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Senior Contributor
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my drivers side horn did not work, so i adjusted it and still nothing. so i took my passenger side horn off and put it on the driver side. there was no hook ups for it on the passenger side. It works great. i am trying to fix my driver side horn inside, my friend came by to see my car and i wanted to show him my horn. well when i press the horn button the tachometer jumped!!! what is going on with this? thats not supposed to happen is it? by the way does anyone want to trade a horn button with no cracks for a horn?
 

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Opeler
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3,098 Posts
When horn button is pressed, completes GROUND circuit inside steering column (14 GA brown wire). 14 GA black / yellow wire is connected to to Fuse F7. When ignition key is switched ON, circuits F5 thru F7 circuits are energized.

Connect wire to unpainted chassis ground from horn ground, turn ignition Key ON to listen for horn.

There should be another brown and black / brown wire for other horn. Maybe wires are taped over or ?

I also had my tachnometer jump when horn button is pushed. Not sure what causes. Make sure all 20 GA brown wires are connected to back of speedometer and (1) 20 GA connection to back tachnometer housing.
 

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4ZUA787
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665 Posts
ive found the best replacement horns for are gts steal two horns off an 80's bmw at ur local pick-ur-part and they mount perfectly were the stock ones went and they dont need any wiring changed around and they sound almsot the same as the old gt horns just a little louder and crisper.
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
ditto on the horn

i had the saame thing..i honked my horn and my tach jumped.

i had a loose brown ground wire hanging down at the steering column...it connects to the back of the speedometer
 

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no horn

My horn is completely dead and I dont see any loose wires (well, I did, the ones at the horns, but now they are hooked up). I remember changing some sort of thin copper (?) ring on a Manta I had in the 70's. It became chewed up and the horn quit. I looked under the horn button and don't see that on my GT and now wondering if there is such a thing... or if I had taken off the Manta's steering wheel to get to it and just don't remember.

Electrical troubleshooting remains a mystery to me.....so I'm kinda stuck.
 

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I had a dead horn just recently, and since it was already broken, why not rip into it and see what makes it tick.
(third person)
Grind off all the perifery rivets. take the center nut off which holds a plastic 'speaker' in place to give it that great German sound.

Inside you find a coil of varnished wire of considerable size--hard to burn that out. It is wound on a C-yoke which sucks down a bar that is connected to the 'speaker' When that bar moves it opens a micro-switch at the same time so it almost immediatley releases the bar. Hence it toots.

My problem was that the hardware (removable) that held on the two male electrical terminal lugs at the top of the horn were corroded to the point of nonconduction. Remove the hardware, shine it up with 220 grit and vinegar,
reassemble. Use 10-32 x 1/4" PHMS and nut, in place of the rivets previously ground off. Use RTV sealand on the old gasket.

It may or may not toot first time reassembled: placement of the bar-'speaker' to C-yoke is critical. But while trying to toot it, adjust the Philips screw set into detents on the back of the horn: tune for max loudness.

If it does not work; send it to me; I'll try to fix it.
 

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Thanks for the explaination....and the offer. I have two up there.....one has two wired attached and the driver's side has only one. I'm going to try switching them around first to see if that helps.....then proceed to your cleaning and tuning suggestions. I should probably make sure I'm even getting power up to them....I do know the fuse is good because the wipers and reverse lamp are working.

Thanks again.
 

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Bosco

It is interesting you say one has 2 terminals and the other only has one. Both horns should be the 2 terminal type. Sounds like the PO messed with your horn system. This could be the problem. You can run it with just one horn, make sure you use the 2 terminal one.
 

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tach & horn problem

I have functioning horns and tachometer but when I activate the horns the tach needle jumps. Strange deal! I could not see any common wires that the two systems share.
 

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They both work with ground. Double check the ground to the steering column & gauges.
You hit the nail on the head. Check the ground wire on the column which attaches to one of the 4 steering wheel support bolts.
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
my tach jumps when I hit the horn

recently my horn quit working and my tach has been jumping when it does work. for me, its not my grounds..i rechecked and even tried adding a ground to the column...the problem I have is the Center ring is HOT..not ground..so I must have a short.
see my photo that shows the center ring "hot" with a grounded test light..this is supposed to be a ground ..correct?
 

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