[fredopelgt]

Hi Every-one.

Please Help,

How do you set up Hydraulic Tapetts from new?

Settings dry?

Do you then turn over the engine, with out the HT, to induce oil pressure to pump them up and adjust again?

I repeat Please Help

 

[GTJIM (R.I.P.)]

from the FSM.....

"Amply oil respective parts and install in reverse sequence to removal.

Carry out hydraulic valve lifter adjustment with the engine off, It makes no difference whether the engine is cold or has operating temperature. Set piston of the respective cylinder to U.D.C. (TDC in US ) It is advisable to adjust lifters in the firing order.

Back off adjusting nut at the rocker arm until a clearance exists. Then tighten adjusting nut until any clearance between valve, rocker arm, and lifter are eliminated. Screw in adjusting nut one full turn. The valve clearance is now adjusted and no re-adjustment is required."

Note that I fill new lifters with CLEAN engine oil by pumping them between finger and thumb while putting oil into then with a CLEAN high-pressure oil can via the hole in the side. This can also be done by immersing them in CLEAN engine oil and similarly pumping them. When they feel "solid" they are full of oil.
Also the engine needs to be positioned at Top Dead Centre (TDC) - on the firing stroke for each particular cylinder .... (U.D.C. = Upper Dead Centre!).

HTH - puts on Kevlar combat helmet ......

 

[fredopelgt]

Hydraulic Lifters

Hi GTJim,

Many Thanks for your reply. A young man set his up dry wound them down, plus a turn and damaged them.

At over a £100 for 8 didn't want him to have problems with the new lifters!

Thanks again.

 

[GTJIM (R.I.P.)]

Damaged??

Hydraulic lifters are tough little muthas! If you wind them down too tight the valves just get jacked open. Have a good look at the "damaged" ones because, unless they have been started up dry between the lifter and the cam, not a lot can "kill" a new lifter. They may be jammed down but a tap or two on a bench or hard plastic hammer should free them up.
GBP100! Whole cams and kits for Opel Mantas go for less than GBP30 on eBay.UK ..... have a look some time.

 

[JackJ]

Hydraulic Lifters.

The new lifters should be soaked in motor oil(10w-30) overnight and should never be "pumped up" before installing.A "pumped up" lifter will cause the valve to be extended when it is not supposed to be upon initial startup of the engine. The lifters have to naturally pump up to avoid this and to cycle properly for the first few minutes after the installation of new ones.The valve adjustment system is one called "Zero Valve Lash" where the valves are adjusted to a zero lash where the hydraulic lifter takes up the slack.Overtightening will cause severe camshaft and lifter wear/damage,too loose the same.Get a manual which explains how to do this adjustment.Also if you want to cycle these new lifters properly,soak first,install,adjust,then pull your coil wire off and spark plugs removed and crank the engine 3 or 4 times about 20 secs. This will ensure you have oil in the gallery to feed the lifters immediately and not damage them with a high speed start up(engine running).

 

[ParkerVH28]

Good timing, I guess! But in pursuit of trying to get my new/old Opel going I adjusted the values on mine this weekend. So I did it the way it is stated in the FSM. The way that you have all described previously. Then I looked in another after market book and they talk about using the feeler gauge. So what way is it?


Parker

 

[GTJIM (R.I.P.)]

Another Controversy!

Hydraulic lifters "bleed down" very quickly and the valve spring pressure soon pushes them back to the right place. They operate with a full load of oil - I just like to start them off like that without having to grind the motor over without ignition. On a fresh motor getting it started as soon as possible and hoisting the revs up around 2,500 rpm is good to get plenty of oil slung about.
Another idea is to remove the distributor and wind the oil pump over, using screwdriver or some such, till the oil comes out the rocker gear..... That fills them up before the motor starts too.

