[Gary]

I was putting new valve seals in a block I'm setting up for the wagon with the head on. When I got to cylinder #2, air kept flowing past the exhaust valve so I decided to pull the head. When I got the head off, I noticed a gouge that looks like something was crushed between the head and block.

The headgasket was intact and there is evidence the engine was rebuilt.

Short of decking the block, can anything else be done to save this?

 

[RallyBob]

Short of decking the block, can anything else be done to save this?

Normally I'd say yes, but this indentation occurs right on the fire ring contact area. No filler materials or sealers will take that kind of heat/pressure. Doesn't look too good...

 

[baz]

Normally I'd say yes, but this indentation occurs right on the fire ring contact area. No filler materials or sealers will take that kind of heat/pressure. Doesn't look too good...

bob would that braze ?
if done in a good weld shop with a pre heater the brazing would not affect the block and there should be no cracking it can then be lightly decked andshould be ok with the heat and pressure

 

[RallyBob]

bob would that braze ?
if done in a good weld shop with a pre heater the brazing would not affect the block and there should be no cracking it can then be lightly decked andshould be ok with the heat and pressure

Yes, it could be brazed. But if you are going to do that it needs to be decked afterwards, and most likely you could remove the indent from decking alone. I *think* Gary is trying to keep from disassembling the block and bringing it to the machinist if possible!

 

[GTJIM (R.I.P.)]

Bummer!

The 3rd pic seems to show that the gasket has failed in this area so there is a problem there. Just putting another gasket on is not an option.
The sealing surface must be rebuilt in that area.

Looks like the motor has a low-compression pistons and has not been re-ringed so I asume it is a "get-it-running-reliably-for-now" proposition.
That being said, decking the block to remove the imperfection is probably the "right' way to be sure to fix it but would involve a strip down and rebuild.
You may be able to peen a bit of metal up into that area with a small ball peen hammer and smooth ot off with a file wrapped in wet & dry paper if the defect is VERY shallow.

Alternatively a small deposit of steel braze or even silver solder may be a possibility ........ smoothed down flat after application.

I know how reluctant you will be to strip the motor and do it right but it may be worth the risk to try a "bodge-up" if you only want a short term fix and do not rely upon the car for daily transport ....

Also look at the stuff mentioned in the thread below "Stop Leak" the "Thermagasket" stuff may work.......

Bummer!

 

[nobody]

Gary I have no idea of what you have in the way of tools or equipment but that can be fixied as it sits with a oxy acytelene set and a high amp welder. Oh and alot of patience and skill

 

[RallyBob]

Gary, if you just need a stock low compression engine I have plenty of shortblocks you can have.

Bob

 

[Gary]

Thanks for the replys guys.

The engine came from a GT I scrapped several years ago. The P.O. told me it was "rebuilt". I pulled the oil pan to put new gaskets on and it looked real clean. The oil pump housing had no gouges in it and looked new. There were a couple of valve seal pieces in the base so I figured I'd replace the seals.

Not worth putting too much more effort into it now. At this point, I'll probably just pull the wagon's engine and put new seals in that. (120# compression, a little blow by on start up and after overnight parking, an oil puddle underneath)

 

[jerseyopel]

welding

Dave, if you throw high amperage into the block with the crank and bearings in it you risk a chance of welding the bearings with the ground current.Same thing with a transmission BTW.HTH Charlton

 

[nobody]

In all the high amp welds on Opels I've lost a cassette deck and a throtle cable. With the last turbo I got pretty good at fixing the ears on a sprint without removing it.