Opel GT Forum banner
21 - 40 of 55 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,136 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: Nitromancer

·
Registered
The Young One
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
Discussion Starter · #23 ·
You will NEVER regret installing a 4 speed manuel in your GT.

They are sooooo much fun!
How much money would you say it would cost to replace the seals in this 4 speed and get it working perfectly?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
6,218 Posts
You will NEVER regret installing a 4 speed manuel in your GT.
They are sooooo much fun!
...until you install a Getrag 5-speed, as the fun increases by the square of the "gears" (25 vs 16), and the reduced transmission noise, as well as reduced engine buzz (2850 rpm vs 3500 at 70 mph) is quite blissful!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nitromancer

·
UngerDog
Joined
·
1,343 Posts
The front seal, rear seal, and shifter shaft seal along with the gasket for the trans to the bellhousing and the pan gasket will run in the $60 range. If you want to go ahead and install a new clutch kit, that will cost an additional $135. However, you may not know for sure that you have a good transmission until you put everything back together and run the car.
 

·
Registered
The Young One
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The front seal, rear seal, and shifter shaft seal along with the gasket for the trans to the bellhousing and the pan gasket will run in the $60 range. If you want to go ahead and install a new clutch kit, that will cost an additional $135. However, you may not know for sure that you have a good transmission until you put everything back together and run the car.
Those prices aren't horrible. The guy said the trans had no problems but you never know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Explain to him that you can find GT 4 speeds for $100. But, it wouldn't make sense for this one with the additional shipping cost. View attachment 444982
Maybe he will take the $200 offer or meet you halfway at $250.
Sam, This may look good but half of the parts for a conversion are missing, this is a list of parts for a conversion.


Transmission with GT Shifter Linkage.
Transmission bolts (3 are 1 5/8” long, and 1 is short 1 1/4” long) to the Bellhousing
Drive Shaft and internal thrust spring (shaft is thinner than the automatic shaft)
Transmission Rubber Mount and 2x (8mm allen-head) attaching bolts
Transmission Mount Bracket (longer than automatic trans bracket) & 2x (13mm) bolts
Transmission Shifter, and smooth metal connector pin with "C" clip
Shift Boot
Brake Pedal with Rubber Cover
Clutch Pedal
Pedal Attaching Bolt to interior firewall (longer than automatic transmission bolt)
Throttle Linkage Rod to Accelerator Pedal (doesn't have external spring)
Bellhousing and 6x (15mm head) bolts to engine block
Bellhousing to Transmission Paper Gasket (a critical part)
Bellhousing lower dirt shield metal plate, with 6 13mm bolts
Bellhousing Ball Stud
Bellhousing Front Cup Seal
Clutch Arm
Clutch Arm Rubber Boot
Clutch Release ("Throw Out") Bearing
Clutch Bearing Release Sleeve
Clutch Disc
Clutch Pressure Plate, with 4x 13mm head bolts to flywheel)
Clutch Cable
Clutch Cable Hardware at Firewall: Metal Sleeve (size varies with GT vs. Manta),
Clutch Arm Spring (4 1/2" long on 1969-70 GT's, 10 1/2" long on later GT's)
Metal Washers, Rubber Bushings, E-Clip
(Note: Add a 1” diameter hose clamp, on clutch cable behind the E-Clip, for extra support)
Flywheel, with 6 17mm bolts
Gear Oil (suggest 85-90W, 2 1/2 pints; Can use 140W if transmission is worn or noisy)
Speedometer W=897 (If transmission is "early style" 1968-70 GT) or W=1062 (later GT)
Transmission Reverse Switch (Early style on driver's side, Later style on rear of trans.)
Rubber Cap on Vacuum Fitting (cap port on intake manifold for automatic trans vacuum)
There are a number of other items that aren't on the list, plus with the trans out it may be wise to change the rear main seal.

This will give you an idea of the parts you will need. When I sell a set-up it looks something like this, view pic.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
763 Posts
There is no question that a parts car is the way to go if you are converting to a 4 speed. Still, using that ad as a bargaining chip isn't a bad idea.

