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Bikini Inspector
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Something I learned on the Pertronix is that the magnetic rotor can sometimes not align with the pick up unit.
Also, on one, I had to move the pickup ridiculously close to the magnetic rotor. You might want to check those two things.

I designed and printed a better rotor for these conditions but the plastic I used is biodegradable so it's not fit to send to anyone. Someday I'll print a bunch in ABS and offer them as a substitute.
pertronix 3 doesnt use a magnetic pickup. or any kind of collar on dizzy lobe
 

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Über Genius
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8,748 Posts

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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13,781 Posts
Discussion Starter #103
Progress so far....

I managed to get a new ball stud attached to my linkage adapter lever. I added red Loktite to the threads and installed the linkage rod, so now I'm ready to test a new cap and rotor. I got a new diz cap: Made by Beru in Germany. It's noticably heavier than my Bosch. I'm pretty sure the parts guy at my very good auto store got it by looking up the number that RallyBob provided for a Standard Motor Products diz cap #GB423.
He also suggested a resistorless rotor by CB Performance, but I can't find them anywhere. The rotor the store gave me was too small a diameter inside, so I'm heading heading out to the store to get one that fits. I'll let ya know how it works out....
 

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Member
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1,502 Posts
I have loaded a photo of the rotor buttons used in Opels.
The one on the left is from a 74 Capri or Pinto 2.3 and the middle is a Bosch unit. A stock unit is on the end.
HTH
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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13,781 Posts
Discussion Starter #105
It took an hour and a half of driving to fetch a rotor for the diz. I started at about 8am pushing cars and winching the GTX onto my lift and repairing the linkage and fetching a diz cap and rotor and it is now 5 pm. No breakfast, lunch, or dinner, just a cup of coffee. It was a beautiful day and my town and all the ones around it were buzzing with activity, events, beer tastings, etc. I was in my dang garage.

I installed the rotor and cap, the car started right up and ran okay, but I could still detect the misses, even though my neighbor and renter couldn't. I got to the 10 minute mark and felt confident that I could take it for a test drive. I position my HEAVY ramps on the lift and start to climb into my Ford to get it out of the way........

Then the sputtering began.

Then the car shut off completely.

Same old story.

I fetched my camera and was able to catch a repeat performance for your viewing pleasure:

https://youtu.be/-jdEUs7Jrog
 

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It took an hour and a half of driving to fetch a rotor for the diz. I started at about 8am pushing cars and winching the GTX onto my lift and repairing the linkage and fetching a diz cap and rotor and it is now 5 pm. No breakfast, lunch, or dinner, just a cup of coffee. It was a beautiful day and my town and all the ones around it were buzzing with activity, events, beer tastings, etc. I was in my dang garage.

I installed the rotor and cap, the car started right up and ran okay, but I could still detect the misses, even though my neighbor and renter couldn't. I got to the 10 minute mark and felt confident that I could take it for a test drive. I position my HEAVY ramps on the lift and start to climb into my Ford to get it out of the way........

Then the sputtering began.

Then the car shut off completely.

Same old story.

I fetched my camera and was able to catch a repeat performance for your viewing pleasure:

https://youtu.be/-jdEUs7Jrog
Well by god, you did get a chuckle outa me with the video, Sounds like me. Damn it man, a very sweet ride indeed. IMHO sounds like it ran outa fuel. What did it do after you finished filming? Did you try to restart it and what did it do? Check your fuel delivery, I don't see visually anything to stop it from running. Good luck, keep us informed on what it is/was. Jarrell
 

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Opeler
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3,562 Posts
Gordon, it appears there is not much more you can check related to the ignition. Focus on the fuel system, particularly unrestricted flow of gas.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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13,781 Posts
Discussion Starter #109
I just checked my battery connections, wiring routing and sharp stuff avoidance, corrosion, etc. All perfect. While I was messing with electrical I got the voltmeter out and Ohmed my MSD spark plug wires:
32 ohms - coil to diz
42 ohms - #1
61 ohms - #2
80 ohms - #3
95 ohms - #4


I agree, I think I've chased the ignition as the cause long enough, I think I'll look at fuel delivery next.

Hmmmm......I think there's a filter screen in the carb........I'll go and check that now........


Just checked: Clean as a whistle.

Valve worked freely, looks brand new, no binds in the float, soaked up all the fuel in the bowl, clean as a whistle, too. Everything looks great at the carb, like, better than I remember great, brand new looking. No loose bolts at the block/intake/carb unions. Everything looks freakin' perfect.

