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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
brown wire

I think it is a ground wire..thru that brass ring
 

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102 Posts
Re: brown wire

bucky said:
I think it is a ground wire..thru that brass ring
The HORN will sound as you close the "ground" contact. So, yes it is the grounding for the "horn". Remember "OPEL" = "GROUND" = "BROWN":D
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
brown wire

I think it is a ground wire..thru that brass ring
 

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Pathologic Opeler
Joined
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1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
she runs more awesome

In kansas city(as in chiefs 8-0)..when it is going your way ...it is going your way......everything fell into place.

I got celeste to star timmediately and run well..very welll in fact...just finished the late night drive (as I had to check for straightness in my steering wheel)

you guys were right...get a pertronix flamethrower 3 ohm coil,a pertronix ignitor and run a new wire from the box..WOW....lot of bang for the buck..

I always thought I had carb trouble...when I went to the carb web sites...they said most carb trouble is due to ignition..for me they were right...all my trouble was points and an ugly bosch coil on a ballast wire.

my carb is fine..now I need to turn down the idle...I think I was overcompensating for poor ignition.

I am still bypassing my ignition switch with jumpers ..untill I get the parts I need.

tomorrow ..weather will be good and i will be driving Celeste...

special thanks to Micah1 for the pm and phone call,and thanks to Jim branham for the photos that really helped me..plus everybodyelse who pitched in such as oldopelguy and others too:D
 

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Opeler
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139 Posts
I have tried to remove my switch so I can send it to OGTS for a rebuild but I can not get it out. :banghead: With the key in the run position and probing the hole with a fairly stiff wire, I can't seem to find a button to release it. Any suggestions before I send the whole steering assembly to OGTS?

Wayne
 

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Opeler
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159 Posts
i finally gave up on finding the pin to depress and found by sliding the lock and ignition assembly side to side i was able to work the cover off so i could get at the ignition switch. probably not the preferred method but it can be done

bob
 

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Too late on the reply but here it is anyway

If you are sending the switch back in do you really have to take the lock cylinder out. If the cover can be removed there is a screw holding the actual switch in place. Once you have removed the wire terminals from the fuse panel plug you can work the wires up through the top of the column. It has been too long since I've done it to rememeber if the cyl. has to come out.

The picture below is missing the rubber cover that goes around the key but you still should be able to get an idea of where the release button is. Once the steering column filler plug around the cyl. is removed you should be able to see the release button. It is easy to depress when the key is in the correct position.

HTH,
Harold
 

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O.K. here's one for you. In the pic posted by Harold, you'll see the pin you depress to take the lock assembly out of the cylinder. DO NOT let the pin pop out by itself, keep some pressure on it. All that's holding the pin in the cylinder is a washer that is peened in place. Don't ask how I know this, but thanx to Dave aka nobody, I didn't have to tear the garage apart trying to find that little itty bitty pin and spring.
 
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