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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After reading @zippy7575 's amazing write up on how he installed one into a GT I was confident I could find a way to get one into a Manta. They're basically the same right? Well... only sort of.

If you haven't read that thread, stop reading this and read this: How to install a 2005-10 Mustang T5 5-speed into an Opel GT @zippy7575 does an immaculate job laying out the parts, processes, and things you'll need to consider.

I took that advice and did mostly the same thing.

Step 1: Get a friend who likes getting dirty in junk yards. It's nice to talk to people while ripping stuff out of cars. We found this 2006 mustang at an LKQ in Sun Valley.

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Important tip: Bring 12 point box wrenches! If not you'll be buying the cheapest ones at a premium from the nice tool renter outside.

Removal is pretty straight forward. You will need to remove the whole unit (bell housing and all) to be able to remove the hydraulic throwout bearing retainer. Some bell housing bolts are much easier to get at while kneeling on the engine.

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Toss the shifter linkage and cross member.. you won't need them. But maybe consider keeping the trans bushing (more on that later)

Step 2: Take your MANTA bell housing and press out the center sleeve. It's important to use your MANTA bell housing. (I didn't notice a difference until after I mocked this all up in the car and someone posted a picture of them side by side.) The clutch fork placement is at a different angle. The GT bell will just make your life more difficult. What's pictured below is a GT bellhousing.

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Step 3: Buy the retainer sleeve mentioned in @zippy7575's thread. Ford Performance Part # M-7050-B.

There will be some work that needs to be done to it. Mainly shortening the length, drilling/slotting one of the holes to match the bolt pattern on the transmission, and honing it down to fit your desired throwout bearing. If you're using the stock open flywheel and clutch, follow Zippy's instructions.

For me, I'm using the lightweight flywheel from the group buy that Jordan put together a while back. This will utilize an s-10 pressure plate and throw out bearing. Stock on the left, custom on the right.


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Turning the OD down honestly take the longest time but the part isn't completely trued from factory. This is around where the final OD ended up for me, using the s-10 throwout bearing. Measure the ID of what you're going to use before you start lathing.

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STEP 4: Assemble what you can on the motor. It's crucial you make sure everything plays nice together. I thought I could get away with finding a cheap ford clutch, maybe I still can, but it seemed like the stack height of the pressure plate and bell housing wouldn't let them work together. Leading me to call California Custom Clutches and have a custom clutch made. It's pricey, but it works.

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
STEP 5: With A LOT of help from @Manta Rallier (seriously THANK YOU) I was able to give some preliminary dimensions to a machinist friend of mine. With that and the measurements of the s197 trans and the retainer sleeve, we were able to 3D print a test adapter plate.
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Step 6: Time to bolt it all together! You'll notice that this is still using the GT bell housing. This was before I knew they were different. (DO NOT USE THE GT BELL HOUSING)
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Step 7: TEST FIT!

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STEP 8: Buy a trans bushing and make a trans mount.

This was probably the most intense custom thing I had to do, but luckily I have a friend who's much more talented than I come and help. After reading Zippy's thread, I felt like it was just going to be less of a hassle to fabricate one than it would be to find something that works and convert it.

So we went to the autoparts store and bought a trans bushing for a late 80's s-10. It was around $9.00. (I'll find and post the part number next time I'm at the garage) It's important that we got this one since it ends up bolting right to the threaded boss on the rear of the transmission. You can see it in the second photo.

Important tip: try to only thread it in once. If you over tighten it, it will never line up again the same way. We had to take a flapper disc to the bottom of the trans to get it realigned before making the crossmember.

The transmount started as a flat piece of stock and we simply cut/bent/welded the main cross member shape to get it to bolt in. Then we notched the crossmember to fit around the transmission. Next we had to make a piece that came back, and dropped down to the trans bushing, weld on some captured nuts to take advantage of the mounting plate on the trans bushing. After that we simply added a few gussets to strengthen the whole piece and painted it. I'm really inexperienced in welding, but we tested the piece and it was able to whole both of us without issue (500+ Lbs), so I think it'll hold the trans just fine. One thing to note here, I did end up getting slightly longer bolts for the cross member to chassis mounting points since the new cross member is much thicker.



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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
STEP 9: Measure for a drive shaft. Have that driveshaft made.

I thought about finding the core parts in the junk yard like Zippy did, but experience has told me that it's just as cost effective to simply have one made. I didn't want to cut up my stock driveshaft just in case I need to swap back to the four speed for any reason. The only thing you need from the car is an opel rear yoke with u-joint. I contacted Gil and he put me on to his driveline shop (I want to say Driveline NW, seattle) but I could be wrong.

I'll take this part, and have a drive line shop make a custom shaft that goes from the s197s rear flange, to a slip yoke, to the opel rear yoke. I've taken the measurement 6 times but I'm going to wait until the transmission is finally in place with the metal adapter plate before I have it made. Measure 82 times, pay once.

Step 9b: Order a shifter.

Zippy did a fine job making one work with the top plate. I don't have those kind of skills. So I ordered one from Core Shifters, as mentioned in the other thread. It's pricey, and takes a while to get made, but it's such a nice piece I feel like it was worth it.

I ordered option K (for used with a 5-8" HURST stick), a hurst 7991 stuck and a generic white **** ball. You'll also need to specify "mount on Nissan bracket #4" to get the stick to fall in a place somewhat close to the stock location.

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As of right now I still need to do a few things.

