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My 2.4 stroker is set up with a SSD 45DCOE through an Irmscher intake. It idles well, pulls hard and is fine in traffic and at WOT. There is obviously something amiss with Gordo's specific set-up or a mechanical issue, but the basic SSD concept is perfectly workable. As the saying goes, don't throw the baby out with the bathwater.
Automatic? What Head you use? Irmscher Single Intake??
 

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1971 GT
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635 Posts
Automatic? What Head you use? Irmscher Single Intake??
Not automatic. Getrag 240. The head is a slightly ported delta head with 1.5" exhaust and 1.72" Intake valves. I've attached a pic of the manifold attached to the head. The Solex DDH is no longer on the car.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,251 Posts
Discussion Starter #563
FYI: I got this message from the Chinese carb supplier. I removed the cold start mechanism when I installed it, so it had no effect on my tuning troubles. Most people don't seem to use the cold start device, so this is irrelevant to most. I no longer have the Chinese model 152 on the car, so this is just an FYI.

<<< Sorry to inform you we found issue on the 40/45 DCOE batch. Your carburetor may be affected as well.
The pin on cold start device may get loose, which may cause cold start plunger to stuck in open position, which will ruin the engine.
Easy fix needed to prevent this to happen - please dismantle cold start unit and punch the other end of pin to prevent it to slide out. See attachment.
Sorry for troubles >>>
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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1,593 Posts
I didn't mention all of the attention and tests that the tuner gave to cylinders 1+2. He showed me that cylinder #2 was clearly not detonating with regularity and was fouling and missing intermittently, even though it had excellent compression and new plugs/wires/cap/module. He felt that this was actually caused by a blown head gasket between 1+2 or a valve issue. Blah, blah, blah,.....

It's all talk until I pull the head to see how things look.
Look for a broken ring or ring land in cylinder #1 in addition to head gasket distortion around the fire rings.

'clearly not detonating with regularity'? It should NEVER be detonating.

210 psi cranking compression is FAR TOO HIGH for carburated and pump fuel, especially if this is an iron headed engine. Even with FI and/or an aluminum headed engine, that level of pressure is going to need some detuning and/or timing control. I am really stunned that this tuner guy does not consider 200+ psi compression numbers as a danger sign. Does he build engines? I am thinking not....
 

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Can Opeler
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3,283 Posts
FYI: I got this message from the Chinese carb supplier. I removed the cold start mechanism when I installed it, so it had no effect on my tuning troubles. Most people don't seem to use the cold start device, so this is irrelevant to most. I no longer have the Chinese model 152 on the car, so this is just an FYI.

>
Ha! They copied Weber too good. The older Webers also have this issue. The cold start carburetor (yes it’s basically another carburetor lol) will stick and dribble fuel into the manifold
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,251 Posts
Discussion Starter #566
I just talked with Charlie and we're going to put the head from the 2.2 I bought from him on my 2.4 and do a rough hook up of the Motronic FI. I'll spend the Winter refining the hook up. Man, I really liked that SSD set up, but it's time to move on. F'ing around with engines is not my comfort zone, interest zone, or fun zone, and it's killing my Opel enthusiasm. I'm getting old and I need to push the easy button. No, it won't actually be easy and I'm going to have to spend a bunch of time and a little money getting it all to work and look the way I want it to. That's the plan for now......
 

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I just talked with Charlie and we're going to put the head from the 2.2 I bought from him on my 2.4 and do a rough hook up of the Motronic FI. I'll spend the Winter refining the hook up. Man, I really liked that SSD set up, but it's time to move on. F'ing around with engines is not my comfort zone, interest zone, or fun zone, and it's killing my Opel enthusiasm. I'm getting old and I need to push the easy button. No, it won't actually be easy and I'm going to have to spend a bunch of time and a little money getting it all to work and look the way I want it to. That's the plan for now......
Why not just wait and install the 2.2 complete with FI as originally planned? Then you can have the tear down done on your 2.4, since there’s a possibility that you could need work done with the pistons/rings? If you go through the whole 2.4 as a complete engine it might not take much to restore it. I get the fact that it’s easier to remove a cylinder head than the whole engine, a slight roll of the dice for you since the rings could be in question. I like the FI idea, Charles has been working with that for a while now and will be a solid resource to have on your side, with a good engine you shouldn’t have to look back after it’s set up. From what you’re saying that’ll be a good fit since you don’t like tuning carbs very much. I wish you the best of luck with whatever you decide.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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14,251 Posts
Discussion Starter #568 (Edited)
Why not just wait and install the 2.2 complete with FI as originally planned?
Many reasons. The 2.4 IS rebuilt about 2 years ago. I have no reason at the present time to suspect that there's anything wrong with the short block. The "original plan" was to put the 2.2 with FI in the Wagon project that I bailed on. It's inconvenient to sell that engine or ask for my money back on it, so I'll have a new engine sitting in my basement doing me no good. I really have no desire to pull the entire azz-kickin' engine to install a "lesser" engine. The 2.4's characteristics suit me quite well. I'm told that the 2.2 head should be virtually the same as the 2.4's. I have reason to suspect that something might not be right with my present 2.4 head and I'll have to pull the head anyway to investigate.

