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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just about ready to get the engine going but I have to get all the linkages and what not hooked up to the carb. I'm not too familiar with where everything goes so I was wondering if there were any online tutorials or what not on hooking everything back up. The factory service manual seems to assume that you would know how to do this and describes the disassembly only. I have the throttle linkage connected at the back, but I'm not sure where the spring goes. Is it there to keep tension on the throttle linkage so it doesn't fall off? Or is there something else that keeps it attached?


http://i17.tinypic.com/432vq7m.jpg
 

· Detritus Maximus
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The throttle linkage in the first pic might be upside down. To turn it over, disconnect fromt he carb and slide it forward so it comes out of the hole in the bracket on the firewall. Flip it around and reinsert. There are rubber bushings, one in that bracket and one in the bracket on the other side of the motor.

There is a small wire clip that inserts thru the socket on the end of the linkage at the carb after you slip the socket onto the ball nut. If you look real close at that socket, there are some tiny little holes in it. The wire has a flat straight part and then a curved part. The straight part goes thru the little holes (locking the socket onto the ball nut) then the curved part swivels around and clips back over the rod behind the socket.

If the clip is missing, it's not a big deal, as long as the rubber bushings are there. But the bushings are definitely needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok that clears things up a bit.

Back to the question about the spring. Is there supposed to be a spring connected to some part of the carb?

Besides the throttle linkage and a wire that runs from the choke to the fusebox, and the vacuum line from the distributor to the carb. Is there anything else to hook up?

Also in the second picture, that little metal pipe that's hanging over the carb, what is that exactly?

If anybody has pictures of what the carb is supposed to look like hooked up I'd greatly appreciate them being posted if possible.
 

· Detritus Maximus
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The spring would attach to a metal tab welded to the heaterbox area, straight below the linkage. It does not go to the carb. It is the throttle return spring.

The only other thing to hook up is a fuel line...I hear they do wonders for driveability!

The tube, since you have an automatic, may be the vacuum tube for the transmission. This does need to be hooked up so it will shift correctly. I believe it connects to the intake manifold (I won't swear to that just yet).

Also, I see in the pic that the brake booster hose is not hooked up. That will be one nasty vacuum leak.

A couple of other observations...your heater hose should go back around the carb instead of making that nasty right turn. It may affect your cooling and will certainly cause a vapor lock/hot start/inconsistent running problem with it so close to the fuel inlet. Move the hose and if the plug and the 90 degree elbow fuel fitting have the same threads, swap them .

Not trying to pick apart things, having been thru all of these in the past, I just know what frustrating problems you will be fighting next.
 

· Detritus Maximus
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On the page Anonymous D linked, look under June 2006 for the last entry. It has a little drawing at the bottom of the pdf page that shows where the trans vacuum hooks up to the manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks guys. When I got the car there was no intake/exhaust manifold hooked up and everything was pretty much lying there. So now I have to figure out where everything goes.

Just have to keep hooking things up until there's nothing left I guess. :lmao:

And yes fuel lines do work wonders. :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have another quick question. Is there a piece of hose that connects the brake cylinder line to the piece on the fitting on the manifold? Obviously one can't plug into the other since they are the same size. Should I just get a small piece of rubber hose and plug them both in to either end. It seems like an elbow shaped piece of some kind would work better since the hose is so stiff that it won't match up nose to nose.
 

· Detritus Maximus
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If you mean the tube that goes down to the transmission (it's not actually brake line) then yes, you connect it to the vacuum fitting with some rubber hose.
 

· Detritus Maximus
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The big fitting on the intake is the one for the brake booster (large round thing the master cylinder bolts to).
Usually, the hose is pushed onto the fitting. If you still have the braided hose, it may be rotted or leaky. I replaced mine with hose from an Audi in the junkyard. It took two pieces, but they have elbow turns in them. Plus, they have the one way check valve in them, too.
If you aren't sure of what to do, but are anxious to start the car, find a pice of hose that will fit onto the fitting and plug it. A suitably sized bolt and a couple of hose clamps will do the trick. This way you can get it started, if you don't mind some extra pedal effort until you get the hose sorted out. It's a good way to isolate the hose and booster as sources of vacuum leaks. The booster can leak at the hose, the booster fitting (it has a rubber seal under it), the internal diaphragm, or the seal between the booster and master.So, if you ever suspect a vacuum leak, that is a fast way to find out if it is the brake vacuum stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Ok cool. Basically the hose comes off of the brake booster and it has that hard plastic check valve with the tip that looks very similar to the fitting that comes off the intake manifold. Is there another piece that goes between these two? Because the check valve (the plastic double sided piece) is identical in size to the fitting. So there's no way one could fit into the other. Am I missing another piece of hose?

Hope that makes sense. I'll try and take some more pictures tomorrow.

On a side note, the manifold that's on the car came off of one of the GT's with the manual tranny, so I have to order a new fitting that has the extra piece for the automatic.
 

· Detritus Maximus
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Yep, you need another piece of hose.

I'm sure I have an intake manifold vacuum fitting for the automatic. I can check tomorrow, if you'd like.
 

· Opeler
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Yes, there is a short (8-10 in.) piece of vacuum hose between the check valve and the manifold fitting. It is the same diameter as the hose between the check valve and the brake booster. When installing these things, make sure that the directional arrow on the check valve points toward the manifold fitting. Sounds like you are on the right track to getting it all back together.
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I'm sure I have an intake manifold vacuum fitting for the automatic. I can check tomorrow, if you'd like.
Most definitely. If you have any more of those little retainer clips I'd be interested in one as well. On that article that Anonymous D posted, I believe it mentioned to use a stronger piece of hose than just the typical rubber type you use for the distributor vacuum line, etc. Otherwise it might pinch shut from the suction?

Oh and btw, that heater hose was just pushed out of the way so I could get a better picture, lol.

Sounds like you are on the right track to getting it all back together.
I've definitely become the type to ask questions before I attempt anything. My first learning experience with a car was a roller coaster ride to say the least. Mainly because I trusted a friend who was mechanically savvy but didn't have an ounce of patience in his body. I learned a lot of what NOT to do, while he worked on MY car.
 

· No....its not a Buick....
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[QUOTE= On that article that Anonymous D posted, I believe it mentioned to use a stronger piece of hose than just the typical rubber type you use for the distributor vacuum line, etc. Otherwise it might pinch shut from the suction?



Yes, if you just use a piece of heater hose it will collapse. You need the wire reinforced type of hose that you can find at a "heavy equipment" type of store. IE Bobcat, John Deer,Case ect... I believe you can take in a short piece to measure the ID and they can hook you up with a hydroylic hose that will work.They dont have this type of hose at auto parts stores anymore(at least not in my neck of the woods) and this was the way I went to solve the problem.It wasnt excatly cheap....but hey, these are your brakes here so......
HTH
Joe
 

· Detritus Maximus
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I get the brake booster hose out of junkyard cars. It's not hard to find and very cheap.
 

· Detritus Maximus
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If they don't, I'm sure somebody on this site has one.
Post a 'Want Ad' in the classifieds.
 
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