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TonyB
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Hello,

I recently bought 1971 Opel GT. I notice that the passenger Head Light will not lock in place in either the open or close position. What part control this locking ? Also My head light seen to lock on High Beams (Blue light is on) The turn signal control does not seem to turn it off. Ay ideas ?

Thanks

Tony
 

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the locking mechanism is on the back side of the headlight bucket...open them half way and u will be able to see it...
 

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GT Head Lights

as for the head light locking into place, the left side controls the right side when opening and close the lights. The cable from the control lever goes to the control rods which roll the headlights over, the left side is in a fixed position to the cable, the right side control arm is adjustable. Close the the head lights, with the left one in a locked position loosen the bolt where the right control arm attaches the "block" on the end of the left rod. Manually close the right head light till it locks into place (by pushing down on the light to close it). Tighten the bolt. Then try opening the lights with the lever they should open and the right should lock into place when the left one does. This is just on of many adjustments pertaining to the GT headlights.
Here is a short cut to GT headlights that I found using the "search" at the top of the page, http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3764&highlight=headlights+GT , (maybe it will work and take you there) if not just hit the search button and type in GT Headlights or for your other problem with the turn signal you can also use the search to find what others have done, Good luck, The Headlights can be a real pain some times but its mainly adjustments.
It also sounds like the PO may have taken them out for one reason or another and has the wires crossed on the micro switches (not dimming) or you have lost a ground on your signal switch. Work that search button it can do wonders.
rk
 

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GT Head Lights

as for the head light locking into place, the left side controls the right side when opening and close the lights. The cable from the control lever goes to the control rods which roll the headlights over, the left side is in a fixed position to the cable, the right side control arm is adjustable. Close the the head lights, with the left one in a locked position loosen the bolt where the right control arm attaches the "block" on the end of the left rod. Manually close the right head light till it locks into place (by pushing down on the light to close it). Tighten the bolt. Then try opening the lights with the lever they should open and the right should lock into place when the left one does. This is just on of many adjustments pertaining to the GT headlights.
Here is a short cut to GT headlights that I found using the "search" at the top of the page, Repairing GT Headlight Rotator Mechanisms , (maybe it will work and take you there) if not just hit the search button and type in GT Headlights or for your other problem with the turn signal you can also use the search to find what others have done, Good luck, The Headlights can be a real pain some times but its mainly adjustments.
It also sounds like the PO may have taken them out for one reason or another and has the wires crossed on the micro switches (not dimming) or you have lost a ground on your signal switch. Work that search button it can do wonders.
rk
Hi. I've been working on the headlights on my 1970 Opel GT, and I followed your advice, above, about locking the left (driver's side) headlight in the closed position, then locking the right (passenger side) headlight, and then connecting the control rods. I had to adjust the cable so that it was at the end of its length, but both headlights now close and lock when the handle is pulled backwards. Unfortunately, though the lights will lock simultaneously in the closed position, they won't open and lock. They rotate the same amount, but not far enough to lock in the open position. What's the next adjustment to make? Thanks for any comments. SteveinSLO
 

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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Be sure and check the bolts that hold the flipper mechanism in place. I have had the experience that if a bolt is lose it can also cause locking in place to become an issue. Check the bolt under the fender that you can reach first without removing the buckets, if that does not work then the buckets have to come out. If you have never done that there is a video on how to do it as well as some tech tips on the forum. Also the rod adjustment you mention can also be over adjusted to one side or the other which may also cause the lights not to properly lock in place. Check those two easy to locate under the fender bolts first to make sure one has not come lose which over time happens and then try readjusting the rod, then the buckets.
 

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Be sure and check the bolts that hold the flipper mechanism in place. I have had the experience that if a bolt is lose it can also cause locking in place to become an issue. Check the bolt under the fender that you can reach first without removing the buckets, if that does not work then the buckets have to come out. If you have never done that there is a video on how to do it as well as some tech tips on the forum. Also the rod adjustment you mention can also be over adjusted to one side or the other which may also cause the lights not to properly lock in place. Check those two easy to locate under the fender bolts first to make sure one has not come lose which over time happens and then try readjusting the rod, then the buckets.
Hi. Thanks for the suggestions. I had just finished taking the buckets out in order to replace the microswitches and all the wiring. I also replaced the metal strips that mount the headlight to the rotating mechanism and had a broken "birttle bolt" removed from the rotating mechanism (and replaced) in the passenger side headlight. So I'm pretty sure the bolts that connect the headlights to the rotating mechanisms were firmly installed.

In response to your suggestion I rechecked the 3 bolts that secure each rotation mechanism to the body of the car. I tightened them just a bit, but this adjustment did not change the fact that both headlights will now lock in the closed position, but neither will open enough to lock in the up position. I'm thinking maybe it would be better to readjust the cable so that both headlights lock in the open/up position (at least I'd have headlights then if I did the wiring correctly.) Still looking for a solution that allows me to get the headlight buckets closed and locked at one extreme and open and locked at the other.

Thanks again for the help. SteveinSLO
 

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When you say adjust the cable are you referring to the rod that connects the two buckets where you loosen a screw, in the middle, on the bottom of the piece shown in the picture, which allows an adjustment to one of the rods in or out a little? again you may just need to move the rod just a little to make a difference and tighten the screw back down. The only other thing is the way you shove the handle forward to rotate the buckets. For me it takes a little more finesse/ "shove it open/ put a little English on it" to get the lamps to open and lock correctly than to close them. However with that said if they won't close properly it is the adjustment as the" shove it" does not apply in the same way as closing is much easier than opening, at least for me.
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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Let me first say that I hate those dang headlights and think they're stupid idea. Over the past 40 years I've never had a GT with good flipping headlights due to the openings having been messed up by previous owners. Consequently, I have always kept my headlights in the up position and I rewire things so that the headlights come on with the Park lights.