I have made MUCH dumber purchases; more than I care to admit.
 

·
Registered
The Young One
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Sam, This may look good but half of the parts for a conversion are missing, this is a list of parts for a conversion.


Transmission with GT Shifter Linkage.
Transmission bolts (3 are 1 5/8” long, and 1 is short 1 1/4” long) to the Bellhousing
Drive Shaft and internal thrust spring (shaft is thinner than the automatic shaft)
Transmission Rubber Mount and 2x (8mm allen-head) attaching bolts
Transmission Mount Bracket (longer than automatic trans bracket) & 2x (13mm) bolts
Transmission Shifter, and smooth metal connector pin with "C" clip
Shift Boot
Brake Pedal with Rubber Cover
Clutch Pedal
Pedal Attaching Bolt to interior firewall (longer than automatic transmission bolt)
Throttle Linkage Rod to Accelerator Pedal (doesn't have external spring)
Bellhousing and 6x (15mm head) bolts to engine block
Bellhousing to Transmission Paper Gasket (a critical part)
Bellhousing lower dirt shield metal plate, with 6 13mm bolts
Bellhousing Ball Stud
Bellhousing Front Cup Seal
Clutch Arm
Clutch Arm Rubber Boot
Clutch Release ("Throw Out") Bearing
Clutch Bearing Release Sleeve
Clutch Disc
Clutch Pressure Plate, with 4x 13mm head bolts to flywheel)
Clutch Cable
Clutch Cable Hardware at Firewall: Metal Sleeve (size varies with GT vs. Manta),
Clutch Arm Spring (4 1/2" long on 1969-70 GT's, 10 1/2" long on later GT's)
Metal Washers, Rubber Bushings, E-Clip
(Note: Add a 1” diameter hose clamp, on clutch cable behind the E-Clip, for extra support)
Flywheel, with 6 17mm bolts
Gear Oil (suggest 85-90W, 2 1/2 pints; Can use 140W if transmission is worn or noisy)
Speedometer W=897 (If transmission is "early style" 1968-70 GT) or W=1062 (later GT)
Transmission Reverse Switch (Early style on driver's side, Later style on rear of trans.)
Rubber Cap on Vacuum Fitting (cap port on intake manifold for automatic trans vacuum)
There are a number of other items that aren't on the list, plus with the trans out it may be wise to change the rear main seal.

This will give you an idea of the parts you will need. When I sell a set-up it looks something like this, view pic.
Thanks a bunch! That will definently help some day when I do a swap. Also how much do you sell on of these swaps for?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nitromancer

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Thanks a bunch! That will definently help some day when I do a swap. Also how much do you sell on of these swaps for?
Let's put it this way, when you look at the list of parts to do a conversion, there are almost 30 different items needed and if you were to pay $10 per item, that alone would be almost $300. Let's put $100 for gas in perspective, I sent a 10 bolt head to Ga. and the shipping cost was over $100. Recently a guy drove down from Canada looking for the parts to do a conversion because of the cost and availability up there. The parts you seek will not become more available nor less expensive for a conversion. But on the other hand, I've suggested to you, that with limited finances, work on the essentials for a safe reliable car and enjoy what you have and when you have the finances for a restored car or to restore a rust-free one, go for it. One other consideration, is that In the past I've seen people do a conversion, auto to stick and damage the drivetrain due to revving the engine at higher RPM's than those of the automatic. I would trust your grandfather's instincts and go with them because there is no substitute for experience and practicality even though you may not see it that way. For what it's worth, just my two cents and good luck either way.
 

·
Registered
The Young One
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Let's put it this way, when you look at the list of parts to do a conversion, there are almost 30 different items needed and if you were to pay $10 per item, that alone would be almost $300. Let's put $100 for gas in perspective, I sent a 10 bolt head to Ga. and the shipping cost was over $100. Recently a guy drove down from Canada looking for the parts to do a conversion because of the cost and availability up there. The parts you seek will not become more available nor less expensive for a conversion. But on the other hand, I've suggested to you, that with limited finances, work on the essentials for a safe reliable car and enjoy what you have and when you have the finances for a restored car or to restore a rust-free one, go for it. One other consideration, is that In the past I've seen people do a conversion, auto to stick and damage the drivetrain due to revving the engine at higher RPM's than those of the automatic. I would trust your grandfather's instincts and go with them because there is no substitute for experience and practicality even though you may not see it that way. For what it's worth, just my two cents and good luck either way.
If I buy This GT it will be a while till I could do the swap anyways. It would probably be at least a year since I have a bunch of other stuff to get done on the GT before that. My grandpa has manuals in all his cars and it just seems so much more fun.
 

