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Opeler
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I had an eerily similar issue. Ended up being a bad coil. Would start fine and then when temps rose in engine, idle would drop and I'd drop cylinders firing. The coil was a new chrome one, it only lasted a couple of months. Switched back to basic black one and all good.

Something similar happened again a few months later, that ended up being a pertronix unit that lost a magnet.

Good luck
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #122
I had an eerily similar issue. Ended up being a bad coil. Would start fine and then when temps rose in engine, idle would drop and I'd drop cylinders firing. The coil was a new chrome one, it only lasted a couple of months. Switched back to basic black one and all good.

Something similar happened again a few months later, that ended up being a pertronix unit that lost a magnet.

Good luck
Hey man! How ya doing? Haven't heard from you for a long while. I never knew whether you got your car done and running. Did you post a wrap up of your build once you got it done?

Links and pics please.

:veryhappy
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #123
I never liked electric fuel pumps on carb cars just saying
I'm going to swap in a different new pump I have today.

Maybe I'll swap in those plugs wires you had on the Manta to see what happens.


Is there a chance that I have a faulty spark plug that starts to fail as the engine heats up and starts to fire intermittantly?
 

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Opeler
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Is there a chance that I have a faulty spark plug that starts to fail as the engine heats up and starts to fire intermittantly?
Theoretically yes, but it will not cause engine to shut down like in your case. Stick with fuel system troubleshooting today.

It is good idea that you will swap the pump but do not exclude the possibility that fuel flow could be restricted before it reaches the pump (clogged sock in the tank, clogged pump fuel filter, clogged or kinked gas line). Actually, I would start from there and troubleshoot step by step toward carburetor.
Good luck. Not fun job but you will win.
 

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This why I have two pumps. One is in a standby mode, simple flick of the switch will change the pump. Possibly something to consider when you sort out the things.
I like the idea, I don't like the plastic/Nylon fittings. Buy some brass ones from McMaster.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #128 (Edited)
OMG. This is turning into a nightmare.

After all this part swapping and replacing of every single relatively new thing on the car with brand new things, there's no way I'll drive this crapp bucket to Carlisle. I'm burned out from work and recovering from multiple hand injuries and now I'm burned out from endless part swapping, wire checking, fuel and electrical system redos, etc.

I should just enjoy the run up to the show and the couple of extra days off from work I'll take at the end of this coming week to de-stress and enjoy life.

I'll just drive the Solstice to the show.

I'll take Norbert's model of my car and display it in the back of the Solstice and enter both cars in the "Opel Other" category.

:sigh:
 

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Changing parts without a clue as to the output values of the parts already on the car........sooner or later you're bound to change the right part.

For future reference, consider a plumb-in a fuel pressure gauge leading up to that weber, located in the engine compartment. They even have chromey ones for show cars

A guage can show a lot of things going on within that sub-system and save you a shyte load of aggravation
 

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I'll take Norbert's model of my car and display it in the back of the Solstice and enter both cars in the "Opel Other" category.
Hmmm.......I guess I could enter the F-150 Lightning in the "Other NOpel" category too!
 

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I like the idea, I don't like the plastic/Nylon fittings. Buy some brass ones from McMaster.
Steel is real. Brass.....especially cheap Chinese brass, cracks. Recall running across nylon or steel lines in modern high press efi systems.....not so much brass. Must be a reason?:confused:
 

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Did you run new wires to the fuel pump... a Hot 12volt and a Ground from the the fusbox ground.. If your only ground on the fuel pump in a Chassis or body ground, the pump might be turning off and on from that intermittently .... It sounds like something simple now.. loose fuse, or wire ... just trying to help ..
 

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Administrator
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Changing parts without a clue as to the output values of the parts already on the car........sooner or later you're bound to change the right part.

For future reference, consider a plumb-in a fuel pressure gauge leading up to that weber, located in the engine compartment. They even have chromey ones for show cars

A gauge can show a lot of things going on within that sub-system and save you a shyte load of aggravation
I added fuel pressure gauges to both the Senator and 24v wagon. Sending unit on the line and gauge in the car. Just a glance will show if you have any fuel delivery issues.
 

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Fuel pressure testing

Gordo, I'm having similar, but far less severe, problems with my 1952 MGTD with the 2.3L Ford Pinto motor and automatic transmission. I was talking to the guy at O'Reillys Auto Parts about it and he suggested testing the fuel pump also. They have a "test kit" that you "pay for" (security deposit is the $$ as the cost) then it is fully "refunded" when you bring it back. I'm guessing that your favorite store has the same kind of deal. If you already have a test kit, ignore me (you usually do anyway :lmao:)!

Doug
 

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Changing parts without a clue as to the output values of the parts already on the car........sooner or later you're bound to change the right part.

For future reference, consider a plumb-in a fuel pressure gauge leading up to that weber, located in the engine compartment.
I do have a plumb-in chrome pressure gauge on a built 454 Holley Double Pump with a Edelelbrock intake on my Dually. It works well. Changing random parts out, sounds like a crap shoot to me. Do 1 at a time until you hit the right one is my humble opinion. Jarrell
 

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OMG. This is turning into a nightmare.