:sigh:
 

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So, the last we checked in, you had a severe vibration when the car was put into gear...... Now, it has progressed to the point where it is shaking and baking and stalling out even in idle. Yesterday, your symptoms in gear indicated bad motor/transmission mounts OR a defective transmission or even possibly a loose flex plate. I don't believe that is going on based on your stalling out at idle.

Norbert again raises a good point. So..... what is your battery voltage at idle at start up to the point it stalls out on you? How is the battery condition wise? How are the connections? How is the ground? You are running a high performance ignition system that needs a set steady voltage to run or it won't run very well at all. It'd be nice to know what your spark looks like to each cylinder but you don't have the tool to do that.

Fuel Pressure: It'd be good to know what your fuel pressure is when you first turn the Key On/Engine Off to see what your baseline pressure is going up to the carb........ Then, when you start the car and run it at idle, observe the fuel pressure. Ideally, it should not vary at all. It should read a steady 3.5 psi or whatever that fuel pump puts out.

So, right now, you need to work off of your baseline voltage and baseline fuel pump pressure in order to properly rule either one out as your culprit. We all know these inline fuel pumps don't have a great record of reliability. If you don't know what these voltages and pressures are exactly, then you are basically playing a guessing/parts changing game.

Also would not hurt to do a check of all wire connections for the ignition system to ensure something isn't loose or half broke or what have you. A check of the condition of your spark plugs is an easy check too.

Good luck.

MSD ignition box test:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Qb9JxX-mLg

Did you do a check of the plug wires with the motor running as GuyOpel suggested yesterday? What was the outcome of that test, if you did it?
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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13,781 Posts
Discussion Starter #114
Various posts from Facebook after seeing the "FU" video:

Justin Thell Sorry for the laugh react, but I've totally been there and reacted the same.
Manage
Like
· Reply · 3h
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton No problem. I wouldn't have used the New Jersey form of "Hello" if I still didn't have a sense of humor about this.
2
Manage
Like
· Reply · 3h
Bill Cravens
Bill Cravens Gordon Payton This is sounding like one of those 1000 cuss word problems! After saying the magic number of cuss words the problem instantly solves itself. I told a friend my wife and I cover the whole spectrum when there’s a big problem - I say every known cuss word and she says every known prayer! 😬😂🤣
2
Manage
Haha
· Reply · 2h
Bill Cravens
Bill Cravens
Image may contain: 1 person, text
Manage
Like
· Reply · 53m
Gordon Payton
Write a reply...

Justin Thell
Justin Thell Kind of seems like a timing issue to me. Is the distributor locked down tight? Have you checked base timing?
Manage
Like
· Reply · 3h · Edited
Jamie Johnston
Jamie Johnston check connections on coil, and to the fusebox? maybe loose connection in fusebox? so now its stumbling in park. and runs damn good for here and there. jets or loose connections
Manage
Like
· Reply · 3h
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton I'm a "by ear" and driving behavior guy when it comes to timing. Opels have enough range of okay timing range where what happened shouldn't have happened. Yeah, everything is tight.
1
Manage
Like
· Reply · 3h · Edited
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton I haven't looked at the battery connections, 'cuz they're in a box. I did mess with that recently, I'll go out and take a look........
Manage
Like
· Reply · 3h
Jamie Johnston
Jamie Johnston something is intermittent.
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· Reply · 3h
Alan Simpson
Alan Simpson Wow that kinda sounds like it is starving for gas
Manage
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· Reply · 3h
Rob Cassidy
Rob Cassidy Do you still have a condenser?
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· Reply · 3h
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton I had an AccuFire trigger with an MSD box when the problem started. As my first attempt at solving this problem, I installed a new Pertronix Ignitor 3 trigger and removed the wiring to the MSD(It's now there just to look cool). I rewired, crimped, and tidyed up the wiring and attachment points to car show specs.
Manage
No photo description available.
Like
· Reply · 3h · Edited
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton I just checked my battery connections, wiring routing and sharp stuff avoidance, corrosion, etc. All perfect. While I was messing with electrical I got the voltmeter out and Ohmed my MSD spark plug wires:
32 ohms - coil to diz
42 ohms - #1
61 ohms - #2
80 ohms - #3
95 ohms - #4
Manage
Like
· Reply · 3h
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton PJ suggested moving on to the fuel delivery system, I agree, I think I've chased the ignition as the cause long enough, I think I'll look at fuel delivery next.

Hmmmm......I think there's a filter screen in the carb........I'll go and check that now........

Just checked: Clean as a whistle.

