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Opel Rallier since 1977
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Just sharing experience and pointing out that air leaks can prevent the Sniper from ever 'learning' properly, honestly because I would hate to see this setup do anything but start and run 100% great for you; we are all truly pulling for you, Eric.

What with welding for over 45 years, welding roll cages in rally cars, and being a tech inspector for a rally series where inspecting welds is part of the job, the very poor welds just jump right out of the picture.
The bird dropping appearance says there is no good weld bead whatsoever across the tops areas of those 2 joints, so it is prime area for leaks. The mig welder was just touched and touched to those top areas and random drops of metal deposited. You can see a good weld bead below the weld droppings. It is almost impossible to get good welds in a tight space like that without dropping the exhaust down, as you cannot even get a MiG welder tip into that tight area at the correct angle.
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Opeler
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1,061 Posts
Discussion Starter #262
Just sharing experience and pointing out that air leaks can prevent the Sniper from ever 'learning' properly, honestly because I would hate to see this setup do anything but start and run 100% great for you; we are all truly pulling for you, Eric.

What with welding for over 45 years, welding roll cages in rally cars, and being a tech inspector for a rally series where inspecting welds is part of the job, the very poor welds just jump right out of the picture.
The bird dropping appearance says there is no good weld bead whatsoever across the tops areas of those 2 joints, so it is prime area for leaks. The mig welder was just touched and touched to those top areas and random drops of metal deposited. You can see a good weld bead below the weld droppings. It is almost impossible to get good welds in a tight space like that without dropping the exhaust down, as you cannot even get a MiG welder tip into that tight area at the correct angle.
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Thanks Mark, I appreciate it. I hope I didn’t come across poorly. I’m looking at a proverbial finish line and it can be painful to keep hearing of things thing can stop me from accomplishing this. And honestly, I’m starting to run out of patience and steam on getting this car done. The more I look at it or spend time under it, the more I feel like I start to focus on things requiring more attention or see the bad stuff and it can be quite deflating.

I say all that to say, I’m not looking for people to spout rainbows & butterflies all the time, but positivity goes a long way, and I’m feeling like I’ve gotta be due to catch a break on this.
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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1,961 Posts
Thanks and understood, Eric. Seriously, we are all wanting you to succeed. My latest O2 installation has been a big headache and an eye-opener just how bad the errors can be with exhaust air leaks. So I just wanted you to be aware too.

One good note: If there are small air leaks that effect the O2 sensor readings, they will tend to cause bigger errors and problems when the computer wants the engine to run rich, which is at moderate to full throttle. So if you are putting around for a while, that ought to be less of a problem... if you indeed have any problems at all.

Weld issues like this from exhaust shops is not rare; they are not welding up submarine hulls after all LOL. It just has to hold mechanically and not leak too much. But it is indeed frustrating for have to fret over things like this. Someday, let me tell about one of the few 'perfeshunul' garage jobs I had done for some ball joints 20 years ago.....
 

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Opeler
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1,061 Posts
Discussion Starter #264
It’s alive. Well, sorta...but basically.

I got the Sniper and all the necessary requirements components installed a couple of weeks ago. After chasing down a few gremlins, it fired up and idled. Yea, it only idled because I couldn’t get the car in gear. That auto trans fluid level is very sensitive. Once I got enough added, it would finally go in gear. One thing that stuck out to me was that I was that it fired right up on the initial couple of start ups, but then I began having a heck of time getting it to start. The starter was making a noise and would intermittently stop & grind when cranking. I order a new starter from OGTS and swapped it out. Unfortunately, the new starter would crank and crank and crank and crank, but would never fire. It made ZERO sense. So, tonight I put the old starter back in and after some cranking it finally lit the motor. I ended up taking it up and down my street for its first drive powered by the Sniper 2300. It obviously needs to be tuned, but I’m thrilled that it ran under its own power after undergoing a massive change over in the last couple of months.

The starter issue is very puzzling though. The car should start easily, but it doesn’t. And it wouldn’t fire at all with a brand new starter. What gives?!?!??

