She's alive. Jumpered 1 and 2. Now to figure out the root of the issue. New regulator on the way from OGTS.
I never had a battery life problem, but then the only electrical modification I ever made was new speakers.Check your battery voltage with the engine off, then start the car and do it again. You should read about 12.5V engine off and 13.5v or higher with the engine running. If you don't, you're not charging. If your battery reads below 12V it either needs to be trickle charged or it's toast. Sometimes you can charge a bad battery and it will say 12.5, but when you check it the next day it's below 12V. It's not holding charge.
In my not very humble opinion, Opels are battery killers. Every GT I've ever had(five) ate batteries like a teenager munching fries at MacDonald's. I'm so paranoid that I hook up a charger the first thing after I get out of the car.
One of two things, get a new alternator to regulator harness from Gil and it will come with a fusible link, buy a new one from auto parts store and splice it in. I like the Mantas style where you can connect that harness with a terminal connection. It is how I am going to wire all mine from now on.OK I jumped the fuseable link to ground and the amp light comes on with the key. I'm assuming the fuseable link wire is blown even though the fuseable link wire looks completely fine. I'll have to get some fuseable link wire to replace it. Correct?
Yes I jumpered from the regulator plug to ground. That makes sense that the fuseable link is good. Now what?The fuse blocks are suspect on a lot of older cars. Heating will loosen the staked connections, tarnish and corrosion builds up, that heats, and that heating creates a vicious cycle of deterioration. Same things happans to the stab-on connectors and their crimping to the wires. Sooner or later something heats critically and wires break, and spark, etc. Suonds like what happened to you fuseblock.
Our 1900 has a couple of inline fuses beside the fuse block, becasue some of the riveted fuse terminals got hot and just fell apart and the PO patched in around them.
BTW, fusible link wire is normally soldered in place, not crimped. Fusible link wire normally runs with a bit of an elevated temperature and that heat may create an unreliable situation with crimped connections, just like the fuse block and stab-on connection heating issues mentioned above. So if you don't have a soldering iron and skills and are tooled up for crimping, then an inline fuse is a better option IMHO.
And, when you jumped the fusible link wire to ground and the generator light came on, did you jump that wire to ground at the regulator connection? If so, then the fusible link is good.