Valve worked freely, looks brand new, no binds in the float, soaked up all the fuel in the bowl, clean as a whistle, too. Everything looks great at the carb, like, better than I remember great, brand new looking. No loose bolts at the block/intake/carb unions. I did a cursory check of the main and idle jets yesterday, I blew through them and pulled apart the ones I could by hand. Everything looks freakin' perfect. Tomorrow I'll pull them apart and give them a more thorough inspection.
1
Manage
Like
· Reply · 2h
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton Tomorrow I will maybe temporarily install either the previous fuel pump or a new one I have, both are the clickety-clack noisy Posiflow type and I'll run a brand new temporary rubber fuel line all the way from the pump to the carb. Presently, I have 8 feet of metal line in the middle with rubber at the ends.
Manage
Like
· Reply · 2h
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton Can anyone think of a scenario where something under the valve cover could cause all this?
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Like
· Reply · 2h
Charles Goin
Charles Goin No . Its in your Carb..
2
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· Reply · 2h
Kyler Norman
Kyler Norman Gordon Payton do you have an air fuel ratio gauge? You really need one with the DCOE they have way too many little problems that can quickly be solved with an AFR gauge.
Manage
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· Reply · 1h · Edited
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton No, we will not rejet our carb after 8000 miles of excellent running.
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· Reply · 8m
Kyler Norman
Kyler Norman Gordon Payton no need to rejet these carbs regularly get small problems. For example sometimes the fuel enrichment circuit will go bad and leak fuel into the intake at idle.
Manage
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· Reply · 2m
Gordon Payton
Write a reply...

Justin Thell
Justin Thell Where is the brake booster hooked up? Maybe unplug the hose and cap it to eliminate that as a possible source of a vac leak?
1
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Like
· Reply · 2h
Gary Farias
Gary Farias Are you able to look into the carb to see is gas is dripping out? Have you looked at the plugs after it dies out?
1
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Like
· Reply · 1h
Charles Goin
Charles Goin While your pulling the plugs to check condition. Do a compression test.. :)
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· Reply · 1h
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton Tomorrow is supposed to rain. To do list: Thoroughly check and clean my spotless jets. Temp install a diaphragm-style fuel pump and a new temporary rubber fuel line straight from the pump to the carb. Charlie wants a compression test and Gary wants me …See More
1
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· Reply · 1h · Edited
Rally Bob
Rally Bob Definitely sounds like it runs out of fuel.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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13,781 Posts
Discussion Starter #115
Various posts from Facebook after seeing the "FU" video:

Justin Thell Sorry for the laugh react, but I've totally been there and reacted the same.
Manage
Like
· Reply · 3h
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton No problem. I wouldn't have used the New Jersey form of "Hello" if I still didn't have a sense of humor about this.
2
Manage
Like
· Reply · 3h
Bill Cravens
Bill Cravens Gordon Payton This is sounding like one of those 1000 cuss word problems! After saying the magic number of cuss words the problem instantly solves itself. I told a friend my wife and I cover the whole spectrum when there’s a big problem - I say every known cuss word and she says every known prayer! 😬😂🤣
2
Manage
Haha
· Reply · 2h
Bill Cravens
Bill Cravens
Image may contain: 1 person, text
Manage
Like
· Reply · 53m
Gordon Payton
Write a reply...

Justin Thell
Justin Thell Kind of seems like a timing issue to me. Is the distributor locked down tight? Have you checked base timing?
Manage
Like
· Reply · 3h · Edited
Jamie Johnston
Jamie Johnston check connections on coil, and to the fusebox? maybe loose connection in fusebox? so now its stumbling in park. and runs damn good for here and there. jets or loose connections
Manage
Like
· Reply · 3h
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton I'm a "by ear" and driving behavior guy when it comes to timing. Opels have enough range of okay timing range where what happened shouldn't have happened. Yeah, everything is tight.
1
Manage
Like
· Reply · 3h · Edited
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton I haven't looked at the battery connections, 'cuz they're in a box. I did mess with that recently, I'll go out and take a look........
Manage
Like
· Reply · 3h
Jamie Johnston
Jamie Johnston something is intermittent.
Manage
Like
· Reply · 3h
Alan Simpson
Alan Simpson Wow that kinda sounds like it is starving for gas
Manage
Like
· Reply · 3h
Rob Cassidy
Rob Cassidy Do you still have a condenser?
Manage
Like
· Reply · 3h
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton I had an AccuFire trigger with an MSD box when the problem started. As my first attempt at solving this problem, I installed a new Pertronix Ignitor 3 trigger and removed the wiring to the MSD(It's now there just to look cool). I rewired, crimped, and tidyed up the wiring and attachment points to car show specs.
Manage
No photo description available.
Like
· Reply · 3h · Edited
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton I just checked my battery connections, wiring routing and sharp stuff avoidance, corrosion, etc. All perfect. While I was messing with electrical I got the voltmeter out and Ohmed my MSD spark plug wires:
32 ohms - coil to diz
42 ohms - #1
61 ohms - #2
80 ohms - #3
95 ohms - #4
Manage
Like
· Reply · 3h
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton PJ suggested moving on to the fuel delivery system, I agree, I think I've chased the ignition as the cause long enough, I think I'll look at fuel delivery next.

