I have said “trying” because I have been fighting various issues (ie: torn rubber on mounts, vacuum leaks, bad pump jet, etc) causing me to chase other problems down first. I am using the tool pictured below to balance the carbs.First, I'm not clear what you mean that you're "trying" to get the carbs perfectly balanced. How are you balancing them? Once properly balanced, they shouldn't need adjustment for quite a while unless you change the placement of one of the carbs, e.g. removal and reinstall.
Second, I don't like suggesting a particular setup because every engine will respond differently, but since you asked......Manual transmission, Jets: 145 Mains, 190 Air Corrector, F8 65 Idle, 50 Pump. 0 Exhaust Bleed (I think). I think the last standard emulsion tubes I was using were F16, I'm using some customer made tubes now. I don't use the cold start circuit. I have an electric fuel pump and let that run for few seconds, then pump the pedal 3-4 times when cold, and it starts immediately. I'm using a Compu-Fire ignition. I'm very intrigued by the ignition you bought but I like NOT having a cap and rotor too much. I'm probably running a little rich and need to put the AFR meter on again, I've made some recent changes.
I’m in Indianapolis area.Hey JHJ.... I was re-constructing your engine's static and dynamic CR to see if that could be a factor in your low off-line torque. I guessed at a flat top at zero deck, cam up with 9.6:1 static CR... and then found your final pistons were for 9.5:1. So that agrees well.
Taking you cam and making an educated guess on the cam's ramps from the duration at .050" lift so as to figure out dynamic CR, and with that came up with 7.2:1. That makes good sense with the cam you have and the static CR that you have.... but it does not agree at all with the cranking compression numbers of 180 psi that have been reported. You ought to be seeing in the 135-150 psi range, depending on altitude. May I ask at what altitude you are at, or which general town/city so I can look up the altitude?
Also, I see that you got a new torque converter. Do you know what stall speed they designed it for?
I’m wondering about that too. I sent a message to the company that built it to see what it is. I can’t seem to find the paperwork for it so far. I don’t want to guess, but I have an idea of what is was.The numerical work is to get to the dynamic compression ratio (DCR) which is the main indicator of your low RPM torque below the 2500-3000-ish RPM range. To figure that, one needs the static CR (SCR, which is the 9.5 number you got from Wiseco) and the intake closing angles (ICA). The ICA that you need is that where the intake is 'effectively' closed, and where the piston is no longer pushing fuel-air mixture back out of the intake valve, but is actually building compression.
That 'effective' ICA is measured in crank degrees and will vary from something like 40-45 degrees ABDC in a stock engine (ABDC = after bottom dead center; i.e. the piston is moving up on the compression stroke), and up to 80 or more degrees ABDC for a radical race cam. That effective ICA will vary some with the steepness of the closing ramp on the cam profile. Usually, an ICA based on the advertised duration numbers will get you close, with advertised duration being typically measured at .006" lift. But I have found that with cam profiles with a slow opening and closing ramp, then you need to use a bit earlier ICA to be accurate.
If you can get the effective ICA close, then you can very accurately predict cranking compression numbers and DCR, and have a very good idea on how the engine torque is going to be at those low RPM's. So based on your cam's .050" lift duration, and figuring it had fairly slow closing ramp, so I added 55 degrees to the .050" lift duration (222+55=277), and worked out the effective ICA. I started doing this in the 70's all by hand, but now I cheat and put it all into a computation tool by Pat Kelley, and then use the Wallace Dynamic CR Calculator tool to see the effects of altitude and get the predicted cranking compression.
Sooo after all that explanation... I came up with an effective ICA of 72 degrees ABDC for you cam assuming a slow closing ramp, and with all the computations it spits out a DCR of 7.2-ish, and a cranking compression of 135-140 psi at 1000' altitidue... and you are close to that altitude in India-no-place. 7.2 is not low but is not high either. It is a bit better than the DCR for a stock smog-era grocery-getter engine. What IDK is the same parameter for a stock 2.2L.
Now the question on the torque converter stall speed has to do with at what RPM it begins to lock up, and that works in with the cam. If you have too low a stall speed with too big a cam, then when you put your right foot down, the torque converter will start to lock up at an RPM below where the engine has come well up on the torque curve and load the engine and not let it rev higher at that moment. The result is a low torque, dragged-out bog regardless of how far you have your foot down, and when the rev's build to where the engine is finally getting up on the torque curve, then it is BOOM... you're off to the races. It is exactly like driving a stick and putting the trannie in too high a gear for the engine's torque curve, and the car bogs before it builds RPM's up to where you get 'on the torque curve', and it finally takes off.
