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Opeler
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I have been looking all over for a few good pics of how the horn assembly is done on the GT...no luck.
I took it apart a long time ago and now it's time to re-assemble it.I just don't know how.
the steering column is all good except for this
Does anybody have any good schematics/pics/etc. so I can install this
thank you
 

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I have the same issue. Where does the pin go. Do I need to remove the center bolt to get it in, or the three adjustment screws around the ring? (And which end of the pin goes in first?)
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Never dissembled GT steering column, but attachment may help.
Yeah, I've looked that over before but could not find much on the horn.
However, I've worked on it today so I took some pics and put it all together the way I believe it should go. Unfortunately, it still isn't working so I will need to take some readings on it to see where I'm losing the connection. Could also be that the horns simply don't work. Below are pics showing how I put the horn parts together on the steering wheel.
Hopefully this will help someone else looking to do the same.

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If you look at what you have, you will notice that both the pin and the brass fitting that the three screws penetrate are insulated from the hub casting attached to the center shaft. From what I can see, what you have done is correct. The pin goes thru the hub and provides contact with another brass fitting under the hub. This fitting has a wire attached to it. when you depress the horn button the brass contacts the hub casting and allows the circuit to be complete. This is at least part of the reason for the ground wire at the base of the column housing. When working on one of these I did find the inner brass fitting damaged and the wire broken. Kind of a pain to get too unless you already are replacing ignition switch check horn and other parts of circuit first.
 

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Success! Reconnected a loose wire on one of the horn. Works now. Not great, but works. The other horn doesn't. The one that does work got painted over, so I'll be replacing both soon.
 

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So rather than having replaced the horns, I added some length to the passenger side wires, replaced the connectors, and now both horns work and even sound great. Happy :)
 

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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Glad to come across this post and this is just another example of people taking the time to post good information to help out the next guy and for that I am grateful. I still have a couple of questions - I am in the process of trying to get my horn working as it was designed to work - its been so long I don't recall the problem or exactly when it stopped working but if I had to guess I would say the horn stopped working in the early 80's. Want to make sure that I have all of the hardware and related physical pieces in order before I proceed to address related wiring issues. Can you answer or clarify the following:
1. I have all of the parts shown in your last shown picture above, are there nylon washers between the three screws and the brass looking ring used as an electrical insulator - those washers would be between the screw head and the brass ring.
2. Opeljohn mentioned, "This fitting has a wire attached to it. when you depress the horn button the brass contacts the hub casting and allows the circuit to be complete". Not sure that I follow which piece he is talking about and would appreciate a more detailed description or a picture if available. Again not sure why my horn stopped working back in the day - I did add a push button under the dash so I know the horns actually work and that is not the issue.
3. I have all of the parts shown just want to be sure that I am not missing something - if I in fact have all of the parts then it is on to determine how it should be wired.

Thanks, Carl
 

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Will, I am in the process of dismantling some steering columns. I will see if I can get a photo for you.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Follow the Path, my son.....

Okay, I dug out the FSM and laboriously followed and labeled the flow of power for the horn circuit. You better appreciate it, it took me half an hour. Power starts at the battery with a red wire passing through the fuse box, through the white steering column connector, and to the ignition switch. The wire then turns black, goes back through the white connector, and passes through a fuse in the fuse box. The wire then turns black/yellow and passes through both horns. The wire then turns brown, goes through the white connector a 3rd time, then the horn button, and then to ground.

So, the first thing to do is to get your voltmeter out to look for power at every place where there is a wire connection, all the way to the white steering column connector. Now you follow the "Divide and Conquer" troubleshooting procedure. Power starts at the battery and goes all the way to the horn button through multiple connections and then to steering column ground, any one of which could have a disconnection. The red wire powers the ignition switch and you know you have power to there, so no need to check that....yet. "Divide and conquer" means to go to the easiest end of the line point to check for power and see if it is there, if it's not there, go halfway back, if not there, go halfway back again. This is the divide part. As you may or may not know, power switching in a car is done by "removing ground". What this means is that most un-ignition-switched devices in your car have power going to them mostly all the time and you "switch" them with some sort of button. Brakes, horns, dome light, etc. are always live and they get activated or GROUNDED when you step on the brake, push the horn button, or open the door, etc. Therefore, YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO DETECT POWER AT EVERY WIRE CONNECTION FROM THE BATTERY ALL THE WAY TO WHERE THE BROWN WIRE COMES OUT OF THE WHITE STEERING COLUMN CONNECTOR. The only way to detect power to the horn button is to do some horn button removal and mess around inside the steering column, so let's not do that yet. Because you are checking power to ground and your voltmeter is measuring to ground, every time you go to a "test point' that has power you should hear the horns sound. If you detect power where the brown wire enters/exits the white connector and the horns sound, then you know that all the wire connections from the battery to the brown wires at the white connector are good, no need to check them. That leaves just the wire connection to the horn button and the steering column ground.

