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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
I found a smiths vintage reproduction dash clock on a half price sale at "restorartion hardware".

I am trying to take out the instrument panel..this is my first time.

I think the first step is to remove the 4 bolts at "A"..then "B"

I have a manual that is a help..but..i am stuck ..here at "B"is my question:
How do I remove the ignition(white) and directional(black) wire set plugs? I have tried to pull them with my fingers with a pound or two of force....they are not letting go

thanks:confused:
 

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rust + magic = gold!
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169 Posts
The connector has two halves, and the "release flap" that you mention is actually for removing the wrong half. The flap allows the socket to be pushed into the fuseblock. Not what you need to do.

Just wiggle and pull on the outer most half, and it should come out. There are 6 spade connections within the plastic block and they are probably holding on tight!
 

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70's Opeler, back 4 more!
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398 Posts
Bucky,

If you are just trying to replace the clock, you don't need to unplug anything, except maybe the battery.

The steering column has the four bolts you show. Take those out.

The column will bend at a U-Joint and drop to the floor, out of the way nicely. Nothing has to be disconnected.

Then, remove the screws you see in the face of the dash. There might be two screws on the side, down low. There is another thread here that has some great documentation in the dash removal. Check out this thread for the dash. http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showth...&perpage=15&highlight=alternator&pagenumber=3

The dash panel can be pulled forward, gently. Watch the clips and wires at the top. They tend to hang up on the attaching hardward.

Your dash should lean forward plenty for you to get to the clock.

Note: the only thing in the dash that doesn't come with it is the heater slide knobs.

Chris
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
an opel education

chris:I was just about ready to call for advice on the dash.

You are right! ..I did not need to remove those sockets by the steering wheel..one would'nt come loose anyway.


I got the instrument panel out..I was in over my head.It was a breeze until I tried to put it back..the PO had glued the heater panel in two places with rubber cement and it fell apart in three pieces..(I guess that is the panel at ogts that sell for a hundred bucks or so..as a metal replacement.)

in addition...I think I broke off two plastic ears (that anchor the thumbnut) on the gauges on the way out..there is that metal tab at the top of the dash that scrapes the gauges on the way out.seems impossible to pass thru w/o bumping...

Here is the good news...I was able to epoxy all my broken plastic back together(2-3 hours of work).my clock looks good(no light tho) ..I sprayed the instrument panel with gloss black,I masked it,

my heater panel is solid..thank modern chemists for quick cure resin

It was about a 8- 10 hour job ..working on and off.

I removed the old clock works to create space for the new one..I soon figured out the original bezels are crimped and press fit.I removed the crimping with a dremel .To get the clock apart.

my new clock will now remove from the front...so I can change the battery,set time,or replace it...w/o having to open into the panel.

I swept the floor to find my last screw... and then everything fell into place.

wow..for me this was my limit..(.nothing compared to what I see
otheres on this site do)

all and all..it was on upgrade...and it was good experience ..

I learned a ton of opel knowledge..
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
quartz clock

my $10 clock stopped twice,the diameter was off about 1/4 inch too,

here is my latest try.its labeled as quartz,..so it should be a better clock..it was a clock ,unused on my shelf...all the cquartz clocks i could find on ebay were 2 in.

I think I have a perfect match..only problem is 1.5 volt
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
it works on the bench

its lighted,its quartz movt,it has the original looks,But time set is on back,battery is outboard 1.5 volt
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
resetting time 1.5 v outboard battery

I wont have to pull the dash to reset the time for daylight savings.
with the out board battery.. I will just unhook the battery and wait for the correct time to "happen".twice a day.It works for me.

remeber ....OGTS told me they dont service clocks anymore..you have to go to VDO direct..they have the #.

the old orignal VDO is so cool,but all the cogs/springs are so prone to age...the folks with the BMWs and Mercedes had the same problems..

quartz clock is working to the second...I don't know where to tell someone to buy works like mine as it was luck.What i do know...
it is hard ..maybe impossible to find a proper sized clock (12V to fit the opel gt..I looked real hard on ebay..I saw old bmw & Mercedes clocks..but most were broken also, rice burner clocks are all digital (w/o Hands.) :D
 

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Senior Contributor
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730 Posts
Bucky, try this with Radio Shack parts:
diode = 1N4004
+12-------------[ 10k res ]--------->|------>|------ GND

Clock+ between resistor and diode. Clock - at ground.
Try it on the bench first, the 10k res may need to go down some on the resistor value.
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
new clock is in

I put in a 1.5 v home clock works with an outboard battery....

remeber...car clocks are made to reset thru the front...i dont have
that option.

i always hated my cheap $10 clock w/o a light..size was wrong to boot.

I do like the outboard battery..i wont have to reset every time i unhook the power...the OPEL face looks right.

this project took a long time because it is so piece meal.

I put in an extra bulb..so it would be bright and for insurance ..if a bulb goes....

I dont want to pull the dash for a while...
 

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Pathologic Opeler
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1,960 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
1.5 volt clock works

if you need clock works..go to a craft store..in kansas city they are called "MICHAELS"...the arms push-on a plastic hub...this allows you to put the face of the OPEL VDO..on a modern quarz movement...you will have to cut the back out of metal cup to get the works spaced correctly with in the metal cup- housing...it is\time consuming...

clock works are $20....and will outperform the classic mechanical
versions that were so cool...sad..but true....my $20 clock has been accurate to the second ..looks opEL ORIGINAL NOW
 

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UngerDog
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1,333 Posts
12 volt to 1.5 drop for dummies needed.

I've done this clock conversion with a $2 clock ($1 for the clock, plus $1 for the shipping) from Ebay that came from China. With some minor modifications, I'm now able to adjust the time with the stock front twist knob. I would like to use the 12 volt stock red clock wire and drop the voltage to a 1.5 volt output. I could just use an adjustable DC car adapter, but I thought that it couldn't be that hard to drop the 12 volt red clock wire to 1.5. I've read about a LM-317 Adjustable Voltage Regulator from Radio Shack and using a series of Resistors to get to 1.5 volts. My attempts with using several 10K resistors only got it down to 7 volts. So, my question is ... how would you describe to an electronic dummy how to build a cheap and easy circuit to drop the 12 volts to 1.5 volts?
 

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UngerDog
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1,333 Posts
I had the resistors in a series. With 5, 10K Ohms resistors end to end off a 12 volt battery, I was able to measure 3.25 volts on my multimeter. However, I guess, there wasn't enough current to power the clock or anything else that used a single AA battery. Even with only 1, 10K Ohms resistor, off the + end of a 12 volt battery, I couldn't power a flashlight bulb. So, I might just use a dc adapter even though I wanted to make something a lot smaller.
 
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