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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm replacing the rear wheel cylinders on my '73 GT, and everything is off except the brake line fittings that attach to the cylinder. I've doused them with Liquid Wrench repeatedly with no luck.

I'm using a 10MM open end wrench, but it just slips and is going to ruin the hex fitting. I tried a 3/8" SAE, but it does the same thing. 9MM is too small. I don't have any smaller SAE wrenches, but I'm going to go out and buy some tomorrow since they can come in handy for other stuff.

Any suggestions anyone? I've searched about similar issues, and the typical resolution to stuck bolts such as an impact wrench or the candle and torch trick won't work here. No room behind the backing plate, and too close to the fuel lines for my taste. Can I just get them off somehow (vice grips maybe?) even if I ruin the fittings? I seem to remember being told once that if you ruin the fittings, you have to go to a brake shop and have them cut the line and flare it before putting on new fittings.

Sorry for the long post. Just wanted to throw out all the ideas I have and hopefully someone else who's dealt with this can lead me in the right direction. Thanks in advance. She's all ready to put back together once I can get these fittings off :)
 

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tools

The tool you really need for the job is called a flare nut wrench. It looks like a 6-sided boxed end wrench with one of the sections cut out, and is invaluable for working on brakes.

A pair of vice grips can also do the job, but they usually ruin the nut. Not too big a deal, just take both ends of the line loose and take it into your local parts store. They have hard line with the right fittings for @$5 each piece, already flared and about the right length. All you'll have to do is bend it, which can be done carefully by hand or you can get an inexpensive tubing bender at the parts store as well.
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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try vice grips, but chances are that the line will be siezed to the fitting and it will try to twist the line apart. so you can put vice grips on the fitting and try to pull the wheel cylinder towards the outside of the car away from the backing plate, and try to "spin" the wheel cylinder off the line. rather than that, you'll probably have to just re-do all of your brake lines form the perportioning block on the top of the rear axle to the wheel cylinders if all else fails.
 

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You could try one a heat gun. I always try this before a torch,you can get a lot of flameless heat out of one of these. If you do get it off without too much damage, use a file to clean up the flats on the nut, and use the flare nut wrench(see photo). Good luck.

DAN
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Heat gun

ddoyle said:
You could try one a heat gun. I always try this before a torch,you can get a lot of flameless heat out of one of these.
DAN
Would this be just your basic soldering gun? I've got a little 25W pencil iron and a 100W gun. Or are you referring to something else I'm not aware of?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Dan, Stephen, and Jared for the info. I sprayed the hell out of them tonight with Liquid Wrench, and I'm calling it a night. I'll let them soak overnight. Tomorrow I'll get one of those wrenches, give 'em one more soak, and see if they come off. If that doesn't work, I'll try the heat gun (hopefully my soldering gun will work). As a last resort, I'll break out the vice grips and see what kind of damage I can do. At least if I screw up the fittings and lines, it sounds like it should be easy enough to replace them. Maybe I should just replace them anyway, since I'm pretty much rebuilding the entire braking system. They didn't appear to be leaking, but like everything under the car they've got a nice layer of corrosion on them. ;)

Thanks again guys. I'll let you know how it goes. :)
 

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Scott, a soldering iron or gun just wont do it. The heat gun I refered too looks like a hair drier, they normally have 2 positions, 500F of 1000F, they will put out some heat! I bought my first one several years ago, about $70. They have come down a lot, just bought a replacement, about $30 Wal Mart I think. Look in the paint department(used for paint removal). You could also check your local tool rental center.

DAN
 

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Opel GT Source has a complete brake line package to replace all the steel lines for a GT. They come in a neat package with plastic clips, but they have some 180 degree bends that have to be straightened out. No problem though , they are easily bendable by hand with the judicial application of a soft jawed vise. They also have the 3 brake hoses and a complete rear emergency brake package that replaces the cable, springs and fairleads the cable goes through at the wheels and control rods with the springs installed. I'm doing the complete lines, hoses and hardware on my GT. The one thing I did before installation was to coat everything with POR-15 clear. No more rusted lines or cables, or anything. HTH

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ddoyle said:
Scott, a soldering iron or gun just wont do it. The heat gun I refered too looks like a hair drier, they normally have 2 positions, 500F of 1000F, they will put out some heat! I bought my first one several years ago, about $70. They have come down a lot, just bought a replacement, about $30 Wal Mart I think. Look in the paint department(used for paint removal). You could also check your local tool rental center.
DAN
Thanks for the info. I think I know what you're talking about now. I'm pretty sure I remember seeing them at Menard's or Home Depot. Maybe I'll check them out for prices.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
namba209 said:
Opel GT Source has a complete brake line package to replace all the steel lines for a GT. They come in a neat package with plastic clips, but they have some 180 degree bends that have to be straightened out. No problem though , they are easily bendable by hand with the judicial application of a soft jawed vise. They also have the 3 brake hoses and a complete rear emergency brake package that replaces the cable, springs and fairleads the cable goes through at the wheels and control rods with the springs installed. I'm doing the complete lines, hoses and hardware on my GT. The one thing I did before installation was to coat everything with POR-15 clear. No more rusted lines or cables, or anything. HTH
Ron
Thanks Ron. I'll have to check out the OGTS kits. I did get the rubber hoses from them. I've been trying to replace all the rubber on the car since it was in storage so long. Since I'm under there anyway and am going this far, I might as well go all the way, though. I'm not familiar with POR-15, but I'll look around and see if I can find it here.
 

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POR-15 is only available from RestoMotive, but they have a secure website.

www.por15.com

You can get a starter set with the paint in clear for $14.95 that will be more than enough to do all the lines with a lot left over. Hint: use a mason jar, put the POR-15 in it. DO NOT get the paint on the rim of the jar or the rubber gasket of the lid. I dip the brush in the paint, lift the brush up against the side of the jar to about an inch from the top. That cleans excess paint from the brush and prevents drips. When you finished with the paint, put the lid on tight. As long as you don't get paint of the jar rim or lid gasket, your o.k. and it will be easy to open again next time.

One thing more about POR-15,

FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS EXACTLY AND READ/HEED THE WARNINGS.
HTH

Ron
 

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I can get POR-15 at a local automotive paint store.

They sell House of Kolor paints also. Very resonable and quick.

You could check with some of the paint suppliers in your area, or maybe even some of the Custom and Restoration Auto shops. They could point you in the right direction in your area.
 

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I understand brake fluid itself is a good penetrant. I have never had much luck with Liquid Wrench. My personal favorite is Spray On #103 Rust Breaker.

The heat gun is an excellent tool for electrical shrink tubing insulation for when the inevitable rewiring job needs to be done on the GT!

Bill and the FrankenOpel
This pipe extension on the wrench ough to do the trick. . .
 

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Opelnut
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size of flare nut ?

what is the size of the flare nut on the rear wheel cylinder?

is it 10mm or is it 3/8 or ???

going to buy the correct wrench on the way home. dont want to have to run home, measure, an then get back out


Thanks
Rick
 

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what is the size of the flare nut on the rear wheel cylinder?

is it 10mm or is it 3/8 or ???

going to buy the correct wrench on the way home. dont want to have to run home, measure, an then get back out


Thanks
Rick
Rick;
It's 10mm if it's not rounded off
 
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