So all of this is just to see if you have a low DCR issue or a TC stall speed issue that is holding the car back at low RPM's, so you can decide if it is in the carb setup or elsewhere. Hope that all makes sense!
That’s my plan. I know I haven’t tried to jet it further than what it should be according to the Weber book based on my engine specs.But your compression is 180 and you should be good.I would not do anything with the T/converter at this time. Work on Carb. tuning and ign. timing. Keep it simple.
Yes, guy, I agree that, with 180 psi cranking compression, it ought to be awesome off the line. But this is what bothers me.... I am no longer believing the 180 psi compression readings. I've been computing up this stuff for decades, and consistently make good predictions, and to get to close to 180 psi crank compression, with that cam size, you would need to be pushing up around 11:1 static CR. There is no magic in this build to mysteriously push up the compression readings.
So, I would appreciate knowing the TC stall speed to complete this line of thinking. It is to JHJ's benefit IMHO to hash this out. And IIRC, he has asked the question of 'Could it be something else?' It may not any issue at all. If one of some of us could drive the car one time, we might be able to say 'Oh.... that's definitely a off-idle lean problem.' But through the internet we can only ask questions.
I have a Bosch compression tester. I will do another one today to help satisfy those worried about my numbers. I’m trying to be thorough and go through all possibilities.Compression readings are to be taken with a grain of salt unless you have a really high end tester. I have three harbor freight gauges and they vary by 20-40psi from each other. They are for testing percent difference between cylinders, that’s all.
Now if you have a Mac tools or snap on one, AND use proper testing procedures (same battery voltage, same number of cranks, same throttle position etc) then you can use it to read your actual psi.
I’ve had a 2.2 since I bought it used from OGTS in 2009. I don’t have my original intake manifold or Weber 38, I sold those when I started converted everything over to DSD in 2013, but due to life issues I didn’t run or experience until recently. The distributor is great, no issues there. I believe it’s all in the jetting & balancing of the carb. I sent a message to the place that built my torque converter to see what they put the stall at, because I can’t find the sheet and I don’t want to guess. But at this time, I feel I have more pressing issues.Okay, so everyone is leading you down the merry garden path of buying a gazillion gauges and gizmos and bags of jets and electron microscopes and telling you to get into seat of the pants tuning and blah, blah, blah. This sounds like the dreadful experience I had last year with my car. I got a hundred different opinions and followed each one of them and wasted over a $1000 and not one of them did a single thing to fix my car.
For all we know, you may have done everything right, but there's a hidden underlying reason why you're not up and running.
You appear to have 2 mods going on at the same time, maybe 3: A rebuilt 2.2L engine, dual side draft carbs, and, maybe, your new fangled distributor.
One thing that I think my tuner did, in order to satisfy my request for extremely good low speed drivability, was to really throw the gas at the engine. Go really big, like 180+ on the main and go 3 turns out with the mix screw and see what happens or.......
Go back to basics: You liked the performance and off the line tire spinning ability of your Weber 38. I also liked my Weber 38 for all that. Howsabout you put your 38 and oem manifold back on and see how your engine runs. You might have to bump up the mains or idles, I sent you jets that might have the size you need. There isn't that much difference between a 2.0 and a 2.2(I'm guessing that your previous engine was a 2.0), your weber jetting should still be pretty close. If you're running worse than with the 2.0, then take a look at that dizzy. Maybe put your previous oem one back in.
It other words, go back to what you had before and that you know worked pretty good and that you are familiar with when it comes to tuning and timing and such.
Keith, my question is on the new Torque converter stall speed. He does not have the stock one anymore.Now I have a stock 2.4 with dual 45s, and an automatic...I pretty much bolted on the carbs and sent it. That thing has no problem with the low end spinning tires and such. I'm sure I don't have them balanced, didn't really care, hell the thing was pretty much a rocket even with the transmission. If it was a 1.9 engine, I would look at the torque converter, but your engine should be paired nicely with the stock automatic to be a runner with those carbs.
Thanks man. I am throwing in the towel for today. I’m showered up and not going to do anything more with it today, other than think/worry what might be wrong. I will be making a list of things to check next based on possible reasons for this disparity. Valves are already on it.Sorry to see and hear this bud.....
Mite be worth verifying your valve lash on the low cylinders.