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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well here is my problem the motor mounts do not go over the stock anchors and needs to be changed or fabricate some new ones. But there should be any easy solution.

The oilpand does clear the cross member and such so its just the mounts im having a problem with

In the picture you can see the way im having problems now

The posts on the cross member are too narrow for the stock v6 mounts to be used the old opel mounts cant be use because i need a diff angle and to drill new holes

So i was thinking on the new mount to change the degree to it matches up perfect like the stock opel mount to the cross member but have the degree just right so that the other side of the mount is flush with the engine it would have to be fabricated but i think it maybe easier than new cross member

Please help me decide if this would work check out the picture
 

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Iceman, go to the download section of this website under technical downloads and check out Phase 2 of my V-6/T-5 transplant. I gives you a detailed idea of what I had to do and what I ended up with. You can go this way or not, your choice. But either way a fair amount of fabrication will have to be done. Also you may want to check out Phase I in "My Journal" to get an idea of what I had to do to get the engine to run on a test stand. HTH.

Ron
 

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One of the things I should have done was to take the measurements of the new engine mounting plates I made up, and post the part numbers of the rubber mounts I used. When I get the new exhaust system installed, it's still under construction, I plan to pull the package out and redo the computer wiring as I integrate it into the Opel harness. When I pull the engine I'll post pics and dimensions of the new mounting plates. Again as with the other Phase dimensions stated, this is what worked for me and is only a reference.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Bad news

I just tried out my idea and it worked pefect it was gonna be even i cut the mount so the post would clear and all i had to do is drill a hole in the top so that i can but a bolt on top to hold it down.

Then i realized that one post was longer than the other i was angry. One is eight inches and the other 10 inches.
I then went to homedepot to buy square tubing and nothing all they had was a very weak gauge 25 paper thin practically.

So if you can i would like to know the exact dimentions
and where you bought the tubing i dont wanna give up cause everyone loves this car when they see it. And i want it to run.
 

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Iceman, I can't give you the exact dimensions of what I built right now. Then engine /tranny package is in the car right now waiting for the exhaust guy to finish the headers. If you read my Phase II, you'll be able to build what I did by using the intermediate pieces dimensions and the straight sections can be measured easily with a measuring tape. You cannot use the stuff at Home Depot for the reason you stated. Check out the Yellow Pages for a metal supply house and get the good stuff, 1" X 2" medium wall thickness square tubing. My vertical posts are fairly short because of the engine mounting plates I had to build for the computer controlled engine and the required sensors. Yours may be different depending on the engine, whether it is a carbed or FI and how much is computer controlled. You don't have to build exactly what I did, but can modify to suit your requirements. In order to center my engine I had to cut out the some of the wiper well and foot well. I did take out more than I had to, based on what was done by others before me and using the pics available. This is/was stictly trial and error. If you build your subframe like mine you may also want to get some 2" X 2" or 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" square tubing to slide the 1" X 2" into and weld them together. Look at the finished subframes at the bottom of my Phase II and you'll see what I mean. One thing you have to take into consideration is that all production lines are not exactly the same for all products, there are some clearances built in. My subframes were built for my car and they may not fit in another GT without some minor trimming. If you need any more assistance, by all means contact me. I'm here to help.

Ron
 

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Iceman,
I have found a nice source for heavier gauge metals that should help you also. I own a cleaning company and one of our customers is a metal-fabricator who recycles a lot of metal that he doesn't need or can't use. Every gauge metal is available in flat, round, bar, or tube. Most sizes are just right for what you are looking for. Too small for the fabricator but just right for us! Most metal-fabricators have recycle bins for the metal they can no longer use. A bit of dumpster diving can yield huge dividends. It probably wouldn't hurt to ask first, otherwise cover of night and a flash light should get you what you need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys

Thanks for all your advice.
I check out the picture of your subframe and i love the idea.
I will do an almost exact replica.
I used a 2.8 carb model that i changed into a F I ( hope it works)

and come tp think of it there is a metel shop near by rod iron and such stuff illcheck it out

This engine mounting thing is whats holding up progress.


Side note***
Is it just me or doeseveryone experince over writing when you make a mistake on the post?
 

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Iceman, make sure the tranny shifter is centered in the console hole, then make the rest of the subframes from there. The up and down of the engine can be made with the vertical supports to the engine subframe. If you read the text on the Phase II download, you'll see the mistake I made. Also if you have the FI type engine, with the air intake plenum, you'll have to trim the wiper well. If you're not in a hurry and can wait for Phase III in progress now, you'll be able to see how much of the footwell and wiper well I removed, although I didn't have to take out as much as I did. I've got a dog show this weekend, leaving this morning, won't be back until Sunday evening. If you want, I can put up some pics of the sheetmetal I removed when I get back or Monday morning for sure.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No worries

There is no rush i have till the end of the year to get my car going after that ill give up and sell it. lol not that its worth much now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
one question so should i just put in the tranny and do the rest and worry about the engine later? Cause i though it was best to put the engine up then tranny but if you say tranny first will do.

Thanks for your advice maybe now i can get the ball rolling.
 

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Iceman, Just got back from a weekend dogshow, didn't have a chance to read you last post before I left. I would suggest getting the tranny subframe made first so you can center the shifter in the console hole. Then, after you make up the engine subframe and mounting plates you can figure out where the vertical post will go on the crossmember. If you look in my photos, you will see that the V-6/T-5 will go in from the top with the wheels on the ground. Just follow the text in Phase II and you see how much of a hassle it is to get everything bolted in place. After you get the subframes mated up to engine and tranny, put the package in the car and bolt up the tranny and its' mount in place, then you'll see where the foot well and wiper well need to be trimmed to get the engine centered in the hole. The engine will not bolt up to the frame until you can center it in the engine compartment. I'm still waiting on the headers to see if I have to cut more of the footwell. But like I said before, if you want a couple of pics, I can load them tomorrow in the a.m. Any other questions, just ask.

Ron
 

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It's a day late and after the dog show a bunch of dollars short, but here's the pics of the footwell and the wiper well I took out. As can be seen, I took out more sheet metal than I needed to make the engine fit. The foot well pic shows the Fiero headers visible, but I won't be using them, they're cracked.
 

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Here's the wiper well. Again, I took out more than I had to, but it will be easy to close up. As a thought, I plan to put and access panel in the foot well to be able to get the bolts in and out for the headers.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the pics

Well looks like a lot of work but seems feasable.
I was going to install my transmission the other day But realized
that i need a custom member for that so i gotta hold off tilli get more money thanks for the help you have been giving me.:D
 

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No problem, glad to help. One thing you may want to do for the tranny mount. Measure the distance from both rear tranny mount holes to the center of the hole in the console. That's where you can figure out how to build the mount. I had to drop the mount 3/4 of an inch and back 2 1/2" . Nathan Acree has a real good looking mount, I think it's in the photo section. Once you get the shifter centered in the hole the location of the vertical posts on the engine is easier to locate on the engine subframe.

Ron
 
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