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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i am on sectional 90-25 of the 1970 opel kadett and gt service manual...I am trying to get the ignition lock cylinder out..doesnt
seem like it wants to release.

i have a a bent coat hanger and an ice pick,I even drilled an access hole for better vision and out of frustration as she wont release...I have kept key in run position and even tried the others ..no movement..any advice?

my goal is to 1)remove the ignition lock cylinder 2)remove electrical unit-the unit smoked the other day and it wont run.
 

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tomking
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2,484 Posts
Bucky there is a small hole in the lock cylinder I garrantee you! I couldnt find mine for the longest time either. If I recall right you have to almost get your head under the dash and then be looking back to see it. It IS there.
 

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Member
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247 Posts
Bucky, I am not sure about the GT, on the Manta there are 2 VERY small set screws located in the plastic part of the switch itself.
I pulled these 2 out and the electrical part of the switch came right off. Did not need to remove the lock cyl at all.

DAN
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
what size is the hole?

how big is the hole that I am looking for?

ice pick or coat hanger size...
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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if i remember there is one set screw and you have to have the key in the "run" position and there is a little hole as they say. this hole has a spring loaded piece, push down on the piece and pull it out at the same time........dont quote this as this was one of the few things i didnt do to my car, and i watched my father do while i was doing other things to the car.
 

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Opel fan
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357 Posts
bucky, the hardest part is getting that outside cover off. I think it would be easier to cut and modify the sucker than going thru all the stuff to get it off. Once it's off, the rest is gravy.
 

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Opel fan
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357 Posts
ignition switch

with that cover off, you wouldn't need to remove ignition key switch to remove the electrical round switch. You have to go through a lot to get that cover off. Once that cover is off, there's one screw holding the electrcal round switch.
 

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Opel fan
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357 Posts
ignition switch

but if your brave enough to do it, the push pin hole to remove ignition key switch is in the pic. I had to remove the ignition switch and the inner shaft-whole wheel assembly to get that outside cover off.
 

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Opel fan
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357 Posts
ignition switch

This would be so easy if Opel had made that outside metal cover like they made the first one against the gauge panel. There are 3 tiny screws on the bottom, inside the metal cover. They will be a joy putting back in.
 

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Opel fan
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357 Posts
ignition switch

The hardest part is getting that cover off. I had to do a whole bunch more than remove that one screw that holds the electrical contact switch in place on the left side of the wheel. That cover, I'll tell you, is a sunofagun.
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
BUCKY'S FLAP

I am not going to win the "concours opel restoration at the show"
but I will soon be driving ..instead of staring...

thank you Jim B..the pictures help me put together a hopless situation ..your idea of modifying the cover made sense...I dont
know if you intented me to "perform the bucky flap" but here it is..
Done in 5min or less.

I think the flap will bend back in..add a little piece of trim and as they say"only her hairdreser will know".

one final question?is OGTS the only source of a switch?
 

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Super Moderator
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1,802 Posts
next step?

Well, now that the switch is desoldered, all you need is a switch. I'd get a universal jobie from the parts store, pull the ignition switch wires back down the column to give you some room to work with , and just wire in a switch and mount it under the dash, With the tumbler set removed the column won't lock, and you'll still have a key for turning it on.

It'll get you going, at least.

Do you have any more of the material you used in the back? It might make a nice "scarf" for the column to cover the handiwork.
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
GETTING IT GOING

TO THOSE WHO HAVE BEEN HELPING ME: HERE IS THE CULPRIT...
A BROKEN PIECE OF METAL, LOOSE,AND INSIDE MY ELECTRICAL SWITCH..WOULDNT THAT CAUSE MY CAR TO START BUT NOT RUN?

ALSO..SINCE MY KEY AND TUMBLER IS SEPARATE FROM THE ELECTRICAL...WILL THIS BORG-WARNER IGNITION SWITCH WORK FOR THE SHORT TERM...?

OR DO i NEED SOMETHING ELSE?
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
hotwire w/o a switch

I went by "Foreign car enterprise" this am on the way to work..
Craig Vaughn said the following diagram should start celeste..w/o
a key and with my blown switch

Parts needed..2 FUSED (50 amp) jumper wires.

Do you guys think this will work?

PS:eek:ldopel guy..I like your idea of a scarf for celeste
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
spoke to gil

FYI:he said hot wiring should work..I am sending in my switch for a rebuild to ogts:)
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
brown wire

Jim B or anyone...what is that brown wire that :"must come off"..
a couple pictures back....

is this for the horn?is it hot? or is it a ground?
 

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Member
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Re: brown wire

bucky said:
Jim B or anyone...what is that brown wire that :"must come off"..
a couple pictures back....

is this for the horn?is it hot? or is it a ground?
According to the wiring diagrams for the 1970 gt, the brown wire is for the horn.

Just look for the horn in the left side of the diagram, you will see the "brown wire" at the bottom, making all its way to the "horn" button.

hth
 
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