After about $7000 spent on that used OGTS engine and it's rebuild and troubles thereafter I'm starting to feel that that engine, or at least the head, is cursed.. It doesn't leak one drop of oil after 2 years and disconnecting my auto tranny is a chore. I'm sick and tired of dropping my engines. Apparently you are relatively new to my 10 year saga and haven't read my travails. See my humongous "Gordo's GTX" thread. The new head will have the same Omega cam as the 2.4 and the Omega Motronic FI that ran it. My present head was one of the first, if not THE first engine Charlie's machine shop did and maybe some mistakes were made. The oil plugs popping out was just one that we know of.

Long story shorter, it would simply be quicker and a little easier and I'll have the 2.4 engine from an Opel Omega(refurbished as a 2.5 with bigger valves) and a hybrid of the Motronic FI that a 2.4 Opel Omega has. It's a hybrid because the Motronic intake manifold won't fit under a GT's hood, so I have to use either a 2.0 or 2.2 Jetronic or a cut down to 4 cylinders oversized manifold from a 3.0 6 cylinder Opel CIH engine. Charlie will bring all those options up here and we'll see which one fits and looks the best. I'm fuzzy on all the details of all of this, it's Charlie's job to figure all this stuff out and install it. He's already been paid to take care of it all. If we see reason to believe that the 2.4 short block needs to come out, I could always default to putting the whole 2.2 engine in, but the block isn't ready yet and who knows when it will be. I have no idea when we'll do all of this, it could happen in 2 weeks or 2 months from now, it depends on the weather, parts gathering, and our individual schedules.

My head is spinning from all of this engine trouble and install nonsense that I've been going through since May and I'm totally burned out from it all.

:sigh:


Easy button.jpg
 

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Why not just wait and install the 2.2 complete with FI as originally planned? Then you can have the tear down done on your 2.4, since there’s a possibility that you could need work done with the pistons/rings? If you go through the whole 2.4 as a complete engine it might not take much to restore it. I get the fact that it’s easier to remove a cylinder head than the whole engine, a slight roll of the dice for you since the rings could be in question. I like the FI idea, Charles has been working with that for a while now and will be a solid resource to have on your side, with a good engine you shouldn’t have to look back after it’s set up. From what you’re saying that’ll be a good fit since you don’t like tuning carbs very much. I wish you the best of luck with whatever you decide.
I'm with him on this. You have a working engine, swap them out. Work on the other later in the Fall/Winter. At this point you need to do what I do. Just walk away. It will be there tomorrow. Swap it out later this week, have the necessary items ready and just do it. Then you have a car to show, maybe not what you had envisioned, but you'll be out there driving. Just my thoughts Gordo, and for what it's worth sorry all this piled on. Remember the saying S*** Happens, it does and will. Take care, Jarrell
 

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I’m thinking you want to clean up your FI thread and further comments on your engine might be more appropriate here. I didn’t think you’d leave anyone hanging on the details, I’d definitely have to walk away for probably much longer than you did. This whole story has been downhill, I’m not sure why all this happened but to me it seemed like trouble with the lower end once your tuner guy did the wet compression test. I’m sure this was a difficult decision you just had to make. You can always do the tear down once you get the engine out or send it to the machine shop who put it together and get more details. I’d be very curious to get more details if it happened to me. Good decision and I’m backing you 100% on this one. You’ve got a good guy (Charles) on your side here. Maybe you can get some return $ on this engine down the road when you cross that bridge. Best of luck.
 
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