[opelspyder]

How does this differ from the dealer add-on a/c?

It would be the same thing, as the dealer didn't seal up the vents in the cowl. Basically you have hot air still coming in through the cowl system that you cannot completely shut off with the foam cored vent flaps. He came up with permanently shutting them off, or Juan was at least the first I have heard of doing this and it makes sense

 

[blancojp (R.I.P.)]

How does this differ from the dealer add-on a/c?

In my opinion, the dealer add on unit was a band aid to resolve customer's request for A/C. The kit is actually the same for not only the Opel, but also the Vega and Pinto with different mounting brackets. You are looking at 1970s technology and besides it was not that hot back then. Today, you need to get as much out of your system as possible, due to the heat index increasing over the years.

There is an unrestricted path of outside air getting into the cabin; via a very large (4x12) slot which is over the existing heater core assembly. The side vents you can somewhat shut off but the other one you can't and it is wide open. Just look at an install on a 60's mustang, the kit comes with metal plates to cover the side outside vents.

It all depends where you live and how hot it gets. If you live in Phoenix and travel the expressway at a nominal speed, during rush hour in the summer, you will sweat inside the car:yup:

 

[opelbits]

Was that unrestricted path part of the flow thru type ventilation? What about the rear roof vents?

 

[heliman]

When I installed my Vintage Air system I mounted the heat and A/C unit in basically the stock location so I could take advantage of the existing outside air source. This also allowed me to keep my existing floor vents as well as use the flow thru venting system thru the heat & A/C unit which exits through the vents over the rear window for those not so hot days. But the two holes where the original dash vents went will need to be blocked off. Since I was making a new dash anyway I built in all the defroster and cabin vents so everything remains in dash. The only down side to this setup is that the Vintage Air unit won't clear the stock dash. However if you already had the car apart, it would be easy to do a little sheet metal work and move the unit further forward. You only need about 1.5" to make it all fit. Since I wanted to keep the body original, I chose not to do that and just made my new dash fit around it. The end result is a car with A/C that works great and looks like it belongs insted of like a Mickey Mouse add on.

 

[opelbits]

Which Vintage Air unit did you use? I had been planning on reusing the 'stock' location with the raised rear deck, but no console, just a directional vent where the console and the blower plenum would have met. The interior is so small, I'm not sure a big clunky (but fragile) console is necessary to move air 18". Or fabricate a console with a lower profile.

 

[Lindsay]

Attached pictures of Helimen dash.
We need him to sell Opel GT dashboards. :approve:

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/group-...ll-fit-original-heat-location.html#post265211

 

[heliman]

I used the Vintage Air mini

 

[blancojp (R.I.P.)]

When I installed my Vintage Air system.....
The end result is a car with A/C that works great and looks like it belongs insted of like a Mickey Mouse add on.

This is why I call it a band aid :yup:

 

[REALSTEEL]

battery tray

hey opel guy's
i just pulled the battery out of my 73 gt , reason being last owner
removed A/C condenser. well after removing battery i found it had a tray
spot welded to factory battery tray cross ways. so i removed it ...
pick a part 5.00 $ tray chop cut sheet metal screwed in just like the
ad on tray i removed. well i put condenser in it with new dryer last guy
cross threaded tubing so new tube end too....
after all is said and done now i don't have enough room because
the condenser takes up like 4'' of elbow room. the battery that was
in it is group 26 just like it calls for and it fits just fine in the factory
tray under rusted out ad on tray it also fits like a glove in ad on tray
so back to pick a part for Honda battery tray chop cut build. so i can
put i battery in it, that will make it past the condenser with out removing
the condenser .....is it the norm to pull condenser out to change the
battery??..because that is the only thing that makes sense. other than
down size tray and go with group 51 battery........

 

[Knorm65]

Yes you have to remove the condenser. I have an AC GT too and it is a little bit of a pain to change the battery!

 

[REALSTEEL]

battery tray chop cut for a/c car

This could be a long post, but I'll try to make it as short as possible for a start. There were 2 units installed in the GT, A GM unit and an ARA unit. They differed in where the compressor was mounted and the type of cowling used between the seats. Both had the condensor mounted in front of the radiator which caused the battery tray to be rotated 90 degrees and a hole had to be cut in the belly pan to remove and install the battery. Both had the cooling unit mounted behind the rear seats and a raised shelf was placed over the units. The GM used the rotary compressor mounted above the alternator, the ARA had the compressor mounted low on the right side of the engine and to the water pump. Both had lines running under the car, through the floor and in to the cooling unit and they both had two groove pulleys mounted on the crankshaft. The GM used a vacuum operated microswitch to turn the compressor on and off depending on engine vacuum. Those are the differences I'm aware of, I have/had a GM on my 72 GT, and when working it would throw ice cubes, figuratively speaking out the hole between the seats. It was missing the ducting between the seats and around the brake and gear shift. HTH. For a start.

hey opel guy's
i just pulled the battery out of my 73 gt , reason being last owner
removed A/C condenser. well after removing battery i found it had a tray
spot welded to factory battery tray cross ways. so i removed it ...
pick a part 5.00 $ tray chop cut sheet metal screwed in just like the
ad on tray i removed. well i put condenser in it with new dryer last guy
cross threaded tubing so new tube end too....
after all is said and done now i don't have enough room because
the condenser takes up like 4'' of elbow room. the battery that was
in it is group 26 just like it calls for and it fits just fine in the factory
tray under rusted out ad on tray it also fits like a glove in ad on tray
so back to pick a part for Honda battery tray chop cut build. so i can
put i battery in it, that will make it past the condenser with out removing
the condenser .....is it the norm to pull condenser out to change the
battery??..because that is the only thing that makes sense. other than
down size tray and go with group 51 battery........

