Anybody know what tool is needed to seperate the intake from exhaust manifold. Similar to a torks bolt but not quite. Also where can I get this tool, I spent 25 years as an aircraft mechanic and have never seen such a thing. Second question what is the easiest way to install a header after the engine is in the car or is it impossible.
Header and Intake bolts
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12 Little Corners .....
The intake/exhaust manifold bolts are "12-point" or "Tri-square" - the same size as the bolts that hold the camshaft sprocket on. A smaller version of the Head bolts. A well stocked "PowerBuilt" tool store display should have a set of them - 6mm; 8mm ; 10mm and 12mm. K-D Tools also supply them as numerous four-cylinder Fords also use them. You need a full set to work on your Opel CIH motor - eventually!
PS: If you just want to use the intake manifold just drill the heads off - as long as you don't want to use then again - though standard Allen Head capscrews can be substituted as the bolts have a standard metric thread on the lower end.
HTH
The intake/exhaust manifold bolts are "12-point" or "Tri-square" - the same size as the bolts that hold the camshaft sprocket on. A smaller version of the Head bolts. A well stocked "PowerBuilt" tool store display should have a set of them - 6mm; 8mm ; 10mm and 12mm. K-D Tools also supply them as numerous four-cylinder Fords also use them. You need a full set to work on your Opel CIH motor - eventually!
PS: If you just want to use the intake manifold just drill the heads off - as long as you don't want to use then again - though standard Allen Head capscrews can be substituted as the bolts have a standard metric thread on the lower end.
HTH
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185 Posts
Pep-Boys has sets of 4 for $15
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333 Posts
header
Rich, use a lot of penetrating oil when separating the intake from exhaust and while you have the intake off you might want to port it. There are a few people that install the header different ways so do a search for pacesetter . Some hammer in the firewall but most raise or lower the engine to install. I pulled engine and header all in one unit. Charlton
Rich, use a lot of penetrating oil when separating the intake from exhaust and while you have the intake off you might want to port it. There are a few people that install the header different ways so do a search for pacesetter . Some hammer in the firewall but most raise or lower the engine to install. I pulled engine and header all in one unit. Charlton
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3,460 Posts
On most of mine when separating the intake from exhaust, I ended up having to heat the exhaust with a torch and using an impact wrench to get the bolts out. The heat from the exhaust riser just about welds the ends of the threads to the exhaust manifold. The other alternative is to drill the heads off and take a punch and chisel, and knock the exhaust manifold off the intake. Put the exhaust manifold in a vise and use vise grips or a pipe wrench and use Lots of penetrating oil like "Charlton" said. They're a B***h. Good luck, and have patience. Jarrell
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I acquired a "together" manifold assembly last winter, set them out of the way and gave the bolts a shot of "blaster" every now and then. After a couple months and dozens of shots, I wanted my intake manifold. More blaster and vibration with a pneumatic needle gun (aka "scaler") got them apart. In situations like these, and there have been lots of them in my Speedway GT project, lots of patience and a bit of penetrating oil really seem to work the best. When patience wears out I tend to be rather torch-happy, careful use of heat is pretty magic, too!
Thanks For all the reply's
Well as it turned out auto zone had a set of 4 tri square bits for 12.99 so another tool was added to the collection. Installing the header was a breeze once I decided that the only way it would go in was to support engine from the top and remove the cross member and right side engine mount. It took about 2 hrs with no beating and hammering slid right in from the bottom with the car on wheel ramps. A little custom fab work to connect collector to muffler and the car will finally be on the road.
Thanks jerseyopel for the header and the nut and washers for the steering wheel.
Well as it turned out auto zone had a set of 4 tri square bits for 12.99 so another tool was added to the collection. Installing the header was a breeze once I decided that the only way it would go in was to support engine from the top and remove the cross member and right side engine mount. It took about 2 hrs with no beating and hammering slid right in from the bottom with the car on wheel ramps. A little custom fab work to connect collector to muffler and the car will finally be on the road.
Thanks jerseyopel for the header and the nut and washers for the steering wheel.
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6,782 Posts
Often the bolts are too seized and the 12-point heads too worn to get them loosened, no matter how much penetrating oil you use. One solution is to drill the heads off with a 1/2" drill bit, which allows you to separate the manifolds. Then the "stick-up" of the bolt shank can be gripped by a vice grip. Replace them with a nice set of Allan-head socket-head cap bolts (any decent fastener supply store will have them), and you won't have the problem in the future.
HTH
HTH
O.K. folkses, this is a recording. You gotta use anti-sieze compound on the bolts, OR, you're gonna have to contend with siezed bolts again. Heating and cooling over and over, plus a bit of humidity and you got rust welded fasteners, you can't get away from it.
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Anti-Seize
Yep! Gotta use the silver NICKEL Anti-Seize stuff too - the Copper one will last a couple of months at exhaust heat ..... the Govt. suplied Mil Spec stuff is the best ......
Also clean out the bolt holes in the ali intake manifold, tap the threads in the exhaust one AND smear the shanks of the new capscrews with plenty of Nickel Anti-seize too. Replace the gasket between the manifolds with a new one too.
Then you have a "fighting chance" next time.
Yep! Gotta use the silver NICKEL Anti-Seize stuff too - the Copper one will last a couple of months at exhaust heat ..... the Govt. suplied Mil Spec stuff is the best ......
Also clean out the bolt holes in the ali intake manifold, tap the threads in the exhaust one AND smear the shanks of the new capscrews with plenty of Nickel Anti-seize too. Replace the gasket between the manifolds with a new one too.
Then you have a "fighting chance" next time.
I was Lucky
I lucked out here, mine came apart real easily. However this engine has zero time on it since a complete rebuild. When working with stubborn bolts or screws for that matter, I have a special head for my pnuematic riveter that allows me to attach a bit holder or socket with the air pressure real low and a wrench on the shaft of this attachment the rapid tapping while turning will remove almost any fastener even striped out phillips screws.
I lucked out here, mine came apart real easily. However this engine has zero time on it since a complete rebuild. When working with stubborn bolts or screws for that matter, I have a special head for my pnuematic riveter that allows me to attach a bit holder or socket with the air pressure real low and a wrench on the shaft of this attachment the rapid tapping while turning will remove almost any fastener even striped out phillips screws.
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