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OPEL-LESS!!!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well i think this is another "Opel electrical Gremlin"
Problem: car runs fine under 1400 RPM, but try to run it any higher than that and the motor cuts out completely, the tach drops down to the peg right away, and then it comes back. i do not move the gas pedal while it does this. it dies out, picks back up, tach jumps to the number of RPMs it is running, and then does it again for about a second. jumping points, bad condensor, and coil going bad have already been sugested by Gene, but i'm going to actually look at it tomarrow, and just wondering if anybody else has an idea of what it is, as i'm clueless. i can only think electrical becasue of the tach dying, just thought it'd be nice to have a few extra things to check if it wasnt what Gene had suggested.

Moderaters: sorry i posted this in open discussions, i just am not sure what is wrong, and i figured it'd be sensless to put it somewhere incase it ended up belonging under another topic.
 

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4ZUA787
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665 Posts
well if ur still running points i would recomend a pertronix and a new coil while ur at it. that my be ur problem but its just a hunch
 

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Just gut instinct but I would say that if you look at your cap and rotor you will find carbon trails. At higher load your coil voltage is colapsing due to a high ohm short. The ones I have seen normally go from the tip of the rotor down to the distributor shaft. A new cap and rotor will take care of it, if that is what you find.
 

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Double check the tightness of the condensor screw. I had a similar problem and the screw holding the condensor to the distributor was loose allowing the condensor to loose the ground it gets from the distributor body. HTH.

Ron
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well i tried some of the things you guys told me to check until it finally worked, must been something with the cap. just blew it out and put it back on and it runs fine again. now if i can get the weber gene sent me bolted down, it'd be GREAT. just going to say the hell with the origional studs and put allen head bolts in it. be alot simpler
 

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I think I used a 3/8 universal joint with a 12 mm socket on it to tighten down the nuts on my carb, when I had the 1.9 engine in my GT.

Ron
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i just did away witht he studs. put normal bolts in it witht he same threads as the intake studs had. 3 were easy to tighten down, but one was still a bitch. ended up finding a small 1/2 inch wrench that had been cut in half, and tightened it down using that. distributor wrench wouldnt work very well. man i love how 13MM and 1/2 are the same, saved me tonight. anyway i made a new baseplate gasket out of special gasket material, bolted it down, hooked it up and rather than being one cold blooded little beast, i think the carb might be OK with some tuning, might not even need a rebuild. does the DGEV still need the adapter plate to use the stock linkages, or is that only for the DGAV carb? i honestly haven't really looked, i'm getting a DGAV in a couple weeks for the waterchoke housing, as my car is set up for a water choke, and i dont feel like running the one single wire to the carb from the fuse block, lazy i know, but for some reason i'm partial to aqua chokes.
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
oh yeah........
THANKS GENE!!!
 

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That's O.K. to run a water choke. My personal preference is that's there's a little less chance for a water leak or hose busting with an electric choke. Different Strokes, you understand.

Ron
 
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