 

[opelspyder]

The dealers cut and added a door way in the bottom of the belly pan to lower the battery out of the car. The battery tray was zip screwed into the original tray sideways due to condenser clearance.

 

[REALSTEEL]

A/c 1973 opel gt

I'm looking to install an a/c in my opel GT. I have the mechanical ability. I just don't have the parts I need and where to get them.
Thanks,
opel_nut

A/C ON THE 1973 OPEL GT

i have pic's of what it looks like. The a/c was non-op because 30 years ago
the battery went dead. well this a/c job didn't have a cut out to change battery
so smart guy pulls the condenser out to change battery. lines got crossed
so condenser was never reinstalled...until I came along. forget the cut out
go with honda battery done and done I put the old condenser back in it with
new dryer and 3 cans of r12 I just happened to be holding on to for the last
15 yr's .... frosty comes to mind

 

[P.J. Romano]

I have finished installation of modern A/C system in my GT few days ago, just in time for long drive to Carlisle. I tested it yesterday at 86F (yes even in Ontario, Canada we get hot days!). The A/C works great and with windows closed, the wind and exhaust noise is gone making it quite comfortable ride.

I used Sandon SD508 compressor and slim condenser with 2000 cfm electrical fan. I made brackets for the fan so that it can be quickly removed without use of tools which allows easy access to the battery.

Compressor took alternator's place and compact Denso alternator has been installed on the passenger side.

I am using double v-belt drive for the compressor and cog belt type for the alternator and water pump. Using separate drive for the compressor secures normal driveability of car in the case of A/C failure.

The A/C unit (evaporator) is installed under the rear deck. I choose Coldmaster unit with 3-speed fan.

 

[Lindsay]

Professional AC Installation. Excellent!
Would it have been possible to drive AC compressor with one V-belt?

 

[P.J. Romano]

Would it have been possible to drive AC compressor with one V-belt?

I think it would be possible to use just one V-belt but as the compressor came with double pulley, I put two belts but not too tight. Those modern compressors are quite efficient. When the engine is idling and I turn the A/C on it slows down just 200 rpm.

 

[SpringGT]

Professional AC Installation. Excellent!
Would it have been possible to drive AC compressor with one V-belt?

Yes, you can use only one belt, depending on how many degrees of belt contact you have on your particular mounting configuration. I have run a Sanden 508 for many years with one belt and although I can't see the precise contact point on bottom of the pulley, I appear to have 120-150 degrees of contact. Two belts would certainly give you some extra margin.

For those having trouble removing their battery on AC cars, when you install the unit or replace hoses, provide an extra foot of length on each condenser hose and make a loop in each one before attaching them to the condenser. Then, when it is time for a new battery, and using the slack provided by the loops, you can simply remove four condenser-mounting screws and swing the entire condenser up and out of the way. No need to break any hose connections or lose Freon.

 

[wrench459 (R.I.P.)]

Yep this is the way with 134a

The head pressures will go sky high(450psi+) without a high efficiency condenser and GOOD air flow.

 

[opelgtml]

I have finished installation of modern A/C system in my GT few days ago, just in time for long drive to Carlisle. I tested it yesterday at 86F (yes even in Ontario, Canada we get hot days!). The A/C works great and with windows closed, the wind and exhaust noise is gone making it quite comfortable ride.

I used Sandon SD508 compressor and slim condenser with 2000 cfm electrical fan. I made brackets for the fan so that it can be quickly removed without use of tools which allows easy access to the battery.

Compressor took alternator's place and compact Denso alternator has been installed on the passenger side.

I am using double v-belt drive for the compressor and cog belt type for the alternator and water pump. Using separate drive for the compressor secures normal driveability of car in the case of A/C failure.

The A/C unit (evaporator) is installed under the rear deck. I choose Coldmaster unit with 3-speed fan.

Can you tell me the exact condenser and alternator that you used?

 

[P.J. Romano]

Alternator is Denso 70A. There are many on Ebay. It comes with its own small diameter pulley; do not replace it with Opel pulley. Denso smaller pulley enables higher RPM, required by this compact size alternator.

Regarding condenser, I did not keep the purchase record but it was bought on Ebay by size. I tried to stay as close as possible to the Opel radiator size. It was tight fit and I had to relocate ports. They were oriented toward the side of the condenser where there is no space in narrow GT bay. I also had to trim the condenser lip to clear brake booster.