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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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And all of this discussion about what model year various parts are from is utterly meaningless and wouldn't affect it's value one bit.
Gordon, you’re wrong on this bit. He claimed this was a 1968 GT. If that was in fact true, it would impact its value. That would actually make this car worth restoring to factory condition, despite the rust. It would be a pretty rare GT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
That’s not a 68. It has none of the 1968 parts. The brake control rod support is the wrong color, the hood hinges are wrong, the windows are wrong, the rear panel is wrong.
This is an early 71 or late 70 with a probably a standard 1.9L Delta head

If you can take a photo under the valve cover I can tell you what head is in it. You cannot tell if it’s a 68 head from the outside.
77242181 is this vin yall tell me. What it is. Thanks .
This is a late 1970 Opel GT. The license plate dent on the rear panel happened sometime during 1969. The Buckskin interior didn't come out till 1970. The quarter windows pop out, which means 1971 model changes. The side badges still being there tells me late 1970 because Opel stopped putting them on in 1971. So, it's not a super rare 1968. Given the amount of rust, this is either a donor car or it will take a lot of work to save it, or it becomes a drag car. Value would be somewhere around $300-400.

If Pobyboy disagrees, he is welcome to post the VIN on here and we can tell him exactly what year it is. With a close up of the front of the engine / cylinder head, we can also tell if it might be a high output engine. If it's a 10 bolt cylinder head, it probably is. If it's a 12 bolt head, then it isn't. I really don't think it is a high output engine however and in this condition, it doesn't matter. The engine and trans isn't worth anymore than the whole car in this situation.

I'm not trying to be mean if I'm coming off that way. I'm just being honest and getting to the facts which have been lacking so far.
Well that's very convenient because that's exactly what I'm about to do is make a dragster out of it all I want to know is if anyone wants or needs any parts off of it . I thank you for letting me know what it is . I was told wrong i guess .
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Wow thats bad ass looking i will give you that . Is it yours ?
And all of this discussion about what model year various parts are from is utterly meaningless and wouldn't affect it's value one bit. The only thing that matters is how rust and dent free the body is.

And since you're planning on chopping it up to fit the engine, replacing the entire drivetrain and suspension, tubbing out the rear wheel wells, roll bars, toggle switches, maybe a parachute, etc., none of this talk makes any difference at all. Dragster converted GT's, which are a dime a dozen, basically aren't worth a dime. Unless you do an incredibly good and expensive job like this:

View attachment 438863 View attachment 438864 View attachment 438865 View attachment 438866
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Yes
The speedo number has to do with gear ratios. The VIN is on the tag as mentioned above me, by the engine bay. It can also be found on the driver side door sticker and a metal tag riveted to the dash on the driver's side.

Chances are, whatever the seller told you about this car is a bunch of crap. You're more than welcome to ask us questions about your car. If you really want to build a dragster out of it, I hope you can weld and can spend a decent amount of money on this. If someone sold you on the idea of making a cheap and fast drag car, they lied to you. You'll have to fabricate an entire tube chassis for starters, and then put the GT body as a skin over it. One of our members has built a really good dragster and he says he has spent six figures building it, but I believe that includes paying someone to fabricate the tube chassis.
Yes we will have to make some changes. But we not going as far as he did . We like to make it not look fast .
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
And all of this discussion about what model year various parts are from is utterly meaningless and wouldn't affect it's value one bit. The only thing that matters is how rust and dent free the body is.

And since you're planning on chopping it up to fit the engine, replacing the entire drivetrain and suspension, tubbing out the rear wheel wells, roll bars, toggle switches, maybe a parachute, etc., none of this talk makes any difference at all. Dragster converted GT's, which are a dime a dozen, basically aren't worth a dime. Unless you do an incredibly good and expensive job like this:

View attachment 438863 View attachment 438864 View attachment 438865 View attachment 438866
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Land vehicle

This is our other car . Very fast. .
 

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UngerDog
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77242181 is this vin yall tell me. What it is. Thanks .
The early 1970 GTs would start with 94-1888188. The VIN Code for the 1971 year starts with 77-2265862 VIN codes. So, your GT is most likely a late1970. But, if you want to know what motor is in it, you'll need to find the stamped numbers on the drivers side block tab. And, then the head could have been replaced from something else.
 

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Well said Gordan, and to add to what he said. Most people start to convert their cars and when they finally realize what a moneypit it has become, they quit. And another Gt bites the dust. Good luck and remember, post pictures. We like pictures.
 

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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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That VIN, 77 242181, is a 1971 model year VIN. If the engine has two bolts at the front of the cylinder head, then it's a 12 bolt cylinder head. Would be a low compression engine for 1971. When you do work on the body to convert it to a dragster, just be aware that the joints are filled with lead. Lead was used a lot back then to fill in the joints on unibody cars. Using the GT body as a shell over a tube chassis will be your easiest way to create a good and safe dragster. You can then use whatever suspension, engine, transmission, axle, differential, etc that you want. If you search dragster on the forum, you should find some threads on it.

 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I agree. I totally messed up on what number is higher (77-2265862 or 77-242181). And, I wasn't even high. The higher number after the 77- is a later chassis #. And, the VINs changing from 94-XXXXXX to any 77-XXXXXX started in 1971. You do have '70 style wheels though.
Thank you all for your help on finding out what year it is.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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The only way a 1968 GT is worth more money than any other GT is if it has it's split bumper in perfect condition, all the other '68 parts intact, and the car in perfect, never restored/rust repaired/low mileage/everything working great condition. Basically a museum piece that you should never drive.

The dragster pics are of a car owned by Earl Metzler.
 

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Detritus Maximus
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Yes

Yes we will have to make some changes. But we not going as far as he did . We like to make it not look fast .
What others have said about the nobody not being strong enough for serious power is totally true. There are MANY stalled v8 projects out there and they come up fairly cheap from time to time, but there have been some successes.
One of the best, in my opinion*, is the Katrina GT....


*You know what they say, "opinions are like assholes...eventually they need to be checked by a professional".
 
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