Hmmmm......I think there's a filter screen in the carb........I'll go and check that now........

Just checked: Clean as a whistle.

Valve worked freely, looks brand new, no binds in the float, soaked up all the fuel in the bowl, clean as a whistle, too. Everything looks great at the carb, like, better than I remember great, brand new looking. No loose bolts at the block/intake/carb unions. I did a cursory check of the main and idle jets yesterday, I blew through them and pulled apart the ones I could by hand. Everything looks freakin' perfect. Tomorrow I'll pull them apart and give them a more thorough inspection.
1
Manage
Like
· Reply · 2h
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton Tomorrow I will maybe temporarily install either the previous fuel pump or a new one I have, both are the clickety-clack noisy Posiflow type and I'll run a brand new temporary rubber fuel line all the way from the pump to the carb. Presently, I have 8 feet of metal line in the middle with rubber at the ends.
Manage
Like
· Reply · 2h
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton Can anyone think of a scenario where something under the valve cover could cause all this?
Manage
Like
· Reply · 2h
Charles Goin
Charles Goin No . Its in your Carb..
2
Manage
Like
· Reply · 2h
Kyler Norman
Kyler Norman Gordon Payton do you have an air fuel ratio gauge? You really need one with the DCOE they have way too many little problems that can quickly be solved with an AFR gauge.
Manage
Like
· Reply · 1h · Edited
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton No, we will not rejet our carb after 8000 miles of excellent running.
Manage
Like
· Reply · 8m
Kyler Norman
Kyler Norman Gordon Payton no need to rejet these carbs regularly get small problems. For example sometimes the fuel enrichment circuit will go bad and leak fuel into the intake at idle.
Manage
Like
· Reply · 2m
Gordon Payton
Write a reply...

Justin Thell
Justin Thell Where is the brake booster hooked up? Maybe unplug the hose and cap it to eliminate that as a possible source of a vac leak?
1
Manage
Like
· Reply · 2h
Gary Farias
Gary Farias Are you able to look into the carb to see is gas is dripping out? Have you looked at the plugs after it dies out?
1
Manage
Like
· Reply · 1h
Charles Goin
Charles Goin While your pulling the plugs to check condition. Do a compression test.. :)
Manage
Like
· Reply · 1h
Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton Tomorrow is supposed to rain. To do list: Thoroughly check and clean my spotless jets. Temp install a diaphragm-style fuel pump and a new temporary rubber fuel line straight from the pump to the carb. Charlie wants a compression test and Gary wants me to look at my plugs, so I'll do those 2 things at the same time. If no anomalies are detected and the car still runs like ****, I will take the 7.5 gallons of fuel I pumped out and pour it over the car and burn the bastard.
1
Manage
Like
· Reply · 1h · Edited
Rally Bob
Rally Bob Definitely sounds like it runs out of fuel.
 

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Registered
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Various posts from Facebook after seeing the "FU" video:


Gordon Payton No problem. I wouldn't have used the New Jersey form of "Hello" if I still didn't have a sense of humor about this.
Justin Thell
Justin Thell Kind of seems like a timing issue to me. Is the distributor locked down tight? Have you checked base timing? (Good question)

Jamie Johnston check connections on coil, and to the fusebox? maybe loose connection in fusebox? so now its stumbling in park. and runs damn good for here and there. jets or loose connections. (Another)

Gordon Payton I'm a "by ear" and driving behavior guy when it comes to timing. Opels have enough range of okay timing range where what happened shouldn't have happened. Yeah, everything is tight.

Gordon Payton I haven't looked at the battery connections, 'cuz they're in a box. I did mess with that recently, I'll go out and take a look........

Jamie Johnston something is intermittent. ( Could very well be)


Alan Simpson Wow that kinda sounds like it is starving for gas ( Very possible)


Rob Cassidy Do you still have a condenser?

