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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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Just because it can be “bent by hand” doesn’t mean that’s it’s soft and breakable, like pretzel dough. These lines are strong and require effort to bend by hand, they aren’t like pipe cleaners. I used Earl’s Easy Form Hardline Tubing for my EFI lines. While you can “bend it by hand” it is best to use a tube bender as pictured previously. You have to put some serious force behind it to damage it. It’s widely used for a reason and is worth it.
Thanks. I've used copper line before (not on a car), and it was way too easy to bend and screw up. I guess the nickel added to it adds enough strength.
 

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I used NiCop. Bent by hand very nicely. Got it at Summit. I also got a small tubing cutter and inverted flare tool so they could be done in place. Much easier than going on and off the car several times.
 

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Detritus Maximus
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2,694 Posts
I have a couple different of the tubing benders shown, plus this little one that fits up in tight spots to adjust the lines in the car.
 

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I worked on the lines today a little bit. I worried about the long line running front-to-rear. Looked online and found that Eastwood sells a straightener for 90 bucks (Nope!). Went to Amazon and found some nylon wheels for 3D printers (here) and made up a little straightener, using a couple of youtube videos as inspiration, a block of oak left over from a dovetail box project, and a few screws I had lying around. Worked pretty good to straighten the 3-foot piece, we'll see how it does on the long front-to-rear piece. I'm sure that the copper-nickel lines are much easier to work with in this way than steel would be. I started by getting it just in-the-ballpark straight, then ran it back and forth through the wheels until it was pretty close to straight. It'll work for me. I think if I add another wheel on top and bottom, it'll do even better.

-Carson

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