·
Opeler
Joined
·
1,369 Posts
I say you pass on this, and without a 2nd thought. The car looks to be a mess. And if you’re only wanting it for the 4-speed, keep the 300 in your pocket and wait for a guy to upgrade to a Getrag 5 speed and buy a solid, known-condition 4 speed from him. I think that your 300 could go a lot further buying something quality instead of whatever this one might be.

However, if you want to spend 300 to tear down a car, call it a learning experience and then hope to part it out (if there are several useable parts from it) then go for it. But used parts are available from many people and you might end up being more in the hole than you think you’re going to be after all this. Plus have the remaining hunk of junk to get rid of still.
 

·
Registered
The Young One
Joined
·
1,207 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
A guy from my church who gave me a bunch of opel parts awhile back has an afla romeo 2.0L engine. He says that he had this engine and trans already to bolt in the car but he had to sell it since he bought a corvette. He says it could be put in a GT and he kept all the parts for doing it. It would be pretty cool to do it to this GT. I know that it would cost a lot of money but it would be a really fun project. I don't know if he would want anything for it(since all the other opel parts I got from him were free). It is just an idea and would be very unique. What do you guys think.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
3,352 Posts
A guy from my church who gave me a bunch of opel parts awhile back has an afla romeo 2.0L engine. He says that he had this engine and trans already to bolt in the car but he had to sell it since he bought a corvette. He says it could be put in a GT and he kept all the parts for doing it. It would be pretty cool to do it to this GT. I know that it would cost a lot of money but it would be a really fun project. I don't know if he would want anything for it(since all the other opel parts I got from him were free). It is just an idea and would be very unique. What do you guys think.
Challenging engine swap. Take a look here. 2 litre Alfa Romeo Engine Install
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,203 Posts
Sooner or later you have to get a “parts car” as Opelmiester points out picking up the parts individually adds up in a hurry. Back in the 90’sI drove by and had my eye on a 1970 GT automatic with A/C for at least 5 years. It was abandoned sitting in the parking lot of a no frills apartment complex. I made the guy an offer for a couple hundred bucks and towed it to a garage I had rented out.

I was so glad I bought it back then it was a good learning experience. If you go after this one try to talk them down if you can. I’d imagine that shouldn’t be too difficult. It would be a shame for the whole car to go to the crusher.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
Ok guys I just talked to my Grandpa and he said we might be able to get this GT next Friday.
Good!! I was very tempted to shout BUY THE DANG THING. Now i dont have to... :p
Having a parts car comes in handy. Especially since you want to convert yours to a manual.. plus those stupid little parts you may need down the road.
 

·
Opeler
Joined
·
739 Posts
When you lose a bolt or need a part in a pinch, having a parts car to rob one off of is the best feeling.

When I got out of high school, I stripped 3-4 GT's for parts. Fast forward almost 20 years, now the loft of my barn is plum full of parts that Ill likely never use.

Let me know if your looking for anything specific. I may have it.

David
 

·
Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
Joined
·
3,247 Posts
What about not trying to restore the GT you have? Wait till you are older and buy a GT that has a good body and a manual trans. Restore that instead. Let this GT serve as your fun for now. Body work is not easy and if you’re chasing rust on your car, you could find out that the body has too much rust.

Even if you do end up restoring and converting your GT, you don’t have the funds to really pursue that right now. I’d focus on the cheaper stuff. Rebuild the engine and put money into improving it. Then the engine is done when you restore the car or put it into a better car.

Just something to think about.
 
21 - 40 of 55 Posts
Top