I’ve got some work ahead of me though. After all I did with the transmission, I’ve still got a leak from it, which really stinks. I need to address the starting issue, which is quite perplexing. I can edit my advance curve with my distributor through an app, even though I don’t think that’s the issue at hand. I need to figure out why it’s so hard to start, and quickly. One of the main points of going EFI was to make it easy to start and that’s a big issue right now.

Eric
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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The old starter cranking then grinding sounds like the Bendix gear being kicked back out when the engine fires once on a cylinder, but does not catch and fire on all cylinders so as to actually run; seen this before. That can happen when the grease on the shaft where the Bendix slides gets old, or the Bendix gear one way clutch gets faulty.

Now why the new starter would not fire at all is different. Do you have all of the stock wires connected to the starter? There is an ignition bypass function in the original wiring: When the starter solenoid engages, it closes an extra contact in the solenoid that passes 12v from the big lug on the starter solenoid out that extra contact and wire, directly to the stock ignition system so as to bypass the original resistor wire. So one possibility is that the new starter and/or its wiring is not right and you are not getting 12v to the Sniper when trying to crank with the new starter.

I'd put a voltmeter on the 12v supply to the Sniper and make sure it is going to full battery voltage when you try to crank.

Sound like progress Eric!
 

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Opeler
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1,061 Posts
Discussion Starter #267
So, it ended up being a couple of things.

After driving the car, even for the short time I did last night, it was vastly better today. The whole self-learning and self-tuning thing is nice, even if it isn’t a cure for everything. It fired up pretty easily today with the old starter, and I spent some considerable time going through settings and adjusting things. Mostly, it needed a small re-tune and the throttle plates opened up a bit. The car was flooded with fuel yesterday, I had to dry the intake out before I even tried to fire it up last night. With all the cranking and the bad habit I/we all have of giving the pedal a stomp/pumps when cranking, it shot too much gas down there and it’s not meant for that. Plus, the Sniper unit shoots a priming pump of gas when the key is turned on. I had the key on and off quite a few times yesterday, when trying to get it to fire. Learning curve and lesson learned.

So after all that, I felt like the car was in a good position...it was starting easy and idling well, was running very smooth...I took the old starter out and out the new one in. It cranked strong and fired right up.

After thanksgiving is over, I’m going to try to get it in to an exhaust shop and get that mess straightened out. Like Mark mentioned earlier in this thread, a small exhaust leak anywhere close to the o2 sensor could throw some things off.

I still have no interior in the car and my oh my did the ride last night make me feel like the suspension needs addressed too. Winter projects are stacking up already...but hopefully the woes I have had with motor are behind me.

Eric
 

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So, it ended up being a couple of things.

After driving the car, even for the short time I did last night, it was vastly better today. The whole self-learning and self-tuning thing is nice, even if it isn’t a cure for everything. It fired up pretty easily today with the old starter, and I spent some considerable time going through settings and adjusting things. Mostly, it needed a small re-tune and the throttle plates opened up a bit. The car was flooded with fuel yesterday, I had to dry the intake out before I even tried to fire it up last night. With all the cranking and the bad habit I/we all have of giving the pedal a stomp/pumps when cranking, it shot too much gas down there and it’s not meant for that. Plus, the Sniper unit shoots a priming pump of gas when the key is turned on. I had the key on and off quite a few times yesterday, when trying to get it to fire. Learning curve and lesson learned.

So after all that, I felt like the car was in a good position...it was starting easy and idling well, was running very smooth...I took the old starter out and out the new one in. It cranked strong and fired right up.

After thanksgiving is over, I’m going to try to get it in to an exhaust shop and get that mess straightened out. Like Mark mentioned earlier in this thread, a small exhaust leak anywhere close to the o2 sensor could throw some things off.

I still have no interior in the car and my oh my did the ride last night make me feel like the suspension needs addressed too. Winter projects are stacking up already...but hopefully the woes I have had with motor are behind me.

Eric
I'm sooo happy to hear it's up and running. The light at the end of your tunnel will only get brighter from this point on!!!!
 
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