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By external appearances, there is no difference. Even a VIN might not be useful, since engines are obviously interchangeable.
 

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No need for a key to open a door, windows are down, but it looks like a tight fit .
With a good light look thru the grill...the 1.1 radiator mounts about 4 inches behind the radiator support,
the 1.9 radiator mounts close against that panel.
If you can get behind the Opel, and are familiar with the 1.9 GT, you will notice that the entire rear
drive train is noticeably smaller IF this GT is a 1.1....There is probably a one in a thousand chance
that it is a 1.1 but there is that possibility.

IF it is a 1100 be aware that to change to a 1900 (or bigger) engine requires a transmission, and
all running gear, suspension front and rear, brakes, etc. Everything I mention is smaller scale.
The body (as far as I know) is the same except for some minor brackets for throttle linkage, etc..
....As I was writing this someone supplied an easier clue.

IMG_7626.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No need for a key to open a door, windows are down, but it looks like a tight fit .
With a good light look thru the grill...the 1.1 radiator mounts about 4 inches behind the radiator support,
the 1.9 radiator mounts close against that panel.
If you can get behind the Opel, and are familiar with the 1.9 GT, you will notice that the entire rear
drive train is noticeably smaller IF this GT is a 1.1....There is probably a one in a thousand chance
that it is a 1.1 but there is that possibility.

IF it is a 1100 be aware that to change to a 1900 (or bigger) engine requires a transmission, and
all running gear, suspension front and rear, brakes, etc. Everything I mention is smaller scale.
The body (as far as I know) is the same except for some minor brackets for throttle linkage, etc..
....As I was writing this someone supplied an easier clue.

View attachment 429478
Thanks for the additional Help!
 

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Didn't the 1.1s have different differentials then the 1.9s?
 

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Yes, the rear axle has the same weak innards as the 12S, 12N, 13N and 16N axles. Available ratios: 3,70:1, 3,89:1, 4,11:1, 4,375:1 and 4,62:1 .
 

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Opeler
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If the markings are still on the car, the rear should have 1100 badge above license plate holder.
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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That car is not a 1.1. I can tell by looking at it that it doesn’t and is a 1.9 car.
No magic, just pop out windows, no fender emblems, so 71-73
Yep, I was about to type the same thing. NOT a '69 (not even a '70...)
 

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There weren't a lot of major differences in the GT models during the production run. This is a nice summary of some of the things to look for in the different model years.
As you can see, most of the differences are cosmetic. As Keith mentioned above, pop-out vent windows are a good indication of a post 1970 car. Just remember that these are ~50 year old cars, so over time parts from different model years could have been swapped in and out.
Cheers,
Ron in FL
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Do you have any idea how much they are worth in the condition they are in? I one time saw a 1969 Opel Gt automatic for sale for $5,500 And it was in about the same condition as the purple one. Do you think this one is worth that much?
 

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Do you have any idea how much they are worth in the condition they are in? I one time saw a 1969 Opel Gt automatic for sale for $5,500 And it was in about the same condition as the purple one. Do you think this one is worth that much?
It's hard to do a realistic appraisal until you get a chance to thoroughly inspect the car. If you can drag it out of the barn and do a stem to stern inspection (take lots of photos) you will get some opinions here as to value. Body integrity is huge for these cars, so pay particular attention to any rust. As a parts car, it might be worth <$1000. A good restoration candidate (solid body, unlocked engine, good glass, etc.) that has been sitting in dry storage could be worth several times that. Condition is key.
 
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