 

[tekenaar]

Good timing, I guess! But in pursuit of trying to get my new/old Opel going I adjusted the values on mine this weekend. So I did it the way it is stated in the FSM. The way that you have all described previously. Then I looked in another after market book and they talk about using the feeler gauge. So what way is it?

Parker

feeler gauge is for solids ONLY!

 

[guyopel]

I adjust the hyd. lifters with eng. running ( using oil guard ) loosen then
down 1/4 turn untill 1 full turn is complete .hope this helps

 

[ParkerVH28]

Okay sounds like my question is cleared up.
Thank you

Parker

 

[JackJ]

Valve Adjust

Do it running like he said and use some kind of sheild like he said.Make sure you do not drop socket,ect while running.Way to go!

 

[kwilford]

Do it running like he said and use some kind of shield like he said.Make sure you do not drop socket,etc while running. Way to go!

This has been covered ad nauseum in several previous threads. There are some folks who enjoy the feeling of being splashed unnecessarily when adjusting Opel CIH hydraulic lifters. The rest of us, knowing better, understand how these lifters function, have read the FSM for additional guidance, and adjust our Opel hydraulic lifters with the engine stopped, and either hot or cold. It just doesn't matter.
And PLEASE, now that both sides have been presented (albeit a bit one-sided, being a Moderator sort of and all), please let this one end here.

JM2CW

 

[GTJIM (R.I.P.)]

Heh! Heh!

Maybe if Opel had used the "hip deep in oil" method at the factory our GTs would not have rusted quite so badly!

Ended with a smile ......

 

[broszzy]

Ok tighten rocker till no play with motor not running than one more turn, no problem on six of them, but two lifters at 3/4 turn they get real tight, any one got any ideal why? or where I should go from here?

Thanks Pat

 

[Anonymous D]

Procedure

Link to download, (first item under June 2006), is here:

Engine

Lots of information is already on the internet. In the future, you could research your questions first, and get the answers yourself.

 

[kwilford]

Link to download, (first item under June 2006), is here:

Engine

Lots of information is already on the internet. In the future, you could research your questions first, and get the answers yourself.

Hmm, helpful, yet pissy all in one post

Ok tighten rocker till no play with motor not running than one more turn, no problem on six of them, but two lifters at 3/4 turn they get real tight, any one got any ideal why? or where I should go from here?
Thanks Pat

I presume that you have the piston at top dead centre on the specific cylinder lifters you are adjusting, as in you can only adjust one cylinder at a time before rotating the crank to the next TDC (as in piston #1, then #3, then #4, finally #2).
If so, then can you tell if you are opening the valve as you adjust the rocker nut down? If yes, then the lifter has seized, and is probably NFG. If not, then perhaps the rocker stud threads are damaged at the point the nut gets hard to turn, or the lifter has lost its internal spring load and you are bottoming the nut out on the rocker stud thread shoulder.
Or...?

 

[GTJIM (R.I.P.)]

O R ...

..be sure that you have a full set of hydraulic lifters! You should be able to press down on the lifter end of the rocker arm and compress the lifter a little ... and have it spring up again. If it is 'solid' then either the hydraulic lifter is jammed ... OR you may have a couple of solid lifters in there instead of a full set of hydraulics. Their appearance is slightly different and they can be distinguished from each other by sight (once you know the difference!).

The nut should not get dead tight as the valves will start jacking open if you continue to wind the nut down - until the valve starts to contact the piston ... then things will get very tight!

 

[broszzy]

I presume that you have the piston at top dead centre on the specific cylinder lifters you are adjusting, as in you can only adjust one cylinder at a time before rotating the crank to the next TDC (as in piston #1, then #3, then #4, finally #2).

Yes I was adjusting each cylinder on TDC. But I was turning down the lock nut till there was no slop in the rocker and didn't notice the lifter spring was compressing,:banghead: my fix I used my .oo4 feeler gauge between the valve and rocker as I tightened the nut to feel for contact then went one full turn alls well now. Thanks Keith, GTJim. You guys are great help

Pat