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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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It's the oil pump cover with the hole in it that I really need. My 2.2 is a 1985 and did not have a trigger wheel or sensor so my oil pump cover is a standard one. Juan said several times in posts that you just bolt the sensor on with one bolt but I never understood what would hold the sensor in place well enough. I know now :yup:.
I may have a few spares coming this package. I only got one spare crank pulley and oil pump cover last time and it went on Patricks motor.

Seems a few changes due to sensors and such on EFIs, that there isnt a whole lot of in-depth knowledge about. That can be found.

The 2.2L Patrick had came with a hole in the cover, and what looked like a brass cover a sensor went in. Its pulley had only 2 notches for reading TDC, and I guess 10 degree ATDC ?

Funny thing, my old Bitter cover on my 2.0L has a hole for a sensor, but its smaller than the 2.4L one. Add to that distance between the front of the Kadett motor and radiator. I am going to stay with the stock EFI on it and play with Bens Manta for the custom EFI.
 

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Well I am going to keep it short as I will post a stick thread on dialing in the cam and the fun that it was.

Learned a lot, and unconfused myself on a lot of the more finite issues.

As for the CAM bushing.. I WAS RIGHT :p

1) The head is dropped due to decking of Block/Head

2) This causes slack in the chain

3) The chain is "shortened" by the tensioner pushing it in the center

4) The crank sprocket doesn't move as its pinned to the crank and the crank has to be at TDC, so right side of chain doesn't move.

5) The chain tensioner takes the slack up on the left side, and by doing so pulls down on Sprocket AND Cam, putting them BOTH off TDC ( In our case 4 degrees )

6) The sprocket is then modified with bushing to rotate the cam sprocket ( and the alignment pin hole ) back to TDC, thus bringing the Sprocket AND the Cam back to TDC

7) Thus the TDC mark is back in alignment AND so is the Cam.

The bushing allows the rotating of the sprocket on its center to bring the cam and cam pin back into alignment. Doing so the TDC mark goes back into alignment. The change is picked up in the larger bolt holes for the sprocket. the bolts ( like the center pin) will no longer be centered in the bolt holes.
Charles, worth mentioning is the other effect of milling the head and/or block. When aggressive milling is utilized, there are times when the chain slack becomes unacceptable (NOT an issue with the amount you've milled BTW).

So if, for example, you mill .010" from the block and .080" from the head, then the cam timing obviously must be corrected. The other effect is the extra 'slop' you will have in the timing chain, which is being taken up by he hydraulic tensioner. At some point as the chain wears, the tensioner will no longer be able to remove the chain slack. The easiest way to remedy this is to put a 'lash cap' onto the end of the hydraulic tensioner, to take up the excess slop.



 

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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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At some point as the chain wears, the tensioner will no longer be able to remove the chain slack. The easiest way to remedy this is to put a 'lash cap' onto the end of the hydraulic tensioner, to take up the excess slop.



I remember doing this by drilling out an old wheel cylinder piston and pressing it on the end of the tensioner, back in the day when the chains rattled from age :)

Yours looks a little more professional and probably safer.
 

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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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Pretty much the final pictures.. I have a few loose ends. Two Freeze plugs and a dipstick tube..










The Water Pump is a 75 water pump with the front stub cut off. It came from my Kadett as I couldnt fit an electric fan in front of the motor so I went back to a regular pump. Thought it looked cool.

Plan is to add a flywheel and do a dry compression test to see if everything moved well and if I have the valves adjusted close. I think a hot running adjustment maybe needed given the cam and all. But I cant do that here.
 
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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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Oh there will be when its ready for shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #131
Safe on the West coast

Quick status update: The engine made it safe to California.

If everyone doesn't know this - Charles is a gentleman and a scholar. The engine is a piece of art and classes up my garage.

It will be a slow process but I look forward to installing it in 2017.
 

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Discussion Starter #133
Guess that horsepower!

2.5 years later and I am bringing (attempting to) this thread back to life!

After lots of gremlin chasing I got the GT up to a tuner and got it on a dyno. Anyone want to guess the horsepower and torque at the wheels? (aluminum flywheel and 5 speed trans)

I will post the dyno sheet on Friday :)
 

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Answer is: 134hp/138tq at the wheels!
Impressive numbers for sure!!! Thanks for posting those
Can you post all your motors specs please?
 

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Discussion Starter #138
The thread has a bunch of details but the basics are:

Build details:
2.2L - with overbore to freshen it up
96mm pistons
1.94" Intake and 1.60" exhaust
Cam: Intake : Lift .426" (.284" Lobe) Exhaust : Lift .420" (.280" Lobe) Lobe Seperation : 108° Intake : Duration 212° Exhaust : Duration 208°
Running Megasquirt on the stock 2.2l intake with independent ignition of 60-2 toothed wheel
 

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Opel Tinkerer and Rescuer
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The thread has a bunch of details but the basics are:

Build details:
2.2L - with overbore to freshen it up
96mm pistons
1.94" Intake and 1.60" exhaust
Cam: Intake : Lift .426" (.284" Lobe) Exhaust : Lift .420" (.280" Lobe) Lobe Seperation : 108° Intake : Duration 212° Exhaust : Duration 208°
Running Megasquirt on the stock 2.2l intake with independent ignition of 60-2 toothed wheel
Question is how does the car drive ?

Whats daily driving like ? I may have to see if I can get Isky to make this cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #140
We will have to see! Currently the car has now windows, the dash is barely connected, and 0 interior. The short stints of driving I have done have been fun. It revs up quickly (also has an aluminum flywheel) and power comes on in the 3k range, which aligns with the dyno sheet. Once things get more buttoned up I will post an update, maybe even a video!
 
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