Gordon Payton I had an AccuFire trigger with an MSD box when the problem started. As my first attempt at solving this problem, I installed a new Pertronix Ignitor 3 trigger and removed the wiring to the MSD(It's now there just to look cool). I rewired, crimped, and tidyed up the wiring and attachment points to car show specs.

Gordon Payton I just checked my battery connections, wiring routing and sharp stuff avoidance, corrosion, etc. All perfect. While I was messing with electrical I got the voltmeter out and Ohmed my MSD spark plug wires:
32 ohms - coil to diz
42 ohms - #1
61 ohms - #2
80 ohms - #3
95 ohms - #4

Gordon Payton PJ suggested moving on to the fuel delivery system, I agree, I think I've chased the ignition as the cause long enough, I think I'll look at fuel delivery next. (all of these seem within range)

Hmmmm......I think there's a filter screen in the carb........I'll go and check that now........

Just checked: Clean as a whistle. (not plugged, Good)

Valve worked freely, looks brand new, no binds in the float, soaked up all the fuel in the bowl, clean as a whistle, too. Everything looks great at the carb, like, better than I remember great, brand new looking. No loose bolts at the block/intake/carb unions. I did a cursory check of the main and idle jets yesterday, I blew through them and pulled apart the ones I could by hand. Everything looks freakin' perfect. Tomorrow I'll pull them apart and give them a more thorough inspection.

Gordon Payton
Gordon Payton Can anyone think of a scenario where something under the valve cover could cause all this?

Charles Goin
Charles Goin No . Its in your Carb.. (Compression test would rule this out.)

Kyler Norman
Kyler Norman Gordon Payton do you have an air fuel ratio gauge? You really need one with the DCOE they have way too many little problems that can quickly be solved with an AFR gauge. (Yes)

Kyler Norman Gordon Payton no need to rejet these carbs regularly get small problems. For example sometimes the fuel enrichment circuit will go bad and leak fuel into the intake at idle. (again yes)

Justin Thell Where is the brake booster hooked up? Maybe unplug the hose and cap it to eliminate that as a possible source of a vac leak? (could be possible)

Gary Farias Are you able to look into the carb to see is gas is dripping out? Have you looked at the plugs after it dies out? (Again Yes)

Charles Goin
Charles Goin While your pulling the plugs to check condition. Do a compression test.. :) ( asked again)

Rally Bob Definitely sounds like it runs out of fuel.
(Again could be the fuel pump, and in what condition are the rubber fuel lines. I have seen them collapse)
Again just thoughts. It really seems to me to be something fuel related. Jarrell
 

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It’s just not right! Well you have a dependable ignition, I just browsed back over the posts on here and didn’t see anything about the plug wires until now, maybe you’ve gotta have a set of “old reliables” laying around with your spare parts. I’ve been fooled by ohm readings, my #1 wasn’t firing and All sooty I replaced the wires anyway and that fixed it. There’s nothing quicker than a 10 minute spark plug wire replacement, heck you may as well check the plugs and make it a full 20 minutes, well a bit more on your GT but easy and this time low or no cost. If you’ve tried all this disregard, if not it could be time well spent. It’s often the things I think “there’s absolutely NO reason I should bother with that”! Maybe you have some recently purchased mint condition item that you absolutely refuse to look at. They are my biggest oversights. You know I’m big on the AFR gage like Kyler, an excellent future suggestion if you’re running a Weber. Chances are on a stock CIH anyway it’s either on one side or the other in my experience not the engine itself, those engines are just too darn reliable. I really believe you’ll get it figured out, in fact I have no doubt. ;)
 

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It’s just not right! Well you have a dependable ignition, I just browsed back over the posts on here and didn’t see anything about the plug wires until now, maybe you’ve gotta have a set of “old reliables” laying around with your spare parts. I’ve been fooled by ohm readings, my #1 wasn’t firing and All sooty I replaced the wires anyway and that fixed it. There’s nothing quicker than a 10 minute spark plug wire replacement, heck you may as well check the plugs and make it a full 20 minutes, well a bit more on your GT but easy and this time low or no cost. If you’ve tried all this disregard, if not it could be time well spent. It’s often the things I think “there’s absolutely NO reason I should bother with that”! Maybe you have some recently purchased mint condition item that you absolutely refuse to look at. They are my biggest oversights. You know I’m big on the AFR gage like Kyler, an excellent future suggestion if you’re running a Weber. Chances are on a stock CIH anyway it’s either on one side or the other in my experience not the engine itself, those engines are just too darn reliable. I really believe you’ll get it figured out, in fact I have no doubt. ;)
I agree with Tom, it's to be one of those "little things" that screw up the whole ball of wax. Jarrell
 
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