That said, below are pictures from the Factory Service Manual(FSM) outlining basic adjustment to get the headlights parallel in all positions.

But, just because they are parallel doesn't mean they will latch. This is a function of the latching subsystem of the rotator assembly. The latches need to be very free moving and the spring intact and pulling with decent strength. The FSM doesn't mention anything about rebuilding them, but there may be a thread here on the site about how to do it. You really can't take them apart much because everything is rivet stamped together. You would want to clean them with ass-kicking cleaners and try to clean all the pivoting areas. I recently worked on a pair and soaked them in a rust dissolving solvent. I used POR15 Degreaser, which has acid in it, but you could soak them in a bucket of vinegar and water overnight. After all clean and tidy I worked Valvoline red grease into all the pivot areas with a brush and basically slathered the whole mechanism in a film of grease. They worked like new when done.

You could simply have worn out rotator mechanisms and they need to be replaced. It's impossible to get new mechanisms. It's hard to judge what constitutes "worn out", there's a lot of play and wiggle in the latches and whole assemblies in general. The best thing to do is to give them the thorough cleaning and lubing that I mentioned. Maybe replace the 2 springs with new ones.


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Have you watched Keith Lundholm's (aka opelspyder, who owns New Vintage Automotive) excellent videos on installing GT headlight buckets? The four YouTube video's in his "stuck" post seem to be suffering broken links, except the final one. So navigate to:
And then search for his other three videos.

Sounds to me like a simple linkage adjustment issue. The handle is stopping (perhaps the console slot is out of position?) before the headlights are fully open. Definitely start with the headlight buckets open.

HTH

Ps. This most recent poster, SteveinSLO, has in fact opened up at least one of the rotators. He followed my guide in the thread "stuck" at the top of this Forum to rebuild rotators.
 

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I wonder if he figured it out?
Man I hate cliff hangers LOL
 

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I wonder if he figured it out?
Man I hate cliff hangers LOL
I too would like to know the outcome of many of the posts that are not complete. Appears that some people get the answer and just move on leaving the great mystery unsolved.
 

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Wouldn’t it be great if everyone or even most OP’s just posted a quick little final post to report how things went on their their threads.
At present I have adjusted the headlight cable so that both buckets will just barely lock in the open position. My hope is that this will allow me to turn on my headlights when I move the control handle in the cab to the fully forward position. The downside is that I still can't get the headlights to lock in the closed position when I pull the control handle all the way back. I can live with the little white light and with the headlight buckets not fully closed. There doesn't seem to be enough travel in the cable to allow me to fully lock the buckets at both ends of the range of the control handle. In times gone by the headlights both fully opened and locked and fully closed and locked. For now, I've moved on to other repair issues with my Opel. It is unsatisfactory to not have the headlight mechanisms working as designed, but it's a problem I think I can drive the car with. Maybe in the future I can get the headlights dialed in better. Thanks for your help, everyone. SteveinSLO
 

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At present I have adjusted the headlight cable so that both buckets will just barely lock in the open position. My hope is that this will allow me to turn on my headlights when I move the control handle in the cab to the fully forward position. The downside is that I still can't get the headlights to lock in the closed position when I pull the control handle all the way back. I can live with the little white light and with the headlight buckets not fully closed. There doesn't seem to be enough travel in the cable to allow me to fully lock the buckets at both ends of the range of the control handle. In times gone by the headlights both fully opened and locked and fully closed and locked. For now, I've moved on to other repair issues with my Opel. It is unsatisfactory to not have the headlight mechanisms working as designed, but it's a problem I think I can drive the car with. Maybe in the future I can get the headlights dialed in better. Thanks for your help, everyone. SteveinSLO
I'm beginning to think one of two problems here. ( I could be totally off ) but.
I wonder if your not using enough force to allow the weight of the rotation to complete the roll over to the open or closed position and lock?
Or the actual mechanism that locks them is in need of a clean up and re grease.
I only say this as Mine were a disaster as well and would not only not lock open or closed but would literally hang up trying to go from the open to closed position.
here are a couple pics of before and after.
At the time I was involved in messing with mine there were no rebuild kits available so I had to deal with what I had which took some time but was well worth the effort.
I can now throw them open or closed with ease and with minimal force.
The important part of the procedure for me anyway was in fact the locking mechanism and springs were rusted badly and between the old grease, paint over spray and dirt those were not operable at all.
I also rewired everything and removed all the PO's bypassed stuff and put it back together with new micro switches
Hand Wood Gesture Wood stain Gas
Gas Helmet Personal protective equipment Auto part Metal
Paint Art paint Wood Art Painting
Wood Gas Auto part Circle Metal
Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Automotive lighting White
 

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The other thing you might look for is to see if the the hole for the throw arm is oblong/wallard out.
That will cause the same issue
 

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Can Opeler
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Also make sure your center console isn’t blocking it. My AC console makes it difficult to lock mine sometimes. The handle will bounce off of the slot in the console. I fixed mine by shifting the console and slightly bending the handle.
 

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Steve, When you talk about adjusting the cable I am assuming that you are talking about the bracket that holds the cable just under the hood - there is a small amount of adjustment there, however there is also a bit more adjustment where the two rods meet in the middle, that is the place where they can be taken apart. If you loosen that screw where you take the rods apart you can adjust the length just a little - if you have the two rods as close as possible then that may result in the buckets or one of the buckets not locking into place - so if you loosen that screw and separate the rods a little it will put more pressure on the closing function, to much and it can affect the opening locking function.
The picture was taken with the camera facing up - the right rod, passanger side becomes adjustable when you loosen that bolt which gives you just enough adjustment to possibly fix your issue, worked for me.




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