  1. Have the adapter plate made in metal.
  2. Seal the back of the trans where the shifter linkage used to be
  3. slot the bearing retainer, seal, and mount it for the final time
  4. RTV the shifter base
  5. install trans for the final time
  6. measure for driveshaft (again)
  7. reinstall the sway bar and tighten all the suspension bolts while the car is under it's own weight.

If anyone ins interested in an adapter plate let me know. This would be for manta application only. We could do a small run probably to bring the cost down of anyone having to make just one. I'm not trying to make any money so it'll cost what it costs to produce.
 

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If anyone ins interested in an adapter plate let me know. This would be for manta application only. We could do a small run probably to bring the cost down of anyone having to make just one. I'm not trying to make any money so it'll cost what it costs to produce.
To expand on this, the GT transmission tilts @4 degrees compared to the Manta.
There was a design for the Manta/Kadett adapter plate made when I designed the original for the GT. Unfortunately my hard drive was wiped out and, although the files still exist, EVERY file recovered just has a number and no description. I'd have to go through thousands of files to find it.
Someday I will but not in the next few months.
 

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I would interested, depending on price.
I would also potentially be interested in a GT adapter as well. The reason I say that is if First Opel finds his files, perhaps the cost can be reduced by combining the two adapters into a larger job (or could a combined adapter be made?).
I know the issues First Opel had...I have no problem with someone making a little money on their efforts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
First opels is for a different t5 altogether. There'd be no cost benefit to adding it to this run.

But read the zippy thread if you’re looking for a gt plate solution. He mentions where you can order one.
 

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The GT GM-T5 adapter file might still exist easily where I had the adapters made. I only had three made because I was tight budgeted at the time.
I should give those guys a call and see if they still have my file.
I also designed the Mustang GT adapter but the drama behind that landed with the company, that made the adapter, declaring ownership of the files.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well be that as it may I know you didn’t design this one as this one is solely intended for manta use, the differences are more than a 4° tilt.

I worked on this for over a year with @mantarallier and a friend who isn’t involved in the opel world.

I know there has been drama around the work you did in the past but I think those conversations are probably best left for another thread.
 

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Well be that as it may I know you didn’t design this one as this one is solely intended for manta use, the differences are more than a 4° tilt.

I worked on this for over a year with @mantarallier and a friend who isn’t involved in the opel world.

I know there has been drama around the work you did in the past but I think those conversations are probably best left for another thread.
I agree and I commend you for designing your own adapter. As you know, it's a lot of mental work.
I would advise you to not "lend" out your design. That is all.

FWIW, I'm excited to see you doing this. I think offering to host a group buy is commendable. I know group buys are a bit of a challenge so whenever someone does one, I have much respect.
 

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Wasn't trying to stir things up.
With so many T5 adapter variations and threads, it's hard to keep track. I have read the zippy thread, but it's been awhile.
But, I have a Manta with a hotter than normal motor that would probably benefit from a T5, so I hope this effort bears some fruit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wasn't trying to stir things up.
With so many T5 adapter variations and threads, it's hard to keep track. I have read the zippy thread, but it's been awhile.
But, I have a Manta with a hotter than normal motor that would probably benefit from a T5, so I hope this effort bears some fruit.
I have a stock motor but I figured even with the development costs it was cheaper than a getrag unit. And then if anything goes wrong it’s another $200 junkyard trans away from fixing it.

I am serious about doing a small group buy. Prices obviously get better the more we make. I’m waiting to hear back from my friend on how much it costs for each additional plate
 

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BTW, based on Skippy's experience, I believe there's two different adapter thicknesses you could end up with.
I could be wrong but it's worth checking into.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
BTW, based on Skippy's experience, I believe there's two different adapter thicknesses you could end up with.
I could be wrong but it's worth checking into.
If you're using the s197 trans there really is only one thickness you can get.
I believe that confusion came from an earlier version of the transmission.
 

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Please excuse me for sounding a little dense but, in reading this you changed this from having a hydraulic clutch to the Opel's "manual" or mechanical type of clutch....is this correct?...just trying to clarify. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sort of. I retained the opel mechanical clutch fork system.

The mustang gt is a hydraulic system, but you need to remove the trans and bellhousing to remove that hydraulic throw out bearing
 

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[QUOTE="oemoilleaks, post:

If anyone ins interested in an adapter plate let me know. This would be for manta application only. We could do a small run probably to bring the cost down of anyone having to make just one. I'm not trying to make any money so it'll cost what it costs to produce.
[/QUOTE]
I am very interested in the 3D file for this adapter. I have a Manta that is an auto and am getting tired of its lethargic performance. I have a 300mm x 300mm x 305mm printer and would like to try fitting this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
[QUOTE="oemoilleaks, post:

If anyone ins interested in an adapter plate let me know. This would be for manta application only. We could do a small run probably to bring the cost down of anyone having to make just one. I'm not trying to make any money so it'll cost what it costs to produce.
I am very interested in the 3D file for this adapter. I have a Manta that is an auto and am getting tired of its lethargic performance. I have a 300mm x 300mm x 305mm printer and would like to try fitting this.
[/QUOTE]

Maybe I should have a couple 3D printed to allow people to test fit.. but then you'd have to have the trans ready to go in so that people aren't sitting on the plastic units, holding up the chain for others who are ready.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
BTW, based on Skippy's experience, I believe there's two different adapter thicknesses you could end up with.
I could be wrong but it's worth checking into.
The machined width is 1 3/16"
I'm going to double confirm this as soon as I get the revised CAD file.
 
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