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Several years ago I advised, from afar, a young man your age as he restored an early 1950s Willys (forerunner of Jeep) pickup. He had some advantages that you will need -- experts in the field. First, he had a grandfather that taught welding at the local vocational school -- very important and if you see Bondo and rust holes, you will need this expertise as well (Opel body panels were not sealed well and rust prevention was primitive -- water and dirt would work their way inside, where the rust would start). He also had help from a professional body shop and an engine builder. First thing you need to look for is a copy of the Factory Service Manual. Someone mentioned that the 1969 models were fairly unique to the subsequent years, especially with respect to wiring, but any year's FSM is better than none. Also, make sure you bookmark this link from Opel GT Source:

Best of luck...
 

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My grandpa has a few cars that he is restoring and that have been restored. He has a 1970 triumph spitfire, 1966 mg midget, 1933 american austin, morris travelall, mgb. He has taught me a lot! I am still learning how to weld. I know how to do spread bondo. I have restored a Kohler k241 with his help. The Gt is going to his house because I don't have the room or the tools to work on it. My grandpa and I just want to get it cleaned up and driving. Where do you find FSM at?
Your grandfather is an LBC (Little British Car) nut! Cool! I have a 1964 Triumph Spitfire. When I was not much older than you, I was the "furrin' car" specialist in a Texaco station -- most of the iron I worked on was Triumph and MG, although one of our customers had an E-Type Jag that I coveted. Then there was the Europa...

FSM: This link should get you somewhere:

You can also place a request in the "Parts Wanted" section of the "Opel Ad Board" on this forum -- on occasion there will be a member with an FSM that he is willing to part with.

As for your exhaust system question on another thread, as others have indicated, you have a system cobbled together by a previous owner or a muffler shop. You will need the following parts to bring it back to original configuration (Opel GT Source parts numbers)
Front muffler #10005
Hanger bracket for #10005 -- #10018
Connector pipe (runs over the axle #10006
Rear resonator (includes the twin tail pipes) #10007
Rear resonator hanger bracket #10021
This assumes you have a solid OEM header pipe (OGTS #10004)
Rubber hangers (4 required) #10008
Pipe clamps (3 required) #10022
 

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Thanks so much!!!! I talked to my grandpa tonight and it sounds like we are going to do the major body work like the rust and get it running and driving so it is like a daily driver. I don't have that much money to do a full blown restoration so I am going to do a decent one. When I have enough money and I am older(I am 14) i will restore it the proper way. I am probably going to buy a 1990-1991 Honda Prelude Si for my daily driver($500) and I am still looking to buy my great uncles other Gt a 1971-1972 Gt. I am still saving my money for these opportunities.
How much did your paint job cost? My grandpa and I were looking at the correct paint and It was around $100 a quart. So my grandpa thinks it would be around $300 to paint it. We might just use rustoleum spray paint. That is what my grandpa used on his spitfire and so far it looks good.

Thanks Sam
The cost can depend on the color. When I had my GT done, the restoration shop told me that yellow tends to be the priciest. A metallic will also be more expensive. Also depends on what type of product you use. Base coat-clear coat will often be more expensive than single stage urethane. Each has advantages and disadvantages. I think Rustoleum rattle can is the last option, maybe even lower. Find a local auto body shop supplier and pick his brains.
 
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