After all this part swapping and replacing of every single relatively new thing on the car with brand new things, there's no way I'll drive this crapp bucket to Carlisle. I'm burned out from work and recovering from multiple hand injuries and now I'm burned out from endless part swapping, wire checking, fuel and electrical system redos, etc.

I should just enjoy the run up to the show and the couple of extra days off from work I'll take at the end of this coming week to de-stress and enjoy life.

I'll just drive the Solstice to the show.

I'll take Norbert's model of my car and display it in the back of the Solstice and enter both cars in the "Opel Other" category.

<img src="http://www.opelgt.com/forums/images/smilies/sigh.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Sigh" class="inlineimg" />
On the fuel side see how fast it comes out from the outlet of the filter if you just dumped all that fuel through the sock etc you have good flow from the tank. Tee in a temporary pressure gauge before the carburetor (mandatory) and I like having the clear filter right before the carburetor run the car in gear after warm up like you did before. If no changes put the Manta wires & coil in, Give it a try. You’ll see something. If for some odd reason you don’t I agree put the car cover on and walk away. Our advice has got to be turning into white noise by now anyway. I didn’t enjoy having my GT until I finally baught a used 81’ Toyota pick up with that legendary 22r for my daily driver when I was younger and didn’t have much $ the GT was my primary, normal wear & tear set in and I was miserable, back in the 80’s. I ignored all of the critics, much bad mouthing of the Opel was happening back then no mechanics wanted to work on it because no parts weren’t available and I wore Gil down pretty good before I finally bought the pick up. (That’s okay if you’re like the old lady in the airplane movie after reading this I just thought it might help) Now it’s funny how all of those critics have disappeared, just compliments and good story’s from people now. If you do walk away It’s amazing how a little time, a couple of weeks or so after engaging in life putting things in perspective can help clear things up. The solution can be found during that time sometimes. I don’t blame you if you have already put the car cover on and are enjoying your day. You can always try this stuff in a few weeks.
 
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Did you run new wires to the fuel pump... a Hot 12volt and a Ground from the the fusbox ground.. If your only ground on the fuel pump in a Chassis or body ground, the pump might be turning off and on from that intermittently .... It sounds like something simple now.. loose fuse, or wire ... just trying to help ..
Maybe:confused: I have never hear before that four pumps failed in souch short time now :thinking: okay one was only to loud.
But for wires and grounds its must have the right cross section.

One for me is unclear! Why the engine drop so much down out of timing when shift to drive? So fast the carb reservoir can not go empty!
But Gordo wrote all bolts and brackets are clear!
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Discussion Starter #138
Geesus gawd, if I added all the gauges that people have suggested, my car would look like this:

Gauges complex.jpg

The problem will, of course, turn out to be a loose lug nut and then all the guys with dashboards like this.....

Gauges simple.jpg

....will chime in saying they have no problem fixing their cars.
 

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Über Genius
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Steel is real. Brass.....especially cheap Chinese brass, cracks. Recall running across nylon or steel lines in modern high press efi systems.....not so much brass. Must be a reason?:confused:
Simply put, brass raw materials cost more.
 

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Über Genius
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A fuel pressure gauge won't show fuel flow issues as much.

I do agree, however, that this is a fuel delivery issue at this point. OR a bad, overheating, coil. (I'd REALLY like to see what the coil is actually doing when the engine starts to crap out)

I had an overheating coil before. It had the same symptoms as Gordo is having. It ran great for a hundred miles one day and the next I couldn't count on 10 minutes. After almost 40 years I still don't have a clue about coils. (and it's supposed to be easy to understand).

So, with everything that's been replaced, it's coil or fuel for me.

Fuel... The electric fuel pumps can go out quickly. They can get crud in them or just worn out quickly. The wrong pump will have too much pressure and blow out a needle valve. Too weak of pressure and the needle valve can stick and the pressure won't open it.

Could be a piece of gunk in the carb(s). Just spraying them out won't always work. I've seen a clear piece of "substance" flip back and forth in an idle jet before. Drove me insane til I found it. The jet always looked clear.

Could be a faulty ground on the fuel pump. Could be a faulty wire connection along the way. Could just be a bad luck on the fuel pump front.

FWIW, the fuel pump went out on my GT without notice. One day I went to get in to drive and there was no start. I figured I couldn't possibly be the fuel pump. It was only 3 months old...

You need a fuel gauge and a way to observe the flow. (clear filter near the carb).

It would also be helpful if you knew which ghosts to chase, how to chase them, and not chase your tail by just swapping out random parts until something works. Diagnosis is a difficult science but necessary if you want to avoid frustration. Determining what segment of the event chain is faulty is the #1 thing of diagnosis.
Is it electrical, fuel, or mechanical? First step in 20 questions of what's wrong with my car?
 
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