Heated rear glass?

Yea, mine doesn't have the heating strips. I wonder how much that option was back in the day. On the topic of the headlight switches, i think i would rather have the switch setup as on the gt-j because i'd like to be able to ride down the road with the headlights up but not on. But also, there are three switches down towards the very bottom of the console - one that looks like the running lights switch above, "brake", and "flasher". When i turn on the switch that has a similar icon as the running lights switch, nothing happens. Is that for the interior light (also doesnt work )?. What is the point of the "brake" button? And then the flasher button is not a problem. Moving to the steering column...im about to make a trip to charlston to look at some opel gt, but was wondering-is the flasher unit/high beam switch the same from 68-73? thanks

On mine, a 72 Gt, I have the rear window defroster glass, but the plugin is broken on the window and to fix it I'd have to pull the glass which I don't want to do at this time. I had thought about using it as a fuel pump cut off switch, but I had already re-installed the dash, so that was out. My dome light has never worked and after fishing for the better part of an hour to find the wires for it, I gave up. So, here's a switch that could be used for something and an idea hits me. Lights in the tunnels. I got a set of Leds from Advance Auto, the peel and stick kind, 2/pkg and wired them into the plugin for the rear window defroster light and now I have some soft lighting in the tunnels. You have to reach over and turn the switch on and off, but hey it's better than nothing. Now if I could figure out how to get some brighter lights for the switches. The light is so defused you have to feel for them. Jarrell

soybean said:

Now if I could figure out how to get some brighter lights for the switches. The light is so defused you have to feel for them. Jarrell

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Same problem -so here is what I did. Mounted two small 12 volt
LEDs on top of the diffusser and powered them off of the door switch and the
rocker switch on the right of the emergency flasher. Door opens- foot lights, interior light and panel light go on. close door- off they go. Driving at night, if I want the panel light on - hit the switch- it is wired through the igniton fuse line power supply so they only work when the ignition is on in that case. That way you can have the gauge lights on or off independently of the diffusser panel light.
BTW- tried to wire the LEDs through the gauge light switch but it won't work unless you have the rocker switch on full brightness. Current load or something kept the LEDs from working.
I did ALOT of thinking about this when I did the complete re-wire last summer

rear defog & clock fix

microswitches, fusible links, clocks, charging circuits, ignition switches, and rear defoggers - my favorite subjects and the bane of the boys from bosch. seem to recall reading somewhere that the rear defog "option" for GTs was like $29. in that case, you got JUST what you paid for - every service bulletin i read on rear defog was pretty bleak. even after trying to repair, i was only able to get one or two of the elements to heat. found that a small squirrel cage fan worked better. all gts came with the "squiggly line" switch for the rear defog. if you have the indicator light below the driver vent, your car was equipped. if glass doesn't have the heating elements, its been replaced and the wires may be just hanging around, waiting to make a short.
the small switch at the bottom of the console (with icon of light and slanted lines) is for driving/fog lights. i used this in conjunction with a relay (the switch can't/won't take full power) to wire up my hellas. worked great.
one of my greatest victories was to repair a clock.
if you'd like to learn my method, read on.

tools needed: jeweler's screwdriver set, emery board/cloth, compressed air, nail polish, toothpick, watch oil.
-use compressed air to blow away crud from back of clock
-CAREFULLY unscrew the attachment screws on back of clock. take care not to mess with the speed adjustment screw.
-use emery cloth/board to clean contacts in the flyaway points
-wet toothpick with watch oil and just touch to the needle bearings at each end of the reciprocating spring axle. don't overdo it or you'll ruin it.
-plug in to test. flyaway points should separate as soon as they encounter juice, which winds the spring and gets the reciprocating wheel moving. the clock will run for a few minutes until the points once again make contact. then the whole thing SHOULD start over again.

my clock worked for years after this.