Opel GT Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Driver
Joined
·
987 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ignition rotor with out the built in resistor

I am having problems with burning up the rotors that have the built in resistor. I have a Jacobs coil along with the Jacobs Ultra igition management system. It is the Jacobs that is causing the problem. But I don't think it is a problem with the Jacobs, it's just trying to put a LOT of current through the resistor and heating it up. After a while the little resistor that is in the rotor just gets hotter and hotter until it just smokes out of the rotor and pretty much melts the rotor. I have seen rotors that are just a straight brass bar across the top. I am not having any luck finding someone who makes one for our 1.9L's. Does anyone know where I can buy these? Or who makes this style? Borg Warner maybe?
Thanks,
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,841 Posts
Just take one of the damaged rotors, remove the epoxy and the (burned)resistor, and solder in a solid piece of copper or brass in it's place. We used to do this to our racing cars that ran the 'hot' ignitions.
 

·
Driver
Joined
·
987 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well that sounds easy enough :)
I should still have one laying around. The last one it happened to turned to something that resembled charcoal, so it is no longer a candidate. I think I have one laying around. If not, I have a brand new one foor sure.
Thanks Bob.
 

·
Driver
Joined
·
987 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Though I think I will try Bob's idea, just because I like modifying things and making them work, I came across this one from BW. Looks like it is what I was talking about.
 

Attachments

·
Driver
Joined
·
987 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
RallyBob said:
Just take one of the damaged rotors, remove the epoxy and the (burned)resistor, and solder in a solid piece of copper or brass in it's place. We used to do this to our racing cars that ran the 'hot' ignitions.
OK, well it sounded too easy. I roughed up the surface on the center contact (spring steel), I used flux, I tried to tin the surface. Solder will NOT stick! It just beads off. So, Bob, how did you get it to stick?
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,842 Posts
If the center is competely clean and a bit roughed up and still no go it means you don't have enough heat from your soldering iron. One trick I used to do while redoing mine was to sand blast them and coat all but the contacts with fiberglass resin. It kept them from arcing over and developing carbon trails from the tip of the rotor. HTH
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,841 Posts
opelenvy said:
OK, well it sounded too easy. I roughed up the surface on the center contact (spring steel), I used flux, I tried to tin the surface. Solder will NOT stick! It just beads off. So, Bob, how did you get it to stick?
Like nobody said, you need more heat! I suggest a commercial-grade soldering iron, if you can borrow one.

A small soldering iron won't cut it, but some soldering guns could handle it.

Bob
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
3,842 Posts
Not too long ago I was in a pinch while on the road and picked up a really nice butane one at a local Radio Shack. I later used it to reattach the plugs on the back defroster glass, so I know it really puts out the heat. They also sell the bigger two range pistol type pretty cheap too.
 

·
Driver
Joined
·
987 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was using my little electronics one. :rolleyes: But I have a heavy duty soldering iron. My mom gave it too me, she does stained glass. I have to find a way to hold it steady. I was using a pair of vice grips, but that is sucking the heat right out of it. :(
Out with the Big A$$ iron!!
Thanks.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top