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Discussion Starter #1
HI,
Recently I bougth a GT.
Anybody knows what's the meaning of "GT-A-L"?
I think that is the denomination to distinguish if it is a GT or a GT/J,
but my GT have a lot of details that makes me think I have a GT/J.
For example: screen gasket without chrome trim, it have not clock, it have lamps where must have oil gauge and amperemeter...
In some sites I had visited it writed a guide to identificate the year model with the VIN number, but all this references started with 94- or 77-. Why VIN number on my GT start with 79?
I am very confused :(
Please, HELP!!!!!
 

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Manu, I think you have a GT/J as well, though as they were never sold in North America, I cannot say with certainty. Over here, we have only read about them. Are your bumpers painted matte black? No chrome or stainless steel anywhere on the car? If yes, this would indicate your car IS a GT/J, from what I understand, and from what you have indicated. Your car would be considered highly collectable in the US! Regards, Mark Haskell . . . Colorado, USA
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you Mark.
My bumpers are paited in the same color of the body (but it could be painted in this color when the last paint job was made).It have not any emblem... Yes, I realy think I have a GT/J.
Another question:
How much would it cost in the US if it is in perfect condition?
 

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The GT/J was only available in Europe and was never exported to the US. So any that were here would be pretty rare. If they were not "officially" imported, the GT/J may not have the proper government approvals for use on US highways. That may not be an issue now because the cars are so old.

An example, GT's exported to the US have the rear side marker lights and engine emission controls.

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Gary, I don't know if I understand you.
Can you (the north-americans) drive an european GT in the US?

By the way, why your GTs have orange lens in the auxiliary headlights?(we have clear ones)
 

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Hi Manu,
Opels were exported from Germany to the U.S. and sold at Buick (GM) dealers. Any car imported to the States has to meet the government rules for safety and air pollution.

One of those safety rules was for side marker lights. All Opel GT's that were sold in the U.S. have red rear side marker lights and the front curved light is amber and has a reflector in it. The auxillary headlights are used as the directional lights here. Seat belts and air pollution (emissions) devices for the engine were also required.

The Opels that meet those rules have a plate attached to the body stating that the car meets all the requirements for that year.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
hi Gary
Ok, this is very interesting.
You commented "that may not be an issue now because the car are so old", what it means?, are old (classic) cars exempt for these rules?
Here in Spain, "classic cars" are exempt for some rules if in the age that it was made it don't have the things that make the rule (seat belts, etc.) , but this kind of cars have some restriction, for example: it can only run a fixed number of kilometers in a year (5000 km, in general)
 

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What would it be worth in perfect condition, you ask? The standard answer is . . . what a buyer will give you for it. As your car would be one of the few--if not ONLY--Opel GT/J's in the US, one would imagine it going for between $3000-$5000, possibly more to a "hard-core" collector. Transporting the car to America, & getting it to pass DOT/EPA regulations, as Gary noted, would be neither easy or cheap, I suspect. What we would call "red-tape CITY" in America . . . in other words, a major hassle. Manu, do you have any pictures of the car you could post here in the gallery? As I say, we've never seen a GT/J here.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
hi
what is the meaning of "a hard-core collector"?
Give me time to take some photos and to post in the gallery.
There was a photo of my car in the old forum, in a thread called
"what seems to you my purchase?" (it is the only one that I have at the time);)
 

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Sorry, Manu. That probably didn't translate well . . . by "hard-core collector" I mean an Opel enthusiast, or a fanatic, the kind of person who will pay a lot of money for a rare car. For instance, let's say an American Opeler already has at least one of every Opel sold here. There ARE guys like this over here. To some, a GT/J would be the only Opel from the 60s-70s era that he does NOT have. Therefore, a car like yours would complete his collection . . . so he might pay a LOT to get one. Americans LOVE cars, and some have lots of money. I hope this makes more sense, and translates better! :)
 

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For those still wondering what a GT/J IS, it was an early example of GM "de-contenting" a car to lower the price, & make the beancounters happy. The car was unchanged mechanically, but some of the more expensive aspects of the standard GT were deleted . . . all "brightwork" was gone, including hubcaps, the padding on the interior wheelarches, warning lights replaced several of the guages, some carpet & sound deadening material was not installed, etc. etc. The term GT/J "presumably alludes to the Alfa GT Junior", according to an article in "Car" magazine, May 1971. The article appears in the "Opel GT 1968-1973" book and again in the "Gold Portfolio" book.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks
Sorry, americans talk a difficult english, but I try to learn more every day. Talking whith you is a good eexercise for me :D.
I am waiting the post to get "Opel GT 1968-1973" book. What is your impression of the "Gold Portfolio"?, I am considering to buy it.
(these are the only books I know about GT's).
Well, yes Gary, this is my car. HE has a big cancer in the body, but
I am very happy. I am a student and I don't have much money, but time will give me the reason... Maybe I can drive it in ten years. RESIGNATION!
bye
 

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solomanu said:
Thanks
Sorry, americans talk a difficult english, but I try to learn more ... I am a student and I don't have much money, but time will give me the reason... Maybe I can drive it in ten years. RESIGNATION!
bye
At least now you have your GT/J and you can work on it as time as money and time allow. It only took me 16 years to do my Red '69 GT. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
hello Gary
I have seen your photos in the gallery. I have a dubt: why didn't you remove glasses, having done a complete body job? are there any concret reason?
 

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Two reasons. First because the car was towed to the body shop where it was left outside for a short time and second it kept down the amount of dust that got into the car. I cut the window rubber back so the paint line would be under the new rubber.
 

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Hi Manu . . . on most of the US-spec GTs I've owned, the metal identification plate on the cowl has listed, under "Typ/Mod" (type/model), OPEL GT-A-L, & a vehicle ID number beginning with 77. Older US GTs began with 93. GT identification numbers beginning with 79 don't appear anywhere in the books I've got. I suppose this is because they were written for American Opel owners. I'm wondering if your GT/J is lighter than our GTs, meaning that your power-to-weight ratio would be better. Could you look inside the driver's door, when you can, and tell me what it says regarding vehicle weight? Thanks. And, speaking of books, the "Gold Portfolio" book is very good, very much worth buying. It has been auctioned on eBay recently. Please forgive our American English . . . we do not try to confuse intentionally, it's that we've spoken this way all our lives! :p
 

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Discussion Starter #19
hi Mark, I've took a look to the "papers" (it is the spanish form to talk about the pamphlet where the tecnical especifications are) of my car, because the car is 120 Km far of me, SNIF :(
Well, in the papers says that weight is 940 Kg, and max-weight is 1160 Kg (I think it includes all the floids into the car). Then, I have 220 Kg to load the car.
I think you don't use the international metric system. You use "pounds", isn't it? I am sorry but I don't know the equivalent.
 

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Well, pounds or kilograms, our cars weigh basically the same, Manu. So much for my decontenting-from-the-factory-should-make-a-lighter-car theory. I've spent a lot of money--by Opel standards, anyway--building a higher output 2.0, & have kinda hit a wall . . . I can't get much more horsepower without spending the BIG bucks. I've already done the "affordable" mods & upgrades. So, now, I'm looking for ways to make car lighter. It worked for Colin Chapman (Lotus), right? Want to keep the car legal, of course (can't lose any DOT mandated stuff), so who has practical ideas out there? Anyone?
 
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