surface. Any micro-pitting is easily filled with using primer, your choice on that. I prefer red-fill primer for that, but multi-coats of 2-part will work. I don't sand between coats, I just lay seveal down, then sand it smooth. That is a personal habit and other painters have they're own method. My 71-GT has been bare and rusty for 8 years (no cancer). Now that I'm single again, it is going to get the above treatment, after I make a rotating body stand (mentioned in another thread).

I guess the cost of shipping is nominal. It cost me just over $10.00 to ship from NJ to inSANe Diego for a gallon of Marine Clean and Metal Ready. The things I like about this stuff is that it is water soluble and biodegradable. You can recover the Metal Ready and reuse it, and the Marine Clean can be diluted up to 10:1 and it's still strong. I plan to do the interior and underside of my GT with it. Their paint stripper is really great too. Just spray it on wait a couple of minutes, then hose it off with water and about 90-95% of the paint comes off. The warnings must be followed though, and use the gloves they send, or get a box of the latex gloves, you definately need them.

Ron