Get the voltmeter out and tell us what you find.

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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Wow Gordon, Great Job and Much Appreciated. Now that is something that I can follow and actually see, click on it and it even enlarges, even better......This will make my search much much easier. Thanks for taking the time and for your excellent work.....Carl
PS. I think you mentioned there are small non metallic washers that insulate the brass looking round plate that the three screws go through on top - is that correct - or is that necessary since you have the horse shoe shaped piece made of plastic between the bottom of the round brass plate on the bottom which looks like it provides the needed insulation??
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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I'm not sure about all that. Early versions may have come with individual nylon washers to act as an insulator and maybe the one-piece horseshoe insulator came later or maybe I'm wrong.
 

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My 72’ GT has the horseshoe nylon insulator. It sounds like they changed it from the washers, either one would suffice.
 

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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My 72’ GT has the horseshoe nylon insulator. It sounds like they changed it from the washers, either one would suffice.
I just got off the phone with Gil and saw your post. Gil indicates that both should be used so I got little nylon washers at the hardware store that fit perfectly that should work well.
 

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I just got off the phone with Gil and saw your post. Gil indicates that both should be used so I got little nylon washers at the hardware store that fit perfectly that should work well.
Good information, that’s a critical area I’m not sure if I have both, but that’s inexpensive insurance. You don’t want any intermittent contact there. I found out the hard way a long time ago, a story for another time LOL
 

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This is going to turn into a saga - I hope this turns into a good record of exactly how the horn functions beyond looking at the diagram, that is in combination with what has already been listed on this thread and other threads that I read related to the function of the horn - I know there a lot of people that can look at your diagram Gordon and walk away with an answer but the more I look at the horn the more questions that I have, part of that is that electrical issues are my weakest area and there always seem to be other related issues that add to the difficulty of the project. A couple examples below....
  • If the white plug that comes from the steering column is supposed to have a brown ground wire then why did my new ignition switch, from OGTS not have one - had a grey one - is that in fact for the same function just a change in color?
  • By the way my brown wire across from the red wire on the white plug has been cut off flush so it can no longer work in it current condition. I am assuming that was done by the previous owner which I have been amazed at the amount of stuff that guy did in a period of owning the car for 2 years
  • If pushing down on the horn button completes the circuit by the brass ring coming in contact with the other ring under it then what is the purpose of the small cylinder, spring loaded button on each end, that fits in a hole in the steering column.
  • Perhaps not related but I also note that the black plug beside of the White plug has what looks like a ground wire as part of the grouping of 7 wires so there is not a place for that wire in the black plug - the end of the plug is a female connector - ideas on that wire - I am assuming it is a ground.
So I am just getting started with more on my plate that originally anticipated but I am up for the challange with the help I know that I will receive from my friends at Opelgt.com. I have removed the steering column cover, which took about 1 and 1/2 hours, grrrrr.... so everything is wide open with my goal being to get everything done connected with this issue as I would like for this to be the last time I drop the steering column and the last time I take off the cover.
Thanks again Gordon for your assistance and yes it is much appreciated. Looking at your diagram and notes it did clarify and gave me a basic understanding of how the horn works - however I also still have questions
Thanking everyone in advance for there thoughts and assistance. Best, Carl Will I Finish........

White Plug with cut brown wire and a grey wire not in use at this time - not sure what it is for

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Black plug with extra brown wire as part of the bundle - not currently in us to the best of my recollection
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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Theoretically, if that is the correct brown wire in the white connector for the horn "return line to the horn button and ground", then if you use a piece of wire connected to ground and touch that chopped off wire the horns should sound off. FYI: Those Volkswagen horns on our cars get old and stop working. They also have a "tuning screw" on them that you turn to get the best sound or any sound at all. It would be a PIA, but if you remove your grill and one or both of your horns and their wires, you should be able to jump power to them straight from the battery + and ground - and they should make noise. I don't want you going off on wild goose chases trying to make the horns work only to discover that your horns are rusty and never make any sound, even though all your wiring and button is working.

Didn't your new ignition switch come with a wiring diagram? I dug through my records and OGTS tech tips sheets looking for the diagram that came with my long ago replacement switch and found the sheet below. I notice on it that I have wrtten in that the gray wire is sometimes brown:
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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Got out the FSM again and found a schematic that shows a gray wire coming from the ignition switch area that appears to power the door jam switches and the dome light.

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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From Keith Lundholm:

<<< I actually start at the column because I know a majority of the steering columns have been jacked up by previous owners. A simple continuity test at the horn button wire and to ground will tell you if you have something wonky in the column real quick. Then I check for power at the fuse box fuse number 1. If that is all good, you can assume one horn or both are screwed up in some way. Then a simple power test later to confirm. >>>
 
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